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Old 09-27-2010, 07:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DRV Maintenance and Repair Information

No chitchat, this is just a place for me to store links and files.

DRV :: Making a new pall spring

DRV :: Modifying your cocking pall

DRV :: How to Reinstall your valve

DRV :: How to remove your valve

DRV :: How to put the side plate back on

DRV :: Adjusting the length of your pall spring

DRV :: Installing the cylider detent
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should load those to youtube if you can - I'm pretty sure photobucket deletes everything in your account after a certain amount of inactivity.
Originally Posted by agentSmith View Post
oldschool play is about sportsmanship and respect, oldschool gear is available on Ebay.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Dude!!! no chitchat!!!!

Spare parts ( at least until I get the assembly diagrams out)

Valve body oring: #12
power tube oring: #10
body to frame oring: #10
Quick change: CCI bucket, stock, modified with 1/8" NPT nipple
Grip screws: #10-32 x 1/2" FHCS
Frame scews: #10-32 X 1" SHCS
Front block screws: #10-32 x 1/2" BHCS
Springfeed retractor: #6-32 x 1/2" Oval head ( light switch cover plate screw)
Springfeed retainer: #10-32 x 1/4" nylon tip SSS
Detent plate screws: #4-40 x 1/4" FHCS
Front side plate screw: #10-32 x 1/2" BHCS
Back side plate screw: #10-32 x 1/4" BHCS
Spring plate screw: #8-32 x 3/8" FHCS
Valve retaining screws: #10-32 x 1/4" SSS
Valve retaining pin: 1/8" x 7/8" dowel pin
Trigger pin: 1/8" x 1/2" dowel pin
Hammer pin: 1/8" x 7/8" dowel pin
Side plate hammer link pin: 1/8" x 3/8" dowel pin
Side Secondary link pin: 1/8" x 3/8" dowel pin
Cocking pall pin: 1/8" x 3/8" dowel pin
Trigger adjustment setscrew: #8-32 x 3/8" SSS
Velocity adjustment screw: 1/4"-28 SSS
Velocity adjustment retainer: #8-32 x 1/4" nylon tip SSS
Hammer screw: 1/4" x 5/8" SHSB
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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And thanks to the guys at Modern Intel :

Dukie Interview

DRV Testing[/QUOTE]
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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can we see a DSG shotgun in action...i need to see it
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Asembly drawings:
Attached Files
File Type: zip DRV ASSEMBLY (286.1 KB, 408 views)
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I hope you don't mind me posting some stuff here Dukie, if you don't want this here, let me know and I'll delete. Also let me know if I copied any of this stuff out of context.

To adjust the trigger:
You can adjust the stroke of the trigger with the little settscrew in the hole just behind it. Adjust it with it cocked. In is a shorter pull. The reason the trigger pull is so heavy is that you are actually moving the hammer with the trigger. The closer you adjust the trigger to the release position, the shorter and easier the trigger pull. If you get too close however it might beome unreliable.
right behind the trigger therer is a little hole. In that little hole there is a set screw, "loosen" (or tighten) it with an allen key ( its a #8-32).
Adjust the setscrew behind the trigger so that the hammer is almost at the release point when you cock it. That will make it much easier to fire.

To adjust the velocity:
the velocity adjustment is the set screw under the valve behind the hammer
The screw under the valve that faces the hammer, it just adjusts how far the hammer travels. If it's all the way in that's the highest fps you can get without a new spring.

CO2 Rushed out immediately
Cock it first. Thats step 1.

Check to see that the detent spring is not trapped between the detent and power tube. There may also be something in the valve preventing it from sealing.

Check to see that the set screw on top is snug ( not super tight).

Check to see if the power tube is getting hung up on the detent,

Work you power tube a few times with the hammer to see if you can clear out whatever may be in there. Generally if it leaks a little bit, its hung up. If it vents like crazy there is something in it.
WIth it degassed, turn the power tube 1/4 turn ( the rod the hammer hits) and let me know if the leak stops.

Leak out the back:
If you get a leak out the back, its either the top valve set screw is loose, or a damaged oring on the valve. You can replace it with one from the tinker kit, the larger one.

Take the valve body off the frame, remove the detent assembly from the front. remove the retaining pin and set screws. Push the valve out the back using an allen key down the power tube from the front.

Replace the oring and throw some oil on it to help it in. make suer the valve is clear of debris.

Grab a 7/16" deep socket ( or the next size smaller so that the hex fits over the powertube, and the body can slide into the valve body, every brand is a little different). push the valve in by hand, and push the puwertube through the front portion of the valve body so it does not jam. put the valve body front against you chest ( prepare to get messy possibly) and give the socket a shach with the aplm of your hand. The valve will pip in. line it up and replace the top set screw loosely. replace the pin and tighten up both set screws. Put her back together.
if it leaks out the back, the oring on the brass valve body needs replacement.

Cocking isn't smooth, or misindexes:
Thats because the spring needs to be tweeked, the pall is not returning all the way to the top after each cock. That is why you are finding it hard to cock, the pall is running into the edge of the slot and locking up.
Remove the little side plate in front of the trigger. Cut 1 loop off the spring, stretch it out a bit and reinstall. If it happens again, repeat until it does not.
If cocking isn't smooth you need to adjust the spring for the indexin pall. It is under the little surface plate right behind the cylinder, right hand side of the marker. Remove the plate, pull the spring out, cut 1 loop off the spring, strethch it out a bit and give it a twist so that it doesn't increase in diameter. Reinstall and cock it again, reapeat if needed.
You can adjust the position ( the alignment) at where it stops by loosening the 2 screws that hold the front block on. WIth the pin and cylinder in place, rotate the cylinder unitil the cylinder is in line with the body AND there is an equal gap between the cylinder and body. That should put everything in line Tighten up the back screw first.

Dukie's list:
1. If it doesn't want to move DON'T force it!!

2. Alawys cock before you gas up to help prevent ceiling splotches

3. always use your barrel bag.

4. If it feels like it won't index as you cock it, its likely the cocking pall spring. You can access that by taking out the single flat head out of the right hand side just behind the cylinder. That little plate comes off and you will see a spring under it. Remove it, clip 1 loop off and stretch it out to ~1-1/8". Reinstall and enjoy. Special thanks to the clown at castle that lost the prototype spring. It was just perfect.

5. don't remove the large plate on the right hand side. You will not enjoy putting it back on until I show you the secret.

6. You don't need any tools but allen keys.

7. If you crank down on flat heads or button heads using the allen keys, you will never, ever, ever be able to remove them again...... ever. Don't do that. Just snug them up and that is enough to keep them tight. The short end of the allen key is the one you use for a handle NOT the long end.

8. Oil is good, there are lots of sliding bits in there.

9. You can put some oil down the power tube from the front and work the valve a couple of times barrel up to get some in the air chamber.

10. If the valve leaks a little fire it once and it should seat. Its probably some crap on the face. I have lots of crap in my shop, its pernicious.

11. You can ajust the trigger to an extent with the setscrew behind it ( UNDERNEATH). If you dick with it and it stops working, I didn't do it

12. They have all been tested for leaks, and have none. I tested them multiple times. If they leak when you get them, it wasn't though lack of effor ton my part.

13. Don't remove the setscrews from the side or back of the body. ever. Those are air porting plugs, there is nothing behind them but injury. Leave them alone.

14. you need to remove your valve:
- remove the setscrew from the top
-remove the button head at the back on the right
-remove the setscrew on the left.
- push the pin out right to left with your allen key.
-push the valve out the back by inserting you allen key down the power tube from the front. push it out gently.

15. to reinsert he valve:
-push it in from the back
- push the power tube up through the white detent at the front.
-seat it in place by pushing on it from the back with a 7/16" socket ( provided its smaller than the valve)
- replace the pin, 2 setscrews and the button head.
- make sure it moves smoothly.

16. the larger oring in the bag is for the detent and valve body, the smaller is for the powertube and joint between the body and frame.
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Last edited by Ivan; 10-14-2010 at 10:00 AM.
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