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Old 03-30-2009, 11:42 PM   #101 (permalink)
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What about for the spring feed...Halving it with endcaps and having two guides kind of like the guide in a palmers spring feed...But one on each side...That way it could work pretty well and it won't cinch and you can make the interior ball pusher smaller...
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:28 PM   #102 (permalink)
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The pusher is working fine, its the feed port/spring interaction that is the problem. When retracted, the spring either shoots out of the feed port ( it does not have enough stability since it is such a small wire), or it catches on the edge of it and flips inside itself ( not good at all). Once I get rid of the spring exposure to the feedport with this mod, all will be rosy.

I am going to try to steel my wifes ID badge spring retract tonight. I will do a ghetto electrical tape mod to show that it works and fire some reballs in the basement.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:52 PM   #103 (permalink)
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i don't want the "choker" type velocity screw in the bolt... not a good idea for a 12 gram gun. please don't use that. go with the spring tension VA of some sort. i don't care how many screws you have to take out to adjust it... i'll gladly accept having to take out a couple screws rather than adjusting a "choker" screw.
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:42 PM   #104 (permalink)
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i don't want the "choker" type velocity screw in the bolt... not a good idea for a 12 gram gun. please don't use that. go with the spring tension VA of some sort. i don't care how many screws you have to take out to adjust it... i'll gladly accept having to take out a couple screws rather than adjusting a "choker" screw.

Thats what i was figuring, but I wanted to offer the option. Its external and simple, but like you said not so good on a 12 gram gun.

Thats 2 for out the back with grip screw removed.
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Old 03-31-2009, 08:35 PM   #105 (permalink)
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I'm not the type that messes with velocity adjustment much. Hopefully once I set it, I can just leave it that way for a while. But with the paint nowdays being so inconsistent in size from brand to brand that may change. I usually don't need to change bore sizers as I use a .681 sizer with most rec paint. But with the better paintballs, I find a larger sizer is needed as well as velocity adjustment. I don't think I would be playing in tourneys with this one so minimal access would be needed.

Again, I am willing to go with mix of ease for the machinist and accessability for the user. The removal of the grip screw sounds ok to me.
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:08 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Thats 3

Thanks drunkpile
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:38 PM   #107 (permalink)
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I'll bet if you could make it to where it was a slanted screw it may be easy...Hmm...I'll have to look into how it could be done but a screw slanted at 45 degrees with an end plate that hits something like a 10 penny nail on the end...As with sheridans...Then it'd allow for the adjustment etc.

Could this slant be done on the side? it may be even easier then and just one extra step which would also cheapen it...

I will have to look at your schematics to see if this system would be a viable option...
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Old 04-01-2009, 10:34 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Chrono on the way! Thanks Arsenal.
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Old 04-02-2009, 04:40 PM   #109 (permalink)
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hello senting you a pm with my info,and will be at spring castle as well .
$700 base
-$70 US No barrel.
-$15 US No Grip.
+$45 External velocity adjuster and key.
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Old 04-02-2009, 06:34 PM   #110 (permalink)
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hello senting you a pm with my info,and will be at spring castle as well .
$700 base
-$70 US No barrel.
-$15 US No Grip.
+$45 External velocity adjuster and key.
Any particular serial you would like, or is next in line ok?
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