Paintball

[Big Phil]

ok I will start with the easy one. My DRV is only shooting at 240fps. Now I know I can fix this by trimming the spring, but I have seen the velocity adjustment screw mentioned a few times. Which screw is it? I thought it was the big one behind the hammer but it didn't seem to do anything.

The other issue is that it is not indexing far enough every time. Its not that far off 1/16"-1/8". every few shots it lines up wrong and "SPLAT" I get to clean. I don't even know how to start with this one.

Little help?

[Crimson Death]

Originally Posted by Big Phil

ok I will start with the easy one. My DRV is only shooting at 240fps. Now I know I can fix this by trimming the spring, but I have seen the velocity adjustment screw mentioned a few times. Which screw is it? I thought it was the big one behind the hammer but it didn't seem to do anything.

The other issue is that it is not indexing far enough every time. Its not that far off 1/16"-1/8". every few shots it lines up wrong and "SPLAT" I get to clean. I don't even know how to start with this one.

Little help?

The screw under the valve that faces the hammer, it just adjusts how far the hammer travels. If it's all the way in that's the highest fps you can get without a new spring.

[dukie]

Originally Posted by Big Phil

ok I will start with the easy one. My DRV is only shooting at 240fps. Now I know I can fix this by trimming the spring, but I have seen the velocity adjustment screw mentioned a few times. Which screw is it? I thought it was the big one behind the hammer but it didn't seem to do anything.

The other issue is that it is not indexing far enough every time. Its not that far off 1/16"-1/8". every few shots it lines up wrong and "SPLAT" I get to clean. I don't even know how to start with this one.

Little help?

The set screw under the hammer slows it down, but it won't speed it up.

Your velocity is directly related to paint size and the size of your barrel. They are more affected by this than other guns due to the fact that it has a cylinder. Air DOES excape between the body, cylinder and front block. If you have larger paint and a smaller barrel more air will be forced out lowering velocity.

The alignment issue is probably also having an effect

You can adjust the position ( the alignment) at where it stops by loosening the 2 screws that hold the front block on. WIth the pin and cylinder in place, rotate the cylinder unitil the cylinder is in line with the body AND there is an equal gap between the cylinder and body. That should put everything in line Tighten up the back screw first.

I may not have tightened those 2 screws enough in the shop, and it has since moved. Don't crank on them you won't ever get them back out again.

Have you done the cocking pall modification and new spring yet?

Since you are one of the first few you should have spare springs. You can also give the SHORT spring a try in the valve. Thats actually the spring for the detent but its the same style spring.

[Big Phil]

Originally Posted by dukie

Have you done the cocking pall modification and new spring yet?

yep

[dukie]

Originally Posted by Big Phil

yep

Excellent. Try the allignment and let me know how you make out on the allignment/indexing. We will work from there.

[dukie]

Also try adjusting the trigger to 1/2 turn before release. How much you NEED to pull the trigger to cock it is not related to how much you have to index the cylinder. The two should coincide at that point. I foudn myself not cocking them far enough without the proper adjustment.

[the saint]

Check the top valve set screw that keeps the valve from moveing
if it's to tight it will bind the valve