|DIY Tech Specific Tech How-To's for Customizing your Gun|
| ||Thread Tools||Search this Thread|
|04-02-2013, 08:29 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lubbock, TX
DIY/How-To - putting an eBlade on a Shocker Sport
So - I've done two successful installations of an eBlade (E1 and E2) on to a Shocker Sport. Since then I've had several PMs asking about how it was done. So, I thought I'd post this and hopefully help others out. If there are any questions, please post them here as others may have the same questions also. I realize this won't be a wildly popular mod...but hopefully it still helps at least one person.
Note: There are no permanent modifications...except the slight clearancing of the inside of the tray (detailed below). This method does not require cutting the shocker harness in any way; and it can be returned to stock.
Another note: This will not increase the speed of the gun by much. A stock Shocker Sport itself cannot fire any faster than approx 13 bps. If you have an older board that limits the speed to 11.25 bps then you'll get a slight increase. The other advantages of this are programming without dip switches, the possibility of ramping (depending on which Eblade board you use), and an on/off switch (again depends on which Sport you're starting with).
Parts you need:
(1 ea) - Eblade frame. You can use E1, E2, NDZ, or a modded Ego frame. You do not need the pancake noid, only the frame, trigger, buttons, screws, and window.
(1 ea) - Eblade board. You can use E1, ZeroB, E2, Tadao, or UTB (I can't help you with how to program the UTB). An Ego/Etek board will not work since you need a board capable of supporting two solenoids.
(2 ea) - 10-24 or 10-32 screws 3/4" long with lock washers and nuts
(1 ea) - Digikey P/N 455-1706-ND (I would suggest ordering more than one in case you mess up...but only 1 is required. This is the connector that will plug into the factory Shocker Sport noid harness.
(2 ea) - Digikey P/N 455-1366-ND (again, I would order more than two in case of a mess up, but only 2 are required). These are the connectors that will plug into the Eblade board.
(4 ea) - Digikey P/N 455-1318-1-ND (for 28-32 gauge wire) or 455-2148-1-ND (for 24-28 gauge wire). Only 4 are required, but I would order more. These are the crimp pins that you will use on the Shocker noid side of the harness. They are crimp type and require a special tools (very expensive). I just used tiny needle nose pliers and a soldiering iron.
(4 ea) - Digikey P/N 455-1281-1-ND (for 28-32 gauge wire) or 455-1130-1-ND (for 26-28 gauge wire). Again, only 4 are needed, but order extra. As before these are crimp type and are what you will use on the Eblade side of the harness.
(1 ft) - 26-32 gauge wire. The size is up to you, and I would recommend
stranded if you can find it. You will only need 1 ft; but I would still get more.
Tools you need:
Small needle nose pliers
Crimp tool (if you have one, otherwise use pliers)
Dremel or file
Soldiering iron and soldier (somewhat optional)
Screwdriver or allen for the 10-24 or 10-32 screws
Liquid Electrical Tape (optional)
Necessary Disassembly Procedure:
1) Remove the 4 screws holding the frame and tray to the body. Gently unplug the solenoid harness from the board.
2) Remove the board from the tray. I would suggest keeping it (if it's in usable condition); but the board and screws are not required for this mod.
3) Remove the 2 1/4" screws holding the frame to the tray. Once removed, the screws and frame are not needed for this mod.
Harness Assembly Procedure:
1) Start by cutting 4 equal length pieces (approx 3" each, but you should double check the measurement on your marker) of the 26-32 gauge wire.
2) Attach them to the crimp connectors specified above for the Shocker noid side of the harness. You can use the crimp tool or needle nose pliers followed up by a quick soldier backup. Make sure they are secure.
3) Now attach the other side of the wires to the crimp connectors specified above for the Eblade side of the harness. Same procedure as #2. At this point you should have 4 wires with crimp connectors on both ends.
4) Put the wires on the 4-pin plug in any order you want (unless you have red/black - in which case you'll want two black on one side and two red on the other; like the noid harness already has). They should just slide on. You can follow up with a quick soldier backup (be gentle, the plastic of the plug will melt easily) or use liquid electrical tape...or both, which is what I did.
5) Slide the eblade pins into the eblade 2 pin plug as follows: The wires for the noid harness in an alternating fashion (as in, match the wires that come from the Shocker noid harness to the 2 pin plugs for the eblade. This will be one from the far right outside and one second from the left - the remaining pins will slide into the other 2 pin eblade plug. The harness is now complete.
Frame Fitting/Assembly Procedure:
1) Put one of the 10-24 or 10-32 screws into the rear hole of the Eblade frame, then put that into the hole in the tray for the rear frame screw of the Shocker. Now put a lock washer and nut on the inside of the tray and tighten hand tight.
2) Put the other 10-24 or 10-32 screw into the front hold of the Eblade frame, it will come out of the slot for the Shockers trigger. Slight file or dremel work will likely be required to fit the nut on the inside of the package tray. (see picture below).
3) With the tray clearanced, install the lock washer and nut on the inside of the package tray for the front screw. At this point tighten both the front and rear screw completely. The frame is now completely installed.
Harness Install Procedure:
1) Plug the 4 pin plug into the stock Shocker noid harness. It will only plug in one way.
2) Now push the two 2 pin Eblade plugs through the hole in the middle of the Shocker tray and into the frame area.
3) The Eblade board has two 2 pin plugs near the top beside the capacitor. To install them correctly, the plug with two wires that trace to the front solenoid plug into the top plug on the board. Then the two wires that trace to the rear solenoid plug into the bottom plug on the board. Plug them in.
4) Now reinstall the tray to the Shocker body, being careful not to pinch or cut any of the wires. You can tuck the extra harness length in the tray or the frame area...just make sure the battery and grips won't interfere with them. The Shocker should now be completely assembled.
*For stock noid harnesses, this the how it breaks down:
Outside black/inside red to top connector on eblade board
inside black/outside red to bottom connector on eblade board
I have used these setting for both an E1 and E2, they seem to work well.
SON/Sear On - 3 or 4 ms (You can start with 3 ms, but if you have blowback up the feedtube or shots that don't leave the barrel increase to 4 ms.
CDEL/C Delay - 5.5 ms
CON - 36 ms
CTO - set this to the lowest setting possible (I did not install an eye, so you are running the gun blind.)
COFF - 40 ms
When you turn the gun on, you will need to turn the eye off, even if CTO is set to 0 ms.
Now go shoot the gun!
Frame Modification (area circled)
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|