Paintball

[ghost271]

Finally after years of looking, finding, and losing out to bid snipers I finally scored TWO Nightmare LB SC !
It took some time to clean them up and almost had to marinade one of them in GooGone to get the camo-tape residue off of the stock and barrel, but they are finally clean and are in fantastic shape. The one without the stock has almost no visible handle wear and only some slight fading in a couple of areas of the Bluing.
The one with the stock is in great shape as well, and looks like the owner had it annodized black. There is NO rust on the bodies at all; only a bit on a few screws.

I have to find the old TPG articles online here that has the article on takedown as both guns have leaks.
One interesting thing I found however. It seems that either the previous owner or BE made an external velocity mod ! It seems that the lower rear hammer cap is backed out 1/2 an inch and retapped to align with the rear frame screw. The rear of the cap is drilled out and an allen screw, screwwed in with a washer laying flush inside. The spring lines up nicely, and with a turn of the allen key the velocity rises. Nicley done, clean, and annoed to match.

The one in mint condition will adorn my wall and the other will get play out of her. I am even contemplating sending her off to Gruntbull to get annodized a Gloss Gunmetal Gray

Now for the pics !

[WSCopic]

Nice score there. I hope you get lots of enjoyment out of them.

[Phantom Power]

Awesome score man. Nightmares are extremely cool. The velocity adjuster is a bonus as well. I did up a prototype constant air adapter, but forgot to snap pics for you. I'll try and do that in the next few days.

[Railgun]

Nice, I'm really likeing the looks and thought of stock or at least stick feed in the near future.

What is the valve arrangement on these? From the upper loader tube I'm guessing Nelson? But the magazine tube is really LOOOOONG. Does it rock both ways to drop a ball down the hole or is the front area blocked off?

[CB103]

The 12 gram goes in the top tube as well

[komodo]

The operation on these is...I guess the best way to describe it is like a Sheridan, flipped upside down and backwards. 12gram in the top tube, just behind the breech, where the rest of the tube acts as a ball feed. The lower tube is the barrel, with the main workings just under where the 12gram sits.

I have still yet to actually own one.

Someday....someday...

[Ratzo]

They looks so nice.
Great snag.

[Shocker03]

Beautiful guns... I've always wanted one with the stock like that.

[big jim]

Actually The valve is in the lower tube as well as the hammer and bolt. The rear plug came stock with the second set screw hole in it and simply had a set screw holding the plug in the lower tube when the frame/grip is removed. Once the frame is removed and the rear plug is out the hammer and main spring can be removed. Remove the pump and in front of the hammer you will see the valve body secured with 3 set screws, one on the bottom and one on each side. Remove these screws and then the valve can come out. You should be able to softly puch rear-ward on the front tube of the valve body by reaching through the slot for the bolt to pump handle screw. If the valve doesn't come out easily you can use a wooden dowl down the barrel but be soft, the valve body is probably made of aluminum and can be easily damaged. Brass eagle was big on "cool factor" but poor on durability IMHO.
Once the valve is removed you can see if it is brass, which is good, or aluminum which is not quite so good. I have never seen a brass one so I can't tell you about them but to open the aluminum one I took an old flat bladed screw driver and cut a slot in the center of the blade the size of the valve stem. The slot only needs to be around 1/4" deep. With the screw driver now you can depress the valve stem enough to engage the slot on the valve head and unscrew it. Under here you will find a flat white disk, the valve seal. Here is the point where I said that the brass valve body is better. If the body is brass Scarecrow on this board has repair valve seals and other needed parts. If it is aluminum his parts won't fit. What he had me do with my aluminum bodied valve was use 800 or finer grit wet or dry sandpaper and sand the seal down to create a new surface for the valve stem to seat on. Reinstallation goes in simple reverse manner. In the valve there is a small o-ring at the bottom, then a flat washer to protect it from the valve spring which is next and then the valve stem, the valve seal and cap. When working on your treasure remember, this is weak aluminum and it is easy to strip or damage, BE SOFT.

Enjoy your new toys.

P.S. When you get it together and shooting don't be alarmed if the gun makes a Pluffffft sound when shooting, kind of like you are low on air and the valve is fluttering. This sound was very charistic of the old Brass Chicken guns and may actually get you a few cheap elimenations "sucker's outta air! Rush Him!!"

[ghost271]

Thanks for the help and advice Jim !
Any confrimation as to what Merc said in regards to O-Rings ?
"i could be mistaken but i think most of the orings in the lower tube are also in the cocker and the upper tube are tippmann 98 hammer/valve orings (could be wrong i heard about the cocker and the tippmann hammer/valve oring fit on mine)"