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Old 09-20-2006, 04:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Some PMI Magnum Q's.

Empty body. So it needs new internals anyway. Most of which will be custom-made.

Springs: Can I use 'cocker springs? The valve, in particular.

The pre-valve/spring chamber, whatchacallit--it's just soldered in? I may need to remove it to do some work, especially if I can't use 'cocker springs.

Valve: standard Sheridan threads? What's the spec on those, anyway? Or, is there a good source for them?

The grip frame: assuming it's the same spacing as my old PGP frame (don't have it to measure) and thus standard 'cocker spacing. Was the rear hole at the back of the body or further back, at the rear cap?

Thanks in advance! Now thank Bacci for my renewed annoyance. :P
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Old 09-20-2006, 06:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Assuming your talking about the PMI 68 magnum and not the PMI III/VM68 magnum

As fas as I know, you'll need to modify some stuff for the autococker springs in the valve, but dont quote me on that. The Valve itself is a "non-cartrige" or "old style" valve. The main body of the valve is soldered in, but the rest comes apart (you'll need a valve tool) BAsicly its all standard sheridan. Grip frame is standard issue sheridan, asnd attaches as such. THere was no rear cap persey on magnums but rather a rear ASA with a hardline factroy side tapped into the valve. I wish I could think of more, but have since hacked my 68 for my K-68-mag project.
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Right, the PMI, rather Pirahna LB-esque marker.

I noticed the valve. Nice chamber there, and it is tapped at the side. Looks like the fiting was soldered in place, too, but I don't know if that's factory. I wasn't aware exactly how the tank was mounted, just figured if air got there...

My plan was to put in 'cocker springs, a new valve (thought the internal threads were gone--just as well they're not, if I can find or make a valve), and drill the front of the spring chamber so I can add a foregrip and plug the side tap.

Also trying to decide how to mount everything. Make a replacement feed block attached via rail, as was the original plan, or solder on a 45. Which, in the case of one originally meant to replace a SC feed, I believe would result in a slightly offset vertical.

Will also be making it semi, probably convertible to PA--in which case an exchangable feed block would be awesome. Trying to decide whether I should solder new mounts or get a front block.

Bah. Decisions.
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Old 09-20-2006, 09:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The valve will take nelson springs. They are the same springs as older 'cockers, but not the same as newer ones. New cockers use longer valve springs, so those might need some clipping. The mainspring is not compatible with 'cockers.

Don't un-solder anything inside the body. It's a PITA to get back in and may need to be sent to PPS for repair.

Grip frame is standard.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well, like I said, it need new internals. So, as long as the mainspring is roughly the same length as a 'cocker one, that should be alright.

Now to track down the valve and a proper drawing of a striker...
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Old 09-21-2006, 12:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If yor going to be doinga semi build, and your missing a bunch of parts, Id recomend removing the valve entirely and replacing with a cartridge valve. IIRC they can be had for 20-40 bucks. As an added bonus, making a new back for the cartrige valve to accept both a side tapped air source and a front mounted LPR is relativly simple, several people have had good luck with this. OH yes that 90 is soldered in at the factory.
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Old 09-22-2006, 05:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Hmmm.

Well, the 90's not there right not. There's enough thread there for one, but it is brass, and it is a little worn.

I wanted a foregrip on it, too, but I'm not worried about that overmuch. I can make a custom front piece. I assume cartridge valves take the same springs?

Now, how to get the chamber and valve threads out, though. Silver-soldered in, too?
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Old 09-22-2006, 11:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes the springs work in cartridge valves. No, it is not silver soldered. It's just tin solder IIRC.
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