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Old 11-30-2008, 08:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tippmann 98 Selective Fire?

Reading about the Factory F/A started to make me think about how to modify a 98 for selective fire operation. I remember the old (was it the tooth pick mod?) trick to make the 98 fire full auto and how the cyclic rate was too high for any feed system. Well enter a F/A style buffer-sear to slow the hammer's forward movement down, thereby slowing the cyclic rate down. Easy enough. Now the selective fire part has me stumped. Is it as simple as having a pin that can slide in and out of the sear's pivot pin slot? Would this allow the sear to catch the hammer when the trigger is released?

I really wish I had my 98 with me and the time/tools to try this out. This would make an awesome Tippmann sleeper. Throw a cyclone on there and no worries about batteries or finding a sweet spot, just pull the trigger and let it rip.
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Old 11-30-2008, 08:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Lots of problems with that scenerio.

The Tippmann F/A used a fairly complex hydraulic system to slow the cycle down enough for its feeder to handle. It barely worked on the F/A, so its hard to imagine how well a rigged system would work on a Tippmann 98.

The select-fire mod itself is not too hard. I made one a while ago for a Stingray using a flat bar sitting in the slipsear. You would turn it to restrict the slipsear movement, thus making it F/A, then turn it back to allow movement, making it semiauto.

But again, making the fullauto mode feed is the hard part. In short, there is no easy way. A QLoader will not feed that since the Tippmann will be firing at 40+ cps.

There are complex solutions, like Hellbores pneumatic machine, or adapting an E-Grip, or E-Bolt style system.

Plus, most fields do not allow F/A anyway.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I probably would never play with it anyways. I was just thinking of doing it as a 'proof of concept', the idea being why would you have to add an e grip or rt when tippmanns have full auto almost built in. I kind of figured the F/A style buffer-sear would be hard to get right and probably cause way too much wear. It will probably never come to anything, anyways, since I really won't have access to any but the most basic tools for a long time.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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you could just use a 2 way pneumatic cylinder on it, than put athis valve between the 2 ports (don't know the correct english name) i think its called a speed controle valve


so you can change the cycelings speed with just redusing the speed of the returnstroke.

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Old 12-01-2008, 10:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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He was trying to think of a way to make a Tippmann full/auto without using pneumatics, or electronics.

AKA the "Holy Grail".

I think everyone in paintball has wondered the same thing- It is SO EASY to make a blowback cycle full/auto. Really takes no parts, and no time. At least once a week you will see a "Greatest Mod ever" post on PBN where some kid discoveres the F/A mod, as if he was the first to figure it out.

Then comes the hard part- The gun cycles at 40cps. Complete cycles, but nothing feeds that fast consistently. No, not even the QLoader. It is actually extremely hard to slow down that cycle speed to a managable level (ie 10cps), while still allowing the gun to function.

I know I've tried many different contraptions over the years, from levers, to lengthened cycles, etc.

The only success I've had was adding a DC motor to my blowback back in 1995. Worked, but not really any better then just sticking a power drill, with a cam, onto the trigger.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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aha ok. well i'm thinking of building this.
damn... i have to many project thoughts....
i want to make a realy custom trillogy pump
stacked tupe 98,
closed bolt e-bolt tippy (just for the giggles)
e-bolt that looks like its just a normal (rental) 98 until you shoot xD
paintball rc tank (going to make this on school xD with a project wich we can design, build, make, damage, all by ourselfs)
homemade cocker with a carbon fiber body (stainless steal innersleevs an stuff, only a carbon fiber cover)
mech ion,
double barrel ion,
homemade pgp,
homemade semi pgp

damn... and i can go on for a long time, i don't even own a marker
but i do own a lathe and mill

gr
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Old 12-01-2008, 12:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thats a mighty fine list there.

Not sure about the stacked-tube 98 though it does remind me about an idea I had 15 years ago-

Take an inline blowback, and plug the forward breech so the blast goes up the feedport. Then place a 2nd breach on top of the gun, but BACKWARDS. The goal, being, for an extremely short, almost bullpup setup.

Obviously, the hammer and bolt could not work like a traditional stacked-tube, so my thought was to attach the barrel, instead, to the hammer, for a reticulated style feed. (ie splastmaster). or a trapdoor hooked to hammer, or if all else fails, a seperate ram for the bolt, but in my head, I still wanted it to run a siphon.

The trigger system, though, would be the hard part. This idea predates electros, so I was thinking of a reversed linkage system. However, it would be trivial today with modern electro grips.

So if you get really, really bored, you could try that idea!
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Why not cut notches out of the sides of the 98 hammer, and matching ones in the receiver walls to use a roller-locking or -delayed system like the Cz-52, MG-42, and H&K guns use?


Blue circles are the locking pins (cams). When the hammer is forward, its outer shell (grey) is pulled along with the inner (green) section, which is pushed forward by the drive spring (red). The locking cams are pushed into recesses in the receiver walls here (not shown). As blowback gas is vented against the hammer face, the outer section is held in place by the locking cams, but the inner part is pushed back. This lets the locking cams fall inward as the outer section begins to move rearward. A ridge on the inner section cam recess tries to push the cam out, but since there's no receiver recess to drop into, it simply rides against the receiver wall and pulls the outer hammer shell backwards with it. The front bolt and linkage arm fit into the outer hammer shell like normal, as does the sear. The front part of the inner hammer section (light green) threads onto the rear half (dark green).
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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the stacked tube idee was besed of a noob question on pbn of someone. (some other idees came to me in the same way:P) that asked id. a lot op people say it cant, but i cant figure out why? i think that there are a lot of non machinist on pbn (and other forums):P that have non technical view. also i realy hate the question why.... BECAUSE WE CAN AND SHOW ALL THE GUYS THAT SAY IT CANT BE DONE THAT THEY ARE STUPID

i'm looking for an internship at a airsmith, but i think i would be taken more serious if i can show them what i can do. so thats why i want to do it (and i think i might realy like it..)

but back on toptic.....
alsmost everything is posible

oh btw post above:
i don't get it... but thats because my english sucks

Last edited by taz22; 12-01-2008 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom63 View Post
Why not cut notches out of the sides of the 98 hammer, and matching ones in the receiver walls to use a roller-locking or -delayed system like the Cz-52, MG-42, and H&K guns use?
Thats an interesting idea, though with those firearms, there is an large excess of pressure to play with. With paintball guns, you have much less to work with, and if a mod like this decreases effeciency by 50%, it may be hard to use in a game situation.

Maybe a similar version, but have the locking pins work in reverse, so that they slip into the groove while the hammer is fully open, slowing down the cycle while the operation is not likely to effect the force in which it hits the poppet?
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