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Old 07-15-2008, 03:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Eblade autococker= Awesome

Today I shot my Dad's autococker. First time in a couple months I have shoten a cocker(had my sniper as a mech) in about 3 months. I have to say I was really impressed with the ebladed cocker. The thing has almost as little kick and is as quiet as my pm7 also it can shot ropes with ease. It doesn't have eyes but I also figured out that the name autchopper doesn't apply to this gun. It just pinches the paint and won't chop!! Now my question to yoo more knowledgably guys is
1. how to tune a cocker to pinch instead of chop
2. WHY are cockers so rare to see in tourny play? They can rip.
Thanks
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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To tune for a pinch you simply lower the input pressure allowing you to lower the main spring tension which allows you to lower your ram pressure.

Basically with the lowered pressures the ram doesnt need as much force to open and close the bolt/cock the hammer. Which means the difference between a chop and a pinch.

Cockers fell by the way side with all the new electro pnuematic wiz bang guns.

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Old 07-15-2008, 04:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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While cockers are in my opinion still the most accurate platform, they require attention and care to keep them running. Lets say I need to chrono my electro cocker, in order to do so (unless its a halfblock) I need to degass, remove the cocking rod, adjust, reinstall the rod, gas up and shoot, repeat as long as needed...or I could just set it from the reg like any other marker, no big deal. But if you have deliberately sweetspotted that reg to run at the optimum pressure I wouldn't throw it off.

Next issue is the bounce beam eye. While it works ok with most paint it does not detect black shelled paint.

Too many things you can adjust to make it not shoot properly.

HAS to have perfect barrel to bore match or else the first shot is an empty pop.

E-blade eats batteries, E1 is the worst electro grip that I know regarding battery efficiency.

Settings are a PAIN to change, you need to have a rof meter in order to get accurate readings.

Last season I competed with a karni and really enjoyed playing with it, that was before I got my Etek II. That thing is lighter, idiotproof for those mechanically inclined ones (I like to tinker and mess with the settings but not during a tournament), batteries last SO much longer, requires no tinkering at all, easier to handle, better eyes, better gas efficiency without any sweetspotting required, better on/off ASA....

It's just sad cause I really like cockers
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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And a team may be sponsored by a certain gun company that wants them to use their guns.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeytown View Post
And a team may be sponsored by a certain gun company that wants them to use their guns.
None of the pro teams are sponsored by WGP markers anymore, that is correct. Propably the biggest reason behind the lack of their markers on the tournament level.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grande View Post
...Lets say I need to chrono my electro cocker, in order to do so (unless its a halfblock) I need to degass, remove the cocking rod, adjust, reinstall the rod, gas up and shoot, repeat as long as needed...

...

E-blade eats batteries, E1 is the worst electro grip that I know regarding battery efficiency....
Why do you degas when changing velocity?

I've heard people complain about the E1 battery thirst, but I haven't experienced it. Are people leaving their batteries in the frame for weeks at a time? "Off" current was something like 50microamps when I measured it, so I try to remove the battery at the end of a day's play and toss it in the fridge to preserve it. I don't worry if I'm lazy and don't get to the battery for a couple of days, because it doesn't seem to affect voltage much.

I'm weird, though... I've got an E1 and all I play is woodsball, rec ball and scenario.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Why do you degas when changing velocity?
Sorry I wasn't too specific in my post, I was referring to adjusting velocity on a karnivor. When you are on any ramping mode the backblock is automatically returned in the forward position (unlike in CLASSIC mode were the block returns only when you release the trigger). And on a karni you also need to remove the snatchgrip to change velocities and see that the holes on the IVG line up with the hole in the body before reinserting the screw.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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E2/Zero-B has dealt with the issue of batteries draining when the marker is switched off.

I leave the batteries in everytime, can't be bothered in opening the grips every single time I go out and play. For someone who goes out playing once a month I don't think it will be that big of a deal, but if you play 2-3 times a week replacing the batts will start feeling like work
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I always forget about Karnivors.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sponsorships and the slow factory adpotion of halfblocking/midblocking.
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