Universal T-boarded Threshold... Pics inside

93civiccpe · 05-02-2008, 12:08 PM

Hello Everyone,
I have a threshold that I picked up as a backup/loaner that has really impressed me. My only complaint is that I have never liked the feel of the optical triggerswitch. So when I saw the new Scenario Dreams t-board was out I decided to have a little fun. Here's the process:

1>First, I cut out a small piece of PCB board in the shape of the original board. This was for mounting the trigger microswitch and a power button. (I will note that the t-board comes with a dual button membrane pad, and a different option could be to stick the membrane pad on the bottom rear of the triggerframe and mount the colored LED in the previous power button hole. Due to the fact that I do not like membrane pads, I just used a simple pushbutton from radioshack). Anyways, here's the initial setup:

2> Now one of my goals was to not make any un-reversable modifications as I would like to be able to put it back to stock if it was ever necessary. So my choice was to mount the microswitch high enough so that the optical fang would trigger it, or drill/tap a hole at the top of the microswitch to put a set-screw in. Personally, I like the adjustability of a setscrew so I went with that option, plus it's high enough that if I put it back to stock it doesn't matter anyways.. it's just an extra hole. (As you can see, I got a little close to the outer wall of the trigger so it made a wonderful pattern in the anno.. nothing to worry about though).

3> So then comes the wiring and soldering. Being my first time using a universal t-board I decided to just cut the long harness leads in half and go with it. In the end, I have a lot of wires that are longer than they need to be, but they still can easily be tucked away with some small wire-ties. If I were to do it again I'd cut out some of the slack for a cleaner install.

4> Powering it up and making sure everything works. (I did find one mistake in the instructions that I'm sending to Damon). Powered up fine.. everything works and clicks.

5> Checking the "laser eyes"... I chose orange as they match the gun. Very bright.. not a necessary addition but nice to have I guess.

6> And finally, I took this picture to show how small the board is, and yes that tiny board in red shrinkwrap is the entire board.. pretty insane:

I will be putting together a few more pictures over the weekend.. one of everything tucked in neatly into the triggerframe, and maybe even a video of it firing off the deck. It got too late last night and I like my sleep. All-in-all it was a fun little project that didn't take too long to do. I still want to water-proof some of soldered connections & etc, so completing it will be my goal this evening.

My initial impressions:
-This board is quick, and allows the adjustibility that I've been desiring. I have wanted to tinker with the dwell & etc and this give me the chance.
-It has a first shot dwell setting to allow you to up the dwell on the first shot if it's been sitting for a while in order to prevent first shot drop off.. very nice to have.
-With the trigger and just the microswitch (no spring or magnets), the trigger is very light and snappy, exactly what I was looking for.

secretweaponevan · 05-07-2008, 12:53 PM

Very ambitious project and good work!

TastePAINt88 · 05-14-2008, 10:56 PM

Many people have been looking for the board solution not provided for DP guns by any manufacturers. T board is a great idea though.

pump · 05-15-2008, 01:58 AM

so many wires..............why

93civiccpe · 05-16-2008, 12:04 AM

it looks like a good bit more wires because typically the microswitch is soldered into a board, so there's 2 extra wires. You have 4 eye wires. You have 2 solenoid wires. 2 wires for the 9 volt connector. 2 wires for the power switch. And 2 wires for the eye on/off membrane function. None the less, when the wires are trimmed up it looks a lot nicer.

I'm going to try to get updated pictures and some videos here soon. The board and code has been great so far.. very fast and easy to program.

TastePAINt88 · 05-16-2008, 02:02 PM

Roughly how long has it taken you to get the new board installed and set up? A few hours?

05-02-2008, 12:08 PM	#1 (permalink)
93civiccpe MCB Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 256	Universal T-boarded Threshold... Pics inside Hello Everyone, I have a threshold that I picked up as a backup/loaner that has really impressed me. My only complaint is that I have never liked the feel of the optical triggerswitch. So when I saw the new Scenario Dreams t-board was out I decided to have a little fun. Here's the process: 1>First, I cut out a small piece of PCB board in the shape of the original board. This was for mounting the trigger microswitch and a power button. (I will note that the t-board comes with a dual button membrane pad, and a different option could be to stick the membrane pad on the bottom rear of the triggerframe and mount the colored LED in the previous power button hole. Due to the fact that I do not like membrane pads, I just used a simple pushbutton from radioshack). Anyways, here's the initial setup: 2> Now one of my goals was to not make any un-reversable modifications as I would like to be able to put it back to stock if it was ever necessary. So my choice was to mount the microswitch high enough so that the optical fang would trigger it, or drill/tap a hole at the top of the microswitch to put a set-screw in. Personally, I like the adjustability of a setscrew so I went with that option, plus it's high enough that if I put it back to stock it doesn't matter anyways.. it's just an extra hole. (As you can see, I got a little close to the outer wall of the trigger so it made a wonderful pattern in the anno.. nothing to worry about though). 3> So then comes the wiring and soldering. Being my first time using a universal t-board I decided to just cut the long harness leads in half and go with it. In the end, I have a lot of wires that are longer than they need to be, but they still can easily be tucked away with some small wire-ties. If I were to do it again I'd cut out some of the slack for a cleaner install. 4> Powering it up and making sure everything works. (I did find one mistake in the instructions that I'm sending to Damon). Powered up fine.. everything works and clicks. 5> Checking the "laser eyes"... I chose orange as they match the gun. Very bright.. not a necessary addition but nice to have I guess. 6> And finally, I took this picture to show how small the board is, and yes that tiny board in red shrinkwrap is the entire board.. pretty insane: I will be putting together a few more pictures over the weekend.. one of everything tucked in neatly into the triggerframe, and maybe even a video of it firing off the deck. It got too late last night and I like my sleep. All-in-all it was a fun little project that didn't take too long to do. I still want to water-proof some of soldered connections & etc, so completing it will be my goal this evening. My initial impressions: -This board is quick, and allows the adjustibility that I've been desiring. I have wanted to tinker with the dwell & etc and this give me the chance. -It has a first shot dwell setting to allow you to up the dwell on the first shot if it's been sitting for a while in order to prevent first shot drop off.. very nice to have. -With the trigger and just the microswitch (no spring or magnets), the trigger is very light and snappy, exactly what I was looking for.

05-14-2008, 10:56 PM	#3 (permalink)
TastePAINt88 Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 6	Many people have been looking for the board solution not provided for DP guns by any manufacturers. T board is a great idea though. __________________ '04 Viking Robtown Valve

05-15-2008, 01:58 AM	#4 (permalink)
pump Seasoned Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: under Kapiolani on ramp Posts: 611	so many wires..............why __________________ Hawaiipb.com Hawaii's Paintball forum NIB Warp Feeds FS Autotriggers for Sliders and Dye Pivots FS

05-16-2008, 02:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
TastePAINt88 Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 6	Roughly how long has it taken you to get the new board installed and set up? A few hours? __________________ '04 Viking Robtown Valve

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05-16-2008, 12:04 AM	#5 (permalink)
93civiccpe MCB Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 256	it looks like a good bit more wires because typically the microswitch is soldered into a board, so there's 2 extra wires. You have 4 eye wires. You have 2 solenoid wires. 2 wires for the 9 volt connector. 2 wires for the power switch. And 2 wires for the eye on/off membrane function. None the less, when the wires are trimmed up it looks a lot nicer. I'm going to try to get updated pictures and some videos here soon. The board and code has been great so far.. very fast and easy to program.