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Old 10-28-2013, 10:48 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Love the amboyna. Made a few things from it myself. Yes it's very hard but finishes amazingly. Unique addicting smell that you'll never forget.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:03 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Oh, yeah, that's the sauce.

Don't you dare put poly on that. A little oil and wax is all you need. Butcher's block oil is typically just mineral oil, sometimes laced with beeswax, but despite its lowly pedigree it does a lovely job with highly polished woods. For the final flourish do you plan on a straight carnauba, hot off the buffer?

You know, not that it needs it, but a burl that hard could probably be taken even higher than 1,000 grit.

Not many do it, but I've heard tell some crazy folk have taken briar pipes up as high as 2,000 before buffing, some even higher.

Either way, a really sharp piece, no pun intended.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:40 AM   #83 (permalink)
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I ended up using Natural colored Minwax (3 coats) rather than the butcher block oil as I liked the color better on a cutoff.

I will wax it, more to fill the checks in the burl (there are a few).

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Old 11-11-2013, 08:35 PM   #84 (permalink)
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And things continue... knife for my wife for christmas.

Important tools.
PICT5596_resize.jpg

And the parts:
PICT5599_resize.jpg

Blade is a damascus drop point that is only about 2-3/8" long. Handle is birds eye maple with a 1/4" highlight of reconstituted turquoise. Guard is nickle silver. The handle will have a similar shape as the amboyna, just not as fat.

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Old 01-13-2014, 10:18 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Okay... I need to fund the purchase of more tooling (read as I want to be cutting and shaping my own blades this year).

So... I'm going to put together a knife in the coming month or so. Will be the 6A Stainless (japanese steel) with alternating leather and wood (I can do Padauk or Cherry) probably 3 pieces of wood rather than one block in the middle. Hardware will probably be brass. I will probably toss in some colored spacers where the differing materials meet.

It will be one of these blades:
Gula_puma.JPG

Top blade is 3" x 1-1/4" wide and 5/32" thick, OL would be around 8-3/4"

Bottom is 4 1/8" x 1" wide and 1/8" thick, OL would be around 9"

The knife would come with a leather sheath that will probably have some border tooling, and will be dyed and treated with neatsfoot oil.

Price would probably be in the $180 to $200 range plus shipping... this isn't a solid number as I still need to figure out material costs, but it seems right based on what time I have spent on other knives.

Just giving a heads up so people can save pennies if they are still interested.

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Old 01-13-2014, 12:00 PM   #86 (permalink)
ur my sister
 
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how would you rate the blades from knifekits.com? was wanting to make a nice medium sized drop point just wasn't sure on the quality of their metal.
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:15 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Easiest thing to do would be to contact them and find out where the blanks are made. If China, go elsewhere.

If they are made in Japan then you are probably good to go... with the following assumptions/info in hand:

Full tang Knives that need a bolster (the metal that is sandwiched on either side of the blade near the top of the handle below where the blade starts) or a guard held with a pin can be harder to make.

To correctly attach a bolster you need a special pin ream that is shaped like a looooong cone. This allows the pin hole in the bolster metal to be enlarged enough that when you peen the pin (say that 5 times fast) the metal of the pin has somewhere to go. It's not appropriate to just slather bolsters and pins with JB weld and smoosh them together on the blade. It's also not appropriate to try to braze them. (You braze bolsters with no pins.. or bolsters on folders as the pin is usually used as a rotating axis for the blade).

For a first knife (or third or tenth, depending on tools on hand and experience) if you want a knife that is full tang, stick with one that does not have a bolster (or one where the bolster is already affixed) or a guard that needs to be pinned. All you are doing then is cutting out the handle scales and attaching them with either pins made from metal rod or cutlery rivets or corby rivets, etc and also using some epoxy slathered in there. That's a LOT easier than dealing with peening pins.

If you really want a bolster on a knife you can try to upgrade the bolster pins to screws. But that can introduce it's own set of problems.

The only time you don't want to try to peen bolster/guard pins is if you are using mosaic pins. But at that point you are probably custom making the knife and blade anyways as mosaic pins are usually no smaller than 1/4" (give or take) and bolster pins are usually 1/8" in kit knives.

Another good first (third, tenth etc) knife is a Hidden tang. just like a bolster less full tang you can make one (when using a pre-made blade) with simple hand tools (hand drill and files).

But definitely find out where the blades are made.

They do sell a blade that has a pre-affixed guard... from the picture, it looks like there is some gapping between the guard and the blade. This is poor workmanship. You can hide it with JB weld, but in reality when you make a guard you try to keep the gaps to a minimum. It takes a lot of time with Swiss files to clean up the slot in a guard so that it fits snug. Otherwise the blade looks affordable. The only other drawback... 8 pins for the handle!!!!! Not impossible, but extra work to align everything and that much more care when drilling holes.

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Last edited by Schmitti; 01-13-2014 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:15 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Did you get the wife's gift together? Pics? Any Idea on wich grinder to get? A 2"x72" belt seems the standard for Knife making. Some diy kits seem pretty expensive I thought this was a pretty good deal for something new. Sander - 2 x 72 - Kalamazoo 2FS72M
There's also a bunch of cooler things out there 2 X 72 Grinder Rotary Indexing Platen Demo 13-12-13 - YouTube
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:52 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Honestly, start making knives from kits first before you jump in to getting a grinder like that. Then, if you like making knives in general, start making knives using a jewelers saw (for your shape) and a files for stock/metal removal on the bevels.

You don't absolutely need a 2x72. The benefit of such a long belt is it stays a little cooler and doesn't load as quickly so it lasts longer. But you can get by with shorter, narrower or wider belts... you just have to use them differently.

If you absolutely set on getting a grinder I would suggest starting smaller. Kalamazoo makes a 1x42 which would be a good tool to have even if you later went with a bigger machine.

If you were dead set on a 2x72 I would go with this one:
Grizzly.com

It comes with a buffer arbor (bonus tool but a and minus in that it's an extra thing moving that you have to watch out for). It has a removable platten and rest and you can also get a 10" wheel for it if you are doing concave bevel grinds rather than flat grinds (larger radius makes for a nicer looking concave bevel... There is a company in Norway that uses a grinding wheel that is like 10' in diameter... the grinds are concave but almost look flat).

I have hardly gotten any more done with my wifes knife. I did cut a piece of the turquoise and damn near ruined it.. it's super brittle when cutting it (I don't look forward to trying to drill it!) but I tried putting a file to it and it took it fine and didn't grenade on me.

I will post more pictures of progress when I get to them. I have some stuff to do in the kitchen in the coming weeks, but hope to sneak in some time in the shop.

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Old 01-16-2014, 09:36 AM   #90 (permalink)
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And... have been doing lots of creative artistic thinking and I have my damascus full tang almost completely planned out on paper.

Jantz Pattern 31 Damascus
Stainless Steel Bolsters Held on with Gold plated screws for that extra Shiny
Curly Maple scales (they have a nice figure to them) dyed Blue
White spacer between Scales and Tang
Now... scale pins.... trying to decide on this, may go strain up stainless steel hardware or I may use some 1/4" stainless steel thong tubes that I then just slightly expand at the throat so they look clean.

Then I'll do a hand made sheath in chocolate brown dyed leather with some light tooling.

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