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-   -   Making a Paintball Gun Review Standard? (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/dead-zone/154668-making-paintball-gun-review-standard.html)

Painthappy 03-15-2011 12:50 PM

Making a Paintball Gun Review Standard?
 
When reviewing guns, there is a lot of subjectiveness that goes into it. Color, feel, thoughts on quality, etc.

Some of us like pumps, some like electros, but no one likes a non-consistent gun. But how do we judge what is consistent? Where are the numbers? What numbers should we be using, testing, and using a bellweathers and guidelines?

Most of us know in a car that anything over 30 mpg is pretty awesome, but in a paintball gun that would be what? No idea.

A car and do 0 to 60 in x seconds is awesome, and can stop in x seconds at 30 feet is better, but what numbers do we use in a gun? No... I don't mean how far can one throw a gun, but maybe some certain standards are needed.

I propose a review standard.

FPS Consistency

Well, this is a must. Using a guns stock reg (they all come with their own now-a-days), what is that guns velocity consistency?

Reg testing, to be sure the reg is at optimal pressure....

Then shooting 12 shots, (should it be more?), in a slow succession (at least a second between shots), and jotting down every shot fps, getting the average fps, the high fps, and the low fps.

This allows you to get the +/- variance on the gun.

...

Shooting at a fast speed (what speed though?) to find a gun's ability to hold its velocity during rapid firing.

Take down the first FPS number, and then the 10th FPS number, maybe even a higher number?

Fuel Economy Stats

Like the car, how many shots CAN we get off a tank? I propose using a 13/3000 only because it's easier to shoot off 60 to 100 shots as opposed to a 45/4500, but I don't know for sure.

I'm assuming if you can shoot a paintball at 280 fps, when you dry fire it, you will expell the same amount of gas, and can easily test it.

Again, this is stock / out of the box parts and set up with minimal tweaking on the end users part. Sure, we'll get it up to the correct testing fps, but that is about it.

You wouldn't purchase a car that you couldn't drive off the lot with...


Other Gun Stats

Most of these are obtained by the manufacturer, but are important:

Gun Weight
Overall Length without Tank
Overall Length with Tank
Stock Barrel ID
Stock Barrel Length
Type of trigger switch (if electronic)
Type of Valve System
Optional Features / Components



Then the Subjective Stuff

Look and Feel
Ability and Ease of Aiming


Conclusion:

What else? Help me fix this into a working standard, at least for us here at MCB, so when we test guns and someone says this gun get XXX shots off at Y tank, we can either be impressed or not.

I think it's high time the average player starts learning how efficient their gun is, and how good the stock regs really are.


Oh, and if I'm completely off my rocker, please let me know. It's just that I have a bunch of guns here I need to start testing (spring if finally here and the fields are opening in 3 weeks finally) and I want to have something to actually aim for, and not just subjectively.

I'm leaving accuracy out of it, as it is just too darn subjective.

.... and you're turn... Now.

Droop 03-15-2011 12:53 PM

Gonna be honest,
I think that Mike from Tech Pb has a REALLY good review format. He tests everything you have listed there, and provides it in an easily accessible format.

idkfa 03-15-2011 12:59 PM

I think Punkworks (either before or after they were named as such) showed that certain guns will have drastically different shots counts when comparing dry firing with paint firing (except the Ion, if memory serves, that was pretty much the same).

desertT1 03-15-2011 01:00 PM

I think you will find that dry firing causes a tank to empty faster than with paint in front of the bolt.

I like the suggestion of the 13.3k as a benchmark. It will give an idea about a usable number of shots while still giving you an indication on the point that your gun stops shooting. If you know the HPR setting this is already known, but I don't have a gauge on any of my guns as I don't care what pressure they run at, within reason.


EDIT: To touch more on the dry fire aspect that IDKFA brought up, spool valves have a finite and preset unit of air for each shot, so those shouldn't be affected with dry firing, poppits would be affected though.

Mar 03-15-2011 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Painthappy (Post 1737763)
When reviewing guns, there is a lot of subjectiveness that goes into it. Color, feel, thoughts on quality, etc.

Some of us like pumps, some like electros, but no one likes a non-consistent gun. But how do we judge what is consistent? Where are the numbers? What numbers should we be using, testing, and using a bellweathers and guidelines?

Most of us know in a car that anything over 30 mpg is pretty awesome, but in a paintball gun that would be what? No idea.

A car and do 0 to 60 in x seconds is awesome, and can stop in x seconds at 30 feet is better, but what numbers do we use in a gun? No... I don't mean how far can one throw a gun, but maybe some certain standards are needed.

I propose a review standard.

FPS Consistency

Well, this is a must. Using a guns stock reg (they all come with their own now-a-days), what is that guns velocity consistency?

Reg testing, to be sure the reg is at optimal pressure....

Then shooting 12 shots, (should it be more?), in a slow succession (at least a second between shots), and jotting down every shot fps, getting the average fps, the high fps, and the low fps.

This allows you to get the +/- variance on the gun.

...

Shooting at a fast speed (what speed though?) to find a gun's ability to hold its velocity during rapid firing.

Take down the first FPS number, and then the 10th FPS number, maybe even a higher number?

Fuel Economy Stats

Like the car, how many shots CAN we get off a tank? I propose using a 13/3000 only because it's easier to shoot off 60 to 100 shots as opposed to a 45/4500, but I don't know for sure.

I'm assuming if you can shoot a paintball at 280 fps, when you dry fire it, you will expell the same amount of gas, and can easily test it.

Again, this is stock / out of the box parts and set up with minimal tweaking on the end users part. Sure, we'll get it up to the correct testing fps, but that is about it.

You wouldn't purchase a car that you couldn't drive off the lot with...


Other Gun Stats

Most of these are obtained by the manufacturer, but are important:

Gun Weight
Overall Length without Tank
Overall Length with Tank
Stock Barrel ID
Stock Barrel Length
Type of trigger switch (if electronic)
Type of Valve System
Optional Features / Components



Then the Subjective Stuff

Look and Feel
Ability and Ease of Aiming


Conclusion:

What else? Help me fix this into a working standard, at least for us here at MCB, so when we test guns and someone says this gun get XXX shots off at Y tank, we can either be impressed or not.

I think it's high time the average player starts learning how efficient their gun is, and how good the stock regs really are.


Oh, and if I'm completely off my rocker, please let me know. It's just that I have a bunch of guns here I need to start testing (spring if finally here and the fields are opening in 3 weeks finally) and I want to have something to actually aim for, and not just subjectively.

I'm leaving accuracy out of it, as it is just too darn subjective.

.... and you're turn... Now.


it's called a 'marker'.... but I like how you are not PC and call it a gun. Rock on.

Luckless 03-15-2011 01:17 PM

Rather than overall length with tank, why not position from the back of the marker (and angle) of the asa?

Diomedes 03-15-2011 01:20 PM

A little off topic, but how would the presence or absence of paint affect air consumption?

DSA 03-15-2011 01:21 PM

I like it, I would like to add it should be required to post at least one thing you didn't like to play it straight.

desertT1 03-15-2011 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diomedes (Post 1737802)
A little off topic, but how would the presence or absence of paint affect air consumption?

With a ball present, there is more restriction to flow. Blow through a straw, then lightly press your finger against the end and do it. Less flow and more chance for pressure to get built up all the way back to the valve.

woouulf 03-15-2011 01:24 PM

I would like to see an ease of use gradeing , entry level,novice,expert...Some of the electro's ive had just arn't user friendly..


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