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Old 04-07-2006, 03:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Core ZX help

I have a Core ZX with efficency problems. I can only squeeze out about 8-9 shots per 12grm. When I first got the ZX it was shooting hot, and was gettting somewhere around ~15 per 12grm. So I started clipping the main spring to bring the velocity down to acceptable levels. Somehow I went too far, and am now shooting(last i checked) around 220fps, and getting 8-9 shots per 12grm. I would think that with a lower velocity I should be getting a higher shot count.
Thanks
Russell
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Old 04-07-2006, 03:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You are going to want a perfect balance as far as the relationship between the main and valve springs.

Do those use spyder springs? If so I would purchase a srping kit and attempt to balnce the valve train. You will most likely want the valve to open every so slightly at full pressure. You might even get betters shots per 12 gram if you were shooting closer to the 240-250 range. your best bet is to expirement though...

-Jake
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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aah, Low velocity!

Stechele, is there an o-ring on the striker(hammer)? The mainspring only regulates how fast the hammer and bolt travel forward, air pushes them back. I've seen zeus' that came with no O-ring on the striker and still cycled okay but improved alot with an o-ring on there.

Kidneythief is right on, but I'd try ordering a warsensor zeus(or core) spring kit, if I were going new, instead because I think the valve spring is different because of the pierce pin holder. I could be wrong about the valve spring, but I know the mainspring is different from Spyders, it's a Tipmmann type(only a little stronger usually).
You might try overcompressing the valve spring(watch for rattling ) or trimming it. this will allow your current mainspring to knock the cupseal open further giving you more velocity(and therefore more air for blowback).
If there isn't enough air to recock the hammer and bolt, they'll come forward and gas out the gun sometimes, perhaps you could also check under the small plate on the side for dirt or grit.

Hope that helps!

Rob
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I will have to check if there is an oring on the hammer. I do not think there is one.
I was also about to order a spring kit to replace the chopped one.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The spring kit didnt work for me, the strength of the valve spring was too high and wouldnt let it open nearly at all. And the cup seal was different, so watch out. I had the same problem but was not able to completely fix it, I can only get around 13 shots per 12gram now.
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Old 04-07-2006, 06:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Surge-NS, you can trim the valve spring the same as the mainspring if you like(not a whole ring at a time of course only a little). That may help your efficiency, once you've lowered the velocity back to normal.

Kidneythief hit the nail on the head by saying the two springs have to be balanced. I tried one of those aftermarket delrin bolts and had all kinds of trouble getting it to function right(only to find it spun the balls unmercifully ). Then had to redo the whole shebang for the stock bolt. It makes tuning a cocker look like screwing in a lightbulb sometimes!

I've worn my G2 pretty much out (somewhere over 15,000 rounds of paint, 4 or 5 co2 plugs, 2 velocity adjusters). The threads for the co2 plug are different on the newer G2+ models and they use a totally different velocity adjuster, so I'll be replacing mine soon with a new G2+ and I'll get to start snipping, hacking, drilling and tuning all over again. Luckily my modified speedload magazine can just be popped on the new gun.
I mess with it alot at home, but I have to say in play this has been the most dependable gun I've ever had, though I'm not asking as much of it as I would a hopper fed marker I guess.

Ah by the way, Stechele, you'll be glad to know that the striker O-ring for the Cores and Zeus' is the same as a CO2 Bottle O-ring, so if you can swipe one off of a tank or have some, you can try it out and see if it helps.

Rob
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Old 04-07-2006, 07:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I took a look at while on my dinner break. It does have a oring on the hammer.
Either tonight or tomorrow I am going to trim the valve spring a little. If I can get that to work, then I am going to hold off on the parts kit.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well it looks like I killed the valve spring and main spring(dont ask me how). It leaking out the barrel, and I tried stretching the valve spring to no avail. So I ordered a parts kit.
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Old 04-11-2006, 01:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Stechele,
at the back of the pierce pin block is a cup for the valve spring to go into. If the valve spring isn't perfectly centered in the tube as you look down in at it, before you put in the pierce pin block, the spring can catch on the edge of the cup in the pierce pin block and bow out to one side or the other, levering your cupseal away from the edge of the valve, especially if there's any slop where the cupseal rod goes through the valve. That's the only thought that comes to mind. Only the cupseal or the o-rings of the valve can let co2 into the barrel, though.

Fingers crossed,
Rob
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah i think the orings got a little chewed up when messing around with it. I tried to be careful not to let the valve spring go crooked in there. But I messed up the springs anyways(cut too much of main spring) so I went ahead and ordered the parts kit. Atleast this way I can get things back to stock, and have a few spare parts(crosses Fingers).
The sad thing is I was debating getting a Tiberious 8, and didnt want to shell out for one(bills) but ended uo buying over $250 in paintball stuff anyways(smacks self in head)
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