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Old 06-18-2011, 10:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The lathe is set up

Not quite ready. Still have to do very minor leveling. Need special wrech for that job.

Thanks to Red Neck Sniper for helping me to get this mounted properly. He'll be showing me a few things later this month.

Freak boaring is a major priority for me,but will not offer this service. I'm just not willing to ruin anyone's barrel. Going to learn a little about threading to.

For now RNS has given me a little reading homework. Also have to do a little clean up on the machine.

Later,
Blackrain


Last edited by blackrain; 06-18-2011 at 11:07 PM. Reason: punctuation
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sweet! Brady rules.
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Brady was a big help

Later,
Blackrain
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This may sound weird, but I would love to clean something like that. I'm not sure why, but I like to clean machinery. If you want to practice freak boring, I have a couple barrels I don't care about
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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cool old machine...now you can add an aloris AXA tool post setup to your wish list
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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ahhhh rust!
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That looks remarkebly like my own Longem chinese made lathe but with rust on it instead of all shiney

Hopefully the rust is just a flashing on the outer surface and hasn't had a chance to pit deeply into the bed metal.

Don't clean it away with anything abrasive. Instead use steel wool and oil and possibly a rust converter such as Naval Jelly. Abrasives can and will bust off particles that will embed in any rust pitting and wear away at the bed and carraige later on. Not to mention that sandpaper or other abrasives are wearing away the metal. On other items you wouldn't care. But on your lathe making the bed even a half thou out of whack will show up in the work.

Same for when you're using sandpaper to polish up a workpiece. Always have a patch of something like an old towel to lay over the bed so any grit worn from the sandpaper or emory cloth doesn't land on the bend. And if you're using a tool post grinder for anything ever the same concerns apply.

If your lathe is like mine the rubber bed way scrapers on the carraige and tail stock are totally useless. Mine didn't even touch the bed. I made up my own from metal and some heavy felt boot liners. I've attached a couple of other pictures of stuff done for my own lathe as well.





An aluminium arm and indicator with rare earth button magnets. In use the ruler is dragged forward by the quill and the drilling depth is indicated by the movable indicator. This has proven to be very slick. And the ruler is always handy for any other measuring and is quickly replaced for depth measurements.





I got a deal on a small 4 jaw on sale and made up a stub mandrel for it. This has come in very handy for quick 4 jaw work where I need to zero a part for some further machining. EDIT- In looking over this picture I see another improvement I made. That big box like "thing" is a light guage aluminium roof flashing motor cover I made up to keep the chips and oil spatter from getting into the cooling area of the motor. Before I did that the end bell of the motor was a sticky mess covered with chips enough to restrict the air flow. It's definetly worth your time to do something similar. Just be sure to leave a good inch or more gap so you don't block the airflow into the end bell fan.

Best of all the box acts as a shelf to catch small parts that want to go flying....



Tool post quick mount with dial indicator. Very, very handy.



Die holder for threading parts that you don't want to remove from the lathe. This gizmo does a decent job of centering the thread cutting but it's no replacement for single point thread cutting if you're doing something that needs to be precise. In use the stub arbor in the chuck fits with a snug spin fit into the tail of the die holder.



The die holder in use.



Some morse taper arbors I made up on the lathe for special applications. One is a milling cutter holder for my mill/drill, the other a slitting saw blade arbor and the last is obviously a mounting arbor for the boring head. Cutting the taper to the exact angle needed to achieve a good fit took some fiddling around. First off the cutting point needed to be dead on center. Second, the dial indicator tip used to guage the taper used for setting the angle had to also be dead on center. By "dead on" I mean splitting the line on a ruler by eye is "close enough". The final fit was done using an MT3 socket and felt marker lines dragged along the taper. The socket being put on lightly and twisted. The high spots along the taper were then lightly filed off using a long angle lathe file (get one, they are great and totally different from regular files). The results were that pushing them into place with only a couple of lbs of pressre resulted in a lock which could not be pulled back out by hand.



Specialty tool posts. One for knurling and coining (straight knurling is called "coining") cutters and the other to hold boring bars. Because these both use the cutters alinged with the center line of the lathe I was able to cut and mill the holes and slots right in the lath before I even had a mill/drill machine.





Hopefully these things encourage you to jump into making up your own specialty tooling. It's half the fun when you're a hobby machinist sort of guy....
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Last edited by Railgun; 06-20-2011 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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great job on your tooling Railgun!
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks! Coming from someone that does your level of work that means a lot!

Making this stuff was not only a great way to learn some techniques but it's made jobs since that that use these things a LOT faster to do or more accurate. Your basic Win-Win all around.
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