Paintball

[Spitlebug]

I am looking for pictures of the internals for a CenterFlag Uprising frame. I have an idea how they work, but I want to get a good idea on exactly how they tick and if it's doable for other frames...

[cfos00]

Basically, this is how it works. Behind the trigger is the a microswitch. When you pull the trigger, it activates a pancake noid. The noid is horizontal facing the front of the frame and right below the sear plate. The sear plate is oddly shaped, with a sear that your would normally picture as a cocker sear with an arm that goes straight down from the front of the sear down to directly in front of the noid.

When you pull the trigger, the noid kicks out and hits the the arm which drops the sear. When the sear arm is getting hit, it pushes into a lever that sits next to the threeway plate (basically just a rectangular thin plate with the actuator hole in the front and a ridge on the bottom in the back). The threeway plate gets pushed back as the level is struck by pushing on the plate's ridge, and shifts the threeway hole backwards switching your mechanical threeway.

There is a spring mounted between the threeway plate and the sear plate with tension from the back of the threeway plate pushing on the front of the sear plate. After the noid hits and sets off the chain reaction the moves the threeway plate back it causes that spring to compress between the two plates. Once the pressure from the noid striking the plates is gone (aka noid resetting to the original position), the tension from the spring can be released (aka spring goes from compressed to normal position). That pushes and resets the plates to their initial positions. Whole cycle happens as fast as the noid is set to go. Most boards for uprising frames are set to 13 a second, with the last couple runs being 20 bps frames. I got lucky and got one of the 20 bps frames.

[cfos00]

The only other frame that I know of that operates or can really operate in a similar way is the Trilogy SF. It's electro pneumatic and can be made pneumatic.

It uses a microswitch, which is connected to a noid with a ram attached. The noid activates a ram, which is aligned vertically underneath the the threeway plate. The threeway plate is shaped kind of like a nike swoosh, but with a full circle at teh bigger end. The smaller end is underneath the sear, which is shaped just like a normal sear with one exception. Again, a spring connects the 3 way plate and the sear. The spring is hooked into the 3way plate in the extra area of the swoosh. The other end of the spring is connected to the sear right at the pivot (where the sear pin goes through). The tension of the spring holds the two plates together. So, in order vertically bottom to top, is ram 3 way plate (tail end), then sear.

So how it works: Pull trigger. Trigger activates noid/ram. Ram pushed up into 3way plate. Hole in 3 way plate moves forward to activate your 3 way) 3way plate tail (still moving upward)gets pushed into the front end of the sear (again, shaped like basic cocker sear with a loop to hook in the spring). Back end of sear drops, gun goes boom. Ram loses pressure and goes back to set position (down). Tension from spring mounted between the 3 way plate and the sear being stretched is released. Spring goes to the home position, pulling the sear back home and the 3 way plate home. Everything is now reset.

You can make this pneumatic by taking the microswitch/board out of the equation. Mounting a MV-2 valve in the grip, connect it to the ram, connect the trigger with a trigger pin. Viola, pneucocker. That's how Kmac did it over on cc.

[cfos00]

If you're looking to redo either of these with another frame, I see a couple big problems. The first one is the hardest to solve, and that's that I don't know if you'd have enough space with any other frame. Everything is both frames is jammed in there with basically no wiggle room. Both frames are also really tall between the trigger 3 way plate/slot, abnormally tall compared to other frames. The other thing that would be a problem is that you would need a way to somehow mount all of the new, needed stuff in the frame.

Anything can be done with time/money/creative/capable work. This would be tricky. The Trilogy frame would probably be a lot easier to replicate. If you still want pictures, I have both frames but really don't want to take my Uprising of my epgp and take it apart if anyone else has pictures. I can get you pics of the trilogy frame if you want those.

[tolar250]

here is a basic representation i drew from memory of the internals


and some pictures i have of an uprising frame i had that someone else put a wrath t board in




i have another one at home i can tear down and take better pics of this evening if you want

try these pics i found (kmacs cocker id pics to the rescue)
http://www.pbase.com/k_macocker/cent...uprising_frame

[Spitlebug]

See that's perfect, I have a Wrath board... I imagine it would be possible with a UTB board.
I was thinking a vertical mounted solenoid that is thin but long.

Just a double check, 'Cocker frame spacing is 4+1/8" Center to Center?

[Leafy]

that basically how the newer spyder frames are.