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Old 09-11-2009, 01:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Spider!s Garage - Jeweling Stainless Mags

I'm offering stainless body jeweling as a service.

The rates are;

automag body: $40 + shipping
minimag body: $45 + shipping
Classic RT body: $50 + shipping

Barrels are by the nearest length to the bodies above.

Stainless valves: $40 + shipping (includes polishing the valve)
Stainless valves: $20 + shipping (already polished and gutted)

Maximum turnaround time will be two weeks with priority mail, unless we set some other duration.

These are based on length and some setup changes. If you have a chopped RT body or emag body, the lower price would be used. Whatever body you want done, I would rather get a picture of it before hand. If you have a custom body I haven't worked on yet (like a Luke's stock class feed tube ), I'm willing to negotiate. I may need some dimensions from you to be sure I can handle some of the different bodies and I want to be sure you understand any areas that may have to be left smooth.

The body has to be polished smooth already. It has to be stainless, not plated or coated. Also, I have been using Luke's vert feeds to start with because I can get right up to the feed neck. A power feed will keep me from getting to the body directly under the feed neck on top of the body and a hair underneath, leaving an unjeweled 'bald spot' that won't be very visible under elbows and loaders.

High polished bodies are best because consistency in the surface makes it easy to see rough spots that cause a "wash" in the jeweling and pits which come out like jeweled pits. That said, a well done 1500 grit polish is a safe starting point. The finish is durable and personally, I think it looks better with the normal layer that forms on stainless. You can polish it with Brasso, but I like it 'dirty'.

Here's what I'm talking about;












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I can now do flat surfaces and aluminum, but unfortunately I can't offer to do anodizing. I ano'd pieces to show how they look, but I'm not setup to do it reliably.

non-ano,

ano'd clear,

ano'd colored,
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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This is a good price for the effort it takes to do proper jeweling!

You should try this on aluminum, and have it anodized!

I don't have anything to jewel, but I wish you the best! Your examples look great!
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I always called that engine turning.

Beautiful, great look, great finish.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cunha View Post
I always called that engine turning.

Beautiful, great look, great finish.
Yeah, that's another name for it. I haven't figured out if there was a difference originally, but the tooling is usually labeled "jeweling" lately.

Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I wonder how it would look on a Carter.
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russc View Post
I wonder how it would look on a Carter.
I can only do cylindrical stuff for now. I would be willing to work on some different bodies or materials on a trial basis. Stainless mags are just what I'm confident with enough to offer the "service".

Irregular parts require some serious practice to be done by freehand, and I don't have the hand tools for work that fine.

I have not tried any aluminum yet. I'm working on a cross slide to let me do flat surfaces, and I would like to try the old slab sided cocker bodies. I just don't know how durable the finish will be compared to the work involved. Jeweled and waxed with nickel pneus and frame would be "purdy".

The stainless finish can be removed fairly easily with 400 grit wet/dry paper and worked back up to a polish, but that's true of most hard finishes.
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I dont know if that's my valve he has pictured there or not, but he did one for me.
These pictures do not do the job justice. These are soo pretty when you see them in person!
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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can you do this on an 87 wgp ranger body... its stainless and not coated with anything... same basic design of mag bodies just a bit smaller
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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can you do this on an 87 wgp ranger body... its stainless and not coated with anything... same basic design of mag bodies just a bit smaller
Probably, I have several mounting methods now. A pic of the body and/or some dimensions would help. PM me if you just want to email a pic to me. Length and diameter are most important.

Mags are 1" in diameter basically. When the diameter gets smaller, the pattern tightens up, like you see on the barrels. The pattern is tighter, but it still matches the pattern lines on the bodies and that is why I don't change bits or counts, just technique.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hm might eventually send you a nelson body and barrel and some other things, I like what I see.
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