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Old 10-05-2017, 09:28 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Should shoot exactly the same, you just get fancier parts with the LVR.

Speaking of efficiency, punkncat, I suggest watching some cnoddings efficiency tests on youtube if you're interested in that. He has done a bunch. All of the DM series guns average 9 +/- 1 pod with the dm7 getting 10 which I think was the best. Something to be said for a gun that is well broken in and maintained perhaps...

LV series guns get 12+ and they shoot like butter too.
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:42 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Speaking of efficiency, punkncat, I suggest watching some cnoddings efficiency tests on youtube if you're interested in that. He has done a bunch. All of the DM series guns average 9 +/- 1 pod with the dm7 getting 10 which I think was the best. Something to be said for a gun that is well broken in and maintained perhaps...
Unfortunately no idea on the background on what APPEARS to be a very lightly USED marker....but apparently the kid didn't know crap about the insides.

When I got this the LPR retaining screw was out. The kid apparently thought the back cap was the adjuster, and turned it to a degree that the LPR body itself shot out towards the cap and off the oring shoulder. So, all I had to do to return it to operation was change the LPR soft parts. On top of that, the only thing I can see "wrong" (and have issue verifying) is the number of shims in the LPR. There are widely varying accounts of how many should be in there, but regardless I seem to have it operating properly.
The efficiency on the other hand is well out of control, so I likely need to look into it better. Right now I am using in the neighborhood of 1K every hopper from a 68.
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:18 AM   #23 (permalink)
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My only experience with Dye guns has been the NT11, which although gorgeous on the outside, didn't impress me from a quality control standpoint. My team had them as sponsor guns for a season and we had a ton of issues.

My own gun's internals appeared to have never been deburred after machining, leading to several early o-ring failures. Even after deburring, the soft, foamie colored o-rings they use always seemed to give up way too often, switching to some quality buna-n rings from McMaster and deburring the metal parts finally got it to a respectable level of reliability, but for a $1200 gun I thought it was ridiculous that I had to do any of that just to get more than a day of play out of a set of o-rings. I was turned off to the brand from that point on, though I've heard DM's had fewer issues.
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Old 10-05-2017, 10:39 PM   #24 (permalink)
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If it shoots like the LVR (probably not $500) then I'd agree.

I got mine for 500, a USA version. Shoots like butter with efficiency like ag6r
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:42 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Yea I'd agree with Benji.

I was a huge DM fan for years, switched to a TWSTR LV1 and have never looked back. Feels as smooth as my DM's ever did and will shoot 10+ pods easy. Plus maintenance is a breeze and takes all of 5 minutes.

I switched to a CS1 for a bit afterwards and ended up shooting the LV1 again cause it just shoots SO nice.

FWIW rumor is to expect an M3 and possibly and LV2 this year at cup next month. Prices should come down on any of the older used guns then.
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:18 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Yea I'd agree with Benji.

I was a huge DM fan for years, switched to a TWSTR LV1 and have never looked back. Feels as smooth as my DM's ever did and will shoot 10+ pods easy. Plus maintenance is a breeze and takes all of 5 minutes.

I switched to a CS1 for a bit afterwards and ended up shooting the LV1 again cause it just shoots SO nice.

FWIW rumor is to expect an M3 and possibly and LV2 this year at cup next month. Prices should come down on any of the older used guns then.
I would love a Twister CS/LV/Axe...the issue is that I would get on field and think to myself...oh noes, I might scratch it or something. Then back up for sale it would go.

Buddy of mine has an M2 he is going to let me try out. I am also going to work a bit with the DM I currently have on eff. numbers.
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:59 AM   #27 (permalink)
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What is your dwell on your dm10?

I would replace the small oring on the bolt tail (forwardmost 010 I think.), and the forwardmost outer 020 on the bolt cap/guide.
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Old 10-06-2017, 09:04 AM   #28 (permalink)
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#3 and #8 (on the red section) in this image


Use black buna, not the colored ones.
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Old 10-06-2017, 09:17 AM   #29 (permalink)
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What is your dwell on your dm10?

I would replace the small oring on the bolt tail (forwardmost 010 I think.), and the forwardmost outer 020 on the bolt cap/guide.
Stock settings, I defaulted the board when I got her, so what? 16? Fully rebuilt the bolt/LPR/seat, but haven't done the HPR (yet) as it adjusts and holds well.

IDK if it matters, but as I mentioned before, the field owner will have us adjust velocity during the day according to who shows up....IE if it's noobs we have to shoot 260/count bounces, but regulars it's 280. I have noted that at 280 it shoots nice, consistent. At 260 it's all over the place, even after messing with the LPR.

I probably have about a case of paint through it since doing the rebuild.
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Old 10-06-2017, 09:36 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I believe stock is 18. You shouldn't need to adjust the LPR to chrono down though... if you have inconsistency I would raise it in fact.
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