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DIY Tech Specific Tech How-To's for Customizing your Gun

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Old 03-04-2011, 04:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How-To: Install UTB in Angel LCD Frame for MQ2 Sniper



Ever wanted a single trigger electro pump? Angel LCD frames can be installed on Autococker bodies by drilling an additional hole at the front of the frame inside the trigger guard. In this guide, I drilled a single Angel LCD frame to use on an MQ2'd Sniper. The guide will show you how to convert the electronics.

Parts you will need:
Scenario Dreams Universal T-Board Kit
Angel LCD Board (Please use a dead board )

Optional:
Capacitor-2200uF (ION, Eblade)



Angel LCD Board w/o the Screen Pack

The first thing you want to do is strip the board of everything but the trigger microswitch, button microswitches, and solenoid connectors (if you choose to use them). This will make it easier to cut out the board to fit a 9V battery in the frame.

Once you have all, the components out, you want to trace a 9V so you know where to cut. I would do this by mounting the board back in the frame, and tracing a 9V with the battery connector attached from on the back of the board.

This was my first attempt. Hopefully your first will turn out cleaner. I cut too low.


Most of the wiring is done on the back of the board. The specific color of wiring to the connectors depends on the harness you get form Scenario Dreams. You will need to refer to this page: Scenario Dreams, LLC. For this build, I had Wiring Harness Type B. I ran everything to the board (as shown below) except for the battery harness, capacitor, and LED.



You shouldn't have this much board left if you did it right. If you do, then you would need to cut these traces. I ended up cutting the board high enough to make that step unnecessary, since I needed more room for the battery harness and capacitor. The next post will have a pic.

After you have it all wired up, carefully stuff it into the frame:






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u4s9OwxkKU

This was my first build. I drilled the Angel LCD frame to match the grip frame hole spacing on a cocker body. The electronics power an MQ2 valve.

I learned some things along the way as I made more. The next post will show more advanced techniques...

Last edited by mxmtl; 04-22-2011 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Newer / Advanced Techniques

This is how I cut my board now:


This cut moves the battery up, leaving room for a capacitor mounted on board below.


I also wire the battery harness through a slot in the board where the capacitor leads go through.


Here is an example of using a Scenario Dreams "Connector for Spyder/Wrath solenoid/trigger" or the solenoid instead of an on-board mount. The advantage is that it's less stress on the MQ2 solenoid's connector if you are constantly tinkering with it. (What you will also see in the picture is an auto-trigger test switch.)


You can use clear grips to see the LED:


Or you can mount the LED through what used to be the charging port using a LED Panel Mount Holder:





Last edited by mxmtl; 04-06-2011 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hmmm I just gut the frame remove the old battery pack and stick the u-board in that tube. But this is an even better idea
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Do you have to remove all of the chips from the board before cutting it?

What gauge solder wire did you use?

By the what kind of duckbills are those asa's?
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdogx78 View Post
Do you have to remove all of the chips from the board before cutting it?

What gauge solder wire did you use?

By the what kind of duckbills are those asa's?
I removed as much as I could to make clamping and cutting easier.

For solder, I used .022 dia rosin core silver from Rat Shack (Radio Shack).

Those duckbills are XSV Profile ASA's.
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you don't have access to an LCD board, or you have a working board and don't want to cannibalize it, you can accomplish the same thing using a cut-to-fit breadboard from Radio Shack and mounting the rear button switches and microswitch to it.

Last edited by dr.strangelove; 03-11-2011 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I think I'm going to try the breadboard option.
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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and i'm guessing for this that the holes for the frame and the body lined up and you didn't have to drill and tap new holes?
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdogx78 View Post
I think I'm going to try the breadboard option.
I'm interested in seeing how that turns out. I considered that as well, but hacking a dead LCD board was easier for me.

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and i'm guessing for this that the holes for the frame and the body lined up and you didn't have to drill and tap new holes?
The LCD frame needed a new hole drilled at the front of the frame to install on a cocker body.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Just saw this. Awesome sauce.
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