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Old 01-07-2007, 12:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmayhak View Post
umm two questions

Can you put gun oil on the top of a 12 gram? I do that with the first one of the day and just shoot it all out with no balls. Is that bad?

Can you put oil on the top of a CO2 tank? I do that sometimes too. Just shoot a few shots after dropping some oil on the tank.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but Oil and HPA is the problem, specifically quickly compressed oxygen and oil. As stated above if they still used only pure nitrogen not compressed air, then this wouldn't be a risk?

As for your tanks, anything bigger than a 9 oz tank needs rehydroed after 5 years, smaller tanks are usually exempt, with some exceptions. 2 inch diameter rule.
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Old 01-07-2007, 01:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Wow. What baffles me is that this player thought oil would solve the leak? I'm no engineer but I always thought if something's leaking, you use something like teflon tape or loctite, provided the part isn't faulty.

I agree with the whole microline deal. I can't count the number of times I've seen that stuff snap and whip around. The ballistic bag idea is pretty kewl too.

The stickers shouldn't be a problem. When I got my tank re-hydroed there was a sticker put on it. There should also be signs at/on the fill stations about the dangers of oiling the fill nipple.
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Old 01-07-2007, 01:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by knightmare96 View Post
Correct me if I am wrong, but Oil and HPA is the problem, specifically quickly compressed oxygen and oil. As stated above if they still used only pure nitrogen not compressed air, then this wouldn't be a risk?

As for your tanks, anything bigger than a 9 oz tank needs rehydroed after 5 years, smaller tanks are usually exempt, with some exceptions. 2 inch diameter rule.
Correct on the Nitrogen. Since there is no oxygen present when filling with pure Nitrogen, combustion can not occur.
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Old 01-07-2007, 03:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I don't think the issue is entirely an oxygen one. Compressing air doesn't expose the oil to "more" oxygen. (air is only like 18%) oxygen. The other half of the culprit is the fact that the mixture is under pressure. Think about what happens inside a diesel engine (remember, they don't have spark plugs)

About putting drops of oil on co2 carts. It isn't really needed, as 12g's (ones for air guns, this isn't true of those soda/beer ones) have oil in them that is rated for the pressures. I wouldn't recommend putting oil in ASAs on CO2 bottles either. If you need to oil the innards, try putting a couple of drops in the gun's ASA and leave it at that. I don't oil any of my guns in that manner and they do just fine.

I've put oil in things to get them to stop leaking. Works great on some air tools. The idea is that you'll soften up the offending seal and it'll reseat. You just have to think about what you're putting where. If you put something that is a kissing cousin to diesel into a place with air under high pressures, it doesn't take much of a temperature bump to set it off.

As far as the plastic line thing, I thought microline was good and macro line was evil (since nobody seems to be able to use the stuff with the correct rating). I was going to see about getting some micro line to restring a couple of 68 Specials.

Personally, I think that I'll just stick to CO2. I'm familiar with similar materials, and my guns don't need any extra regulators....

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Old 01-07-2007, 04:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I don't think the issue is entirely an oxygen one. Compressing air doesn't expose the oil to "more" oxygen. (air is only like 18%) oxygen. ........
You're right that the % of oxygen doesn't change but the partial pressure of the oxygen does. This is standard stuff to scuba divers.

Basically since there's more oxygen in there it acts the same as pure oxygen at the lower pressure in terms of it's oxidizing ability. So in a 3000 psi tank the oxygen content has the same ability to oxidize as if it was pure oxygen at 600 psi in the same tank. And no one in their right mind would put anything like oil into a tank with 600 psi of pure oxygen.

As mentioned before the flashpoint of many things like that oil can be varied on the oxidizing level of the atomosphere it's in. A lot of oils are quite dangerous even just around pure oxygen at one atmosphere. At 600 they are a bomb.
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Old 01-07-2007, 07:09 AM   #16 (permalink)
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http://www.luxfercylinders.com/suppo...umoxygen.shtml
Here is a link from Luxfer's website detailing the need for cylinder cleaning. It deals with tank scrubbing for use with enriched air or nitrox, but is informative. As a scuba diver I can attest that compressed air that is intended to be used as a breathing gas, is filtered to insure it has no oils (actually a level of a few parts per million), or petroleum products in it. Compressed air/ especially oxygen and petroleum products can produce auto ignition. Adding oil into a compressed air cylinder prior to filling is a bad idea.

For the sake of clarity, here’s a summary of the oxygen threshold percentages at which various key U.S. agencies and organizations require special cleaning of oxygen-handling equipment and systems:
Organization Oxygen threshold Reference
U.S. Navy >25% Mil-Std-1330D
U.S. Compressed Gas Association (CGA) >23.5% CGA Pamphlet 4.4
National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) >21 – 25% NFPA standards
American Society for Testing & Materials (ASTM) >25% G126, G128, G63, G94
National Aeronautical & Space Administration (NASA) >21%/>100 psig Various KSC & JSC
Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA) >23.5% 29CFR1910.146
OSHA >23.5% 29CFR1910.134
OSHA >40% 29CFR1910.430
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Old 01-07-2007, 07:42 AM   #17 (permalink)
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This thread makes me want to review how I fill my own tanks from a scuba fill kit, just to be safe. Does anyone know a thread with that kind of info?
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by podup365.com View Post
There are air compressors available that do not fill tanks quickly, but rather in slower stages. I think that filling a tank quickly will eventually cause undue wear and tear on the internal portion of the tank.
Slightly OT, but PMI Pure Energy HPA tank regs don't like to be slam filled (filled quickly). I had to send two tanks back to PMI for repair after they kept leaking after being filled quickly but the local shop.
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Old 01-07-2007, 09:14 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Hot fills seem to be the norm everywhere.

The local field switched to "all day air" SPECIFICALLY because HPA users kept complaining about tanks being hot-filled... and thus underfilled. So, with "all day air", he could tell them to shutup, since refills were free

I told him he could fill them "scuba-style", and fill them fast WHILE SUBMERGED in cold water. The water aborbs the heat, so the tank gets a full fill fast, but HPA owners balked about messing up there stickers. So the idea was dropped.

I've never heard about damaged regs though. Not sure why it would matter, unless they were OVERFILLING. Sadly, thats also a common practice that goes with hot-fills. The idea is it prevents HPA users from complaining by filling the 4500 tank to 5000psi, so it will drop to 4500psi when it cools.

Scary.

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Old 01-07-2007, 09:38 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom Mikey View Post
This thread makes me want to review how I fill my own tanks from a scuba fill kit, just to be safe. Does anyone know a thread with that kind of info?
If you are filling your own tanks from a scuba adapter, just fill them slowly. It's controlled by you after all, besides if you have tanks filled at a scuba shop the air should be clean. You shouldn't have any problems, unless you decide to go the oil in the nipple route.
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