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Old 07-06-2010, 04:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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In days past I tryed to mount a Boo-yah, storm frame on one and the holes don't line up, but maybe they could be moded to.
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Except that Piranha frames have a curved mounting surface where a PTX has a flat one.
Right, but that isn't an issue with a USP, and it gives you the advantage of full-sized internals - hence the recommendation.

To the original poster's question. There have been many, many attempts made over the years to do mechnical full-auto by sticking the sear of a blow-back. Tippmann Prolites and Carbines were notoriously easy to do this to. I even tried it once myself. Trust me when I tell you that you cannot feed fast enough. You may think that you can solve the feeding issue where others could not, but I would bet my last nickle that you can't do it either. It simply can't be done...or at least no without mods and equipment that would cost far more than an electro.

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Old 07-08-2010, 08:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Niterocker View Post
Right, but that isn't an issue with a USP, and it gives you the advantage of full-sized internals - hence the recommendation.

To the original poster's question. There have been many, many attempts made over the years to do mechnical full-auto by sticking the sear of a blow-back. Tippmann Prolites and Carbines were notoriously easy to do this to. I even tried it once myself. Trust me when I tell you that you cannot feed fast enough. You may think that you can solve the feeding issue where others could not, but I would bet my last nickle that you can't do it either. It simply can't be done...or at least no without mods and equipment that would cost far more than an electro.

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hehe. Thanks for the info, but like I said earlier I'm fully aware that a pin can be placed in the sear's slot to make virtually any blow-back full auto. I also understand that this cycle rate is much much to fast. No one I play with would like to get shot at >30bps either. We have found 8bps is about all the magazine can reliably do and is slightly higher than what we would like to be shot with.

What I'm looking for is a mechanical solution to slow this cycle down.

After researching doc's site and others, I think the conclusion is that although possible no one has been successful.
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Sorry, I need to pay more attention. Anyway, there were some theories floated about slowing down the cycle, but as you said, no one has actually managed to do it. All of this having been said, I think you'll have to stick with your current stratagy.

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Old 07-11-2010, 01:55 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Tippmann did it with the Tippmann F/A. They had two adjustable shocks that slowed the cyclic rate. Maybe you can add some rubber bits to grab the hammer at it's rearmost travel, but not enough to keep it there due to spring tension.
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Old 07-11-2010, 03:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Tippmann did it with the Tippmann F/A.
It was nowhere close to his 8-10bps, and it was never reliable

The "Full Auto Mech Blowback" was long called the holy grail to tinkers. Its absurdly easy to make any blowback into a mech full-auto, but it would cycle at 40cps. Making it work at 10bps or slower is so hard that nobody has found a simple solution.

The Tippmann F/A used dual hydraulics, with a dual sear system. It worked, but complex, and not something that a home tinker can do.

For the holy grail contest, I tried using a lever system, and extending the hammer stroke length. Neither worked very well. Punisher talked about RC bearings which have directional resistence. That might work. Everyone knows Hellbores pneumatic system.

The best approach is probobly the dual sear system. You have a standard sear to catch the hammer as normal (pinned for full auto). Then a second sear that is ONLY under heavy resistence. Ie spring, hydraulics, etc. This way, the hammer cycles as normal, pausing with the 2nd sear, then continues as normal. That was the method I tried with my lever system, but it was not at the right scale.

Anyway, Regardless, I think it will always be easier to adapt an electro-frame. They are cheap and practically thrown away by STBB owners.

If even that is too much, I once made a simple full/auto using a $10 DC motor from radioshack, hooked to the sear via a piston. Kludgy, but sorta worked.
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