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Old 11-06-2006, 07:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Mini/Midget Questions

I just recently halfblocked an old 99 cocker body last week for a custom sniper project, and was wondering the details of mini'ing and midgeting the body. I just wondered if anything was required other than the obvious, if someone could post some info about the midgeting process, as well as anything i should know about mini'ing the body then it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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To the best of my knowledge, it's just a matter of lopping off the appropriate amount of material from the front and then re-threading for the front-block screw. Just be careful to tap the threads at an exact 90 degree angle or you won't get the front block (or pump guide, if that's your thing) to line up right. Also, realize that you're going to lose some valve chamber volume, so if you have an ultra-low-pressure valve, you might need to get a "volumizer"-type front block screw to make up the lost space. Alternately, a gas-through grip or really high-flow reg should help.

-Chad
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i knew that much about the mini part just wasnt sure if there was something else i needed to know, the 90 degrees is no problem, i indicate the machine and vice before each time i work on it
thanks for the input
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Typically they are cut almost flush with the top portion where the barrel screws in leaving about an 1/8".

-Jake
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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ya, i was going leave 1/8" , does anybody know anything about midgeting?
thanks for the help, i will update w/ pics once i finish all the milling
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintlad88 View Post
does anybody know anything about midgeting?
This is actually the first time I've seen or heard this term in relation to Autocockers, so I'm not sure what you mean. I mean, cutting the front to mini-length and then half-blocking the back is about as "midgety" as you can get without a custom valvetrain. I suppose with an MQ valve (which, I believe does away with the hammer and springs) and an e-frame of some kind, you could lop off another 3/4" or so from the back (cut it just behind the rear grip screw hole). That would make for one itty-bitty 'Cocker.
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Old 11-06-2006, 04:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i have learned that "midgeting" is cutting the rear of the gun at the ivg area, thanks to all who posted
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I own a "mini-midget" sniper. It's built on a pre-97 body. And actually, it's a bit of a pain in the ***. Since the lower tube is shorter in the "guts" section, the original sheridan-style internals were cut in order to fit into the extra-small space. This makes replacing the internals with a nelson kit a very large problem. (Tried it with a rex kit, and found out that it wouldn't work at all. The kit barely bolted in, and the hammer couldn't slide far enough to catch the sear.) The sheridan springing combined with the shorter spring length makes for a mighty stiff pull - especially when compared to a modern, nelson sprung, full size gun.

If you dead set on "midgeting", be aware of this problem. If you're using an IVG setup I'd assume it'd be a bit easier to accomplish than my situation - aside from re-threading for the IVG and possibly cutting springs to length if necessary. If you plan to use a pre-IVG velocity adjuster, however, I'd somewhat advise against "midgeting" the gun. The slightly shorter body and "super-cool-custom-cut" thing is cool, but it does complicate things.

Here's a couple pics of my gun:


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