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Old 05-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The work you put into these are amazing.
Hope you get the detent worked out.
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Old 07-13-2013, 03:09 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I would like to get my 38t converted...is this possible by somebody here or else where?
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:37 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acrewofone View Post
I figured out a useable ball detent system. I glued small strips (1/8" x 1/2") of clear velcro (the fuzzy side), into each cylinder hole. I installed the small strip at the top of the cylinder hole, so it might actually put some back spin on the paintball, and help it travel farther. It seems to work good, and keeps the paintballs securely in each cylinder. Now I just need to get to a digital camera and get better pictures for posting on VintageRex.
Hm, that's actually a really clever detent system. If that doesn't work long term, you may want to check out the o-ring system Dukie used on the DRV cylinders. Simple and effective, but requires turning a slot into the cylinder to hold the o-ring.

I'm assuming these still used the same guts/valve as a 3357?
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:44 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PistolRogue View Post
Hm, that's actually a really clever detent system. If that doesn't work long term, you may want to check out the o-ring system Dukie used on the DRV cylinders. Simple and effective, but requires turning a slot into the cylinder to hold the o-ring.

I'm assuming these still used the same guts/valve as a 3357?
The o-ring system would be even better, and probably more consistent. My velcro will probably wear done as it gets used.

...and since it's 38T based, the Mark V50 guts/valve and internals are nothing like a 3357. The valve itself is 3 times the size of the one in the 3357, but it's mostly thick walls, so the actual air chamber is smaller (notice that in making a ball chute for the .50 caliber paintball, they were able to cut a large portion of the side of the valve out, without cutting into the internal air chamber).
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