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Old 10-31-2013, 08:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Questions for DRV owners

Hey Good sirs of MCB, I was wondering if you could answer some questions regarding the DRV because either I can't find them or they aren't there.

I'm looking for what the owners and players' experiences have been with their DRVs with a few specific questions in mind:

(1) What's the consistency over the chrono like? From the pictures and video's that Dukie has posted it looks like he completely redesigned a valve system (awesome by the way good sir) and I was wondering what the consistency was like?

(2) Whats your average efficiency? (i.e. usable shots per 12 gram...i know weather, elevation paint to bore match...just looking for players averages)

(3)In a seller's post I saw that he wrote he occasionally vents a 12 gram and then has to use oil on the next one. Is this the case for all of them or was this just his one experience?

(4) How's the indexing? In a video online (russc's I believe) he seems to be cocking the hammer and then indexing prior to shooting?

(5) What's everyone's overall impression? I've seen some people call them wall hangers and others say they use them a ton.

Thanks everyone for your input. These markers look fantastic and Dukies workmanship and attention to detail are obviously at a really high level. Just want to get everyone's actual experience with them.

Thanks for your time.
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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1. consistency is largely based on consistent paint size. Remember that it has to travels "through" 2 things. the cylinder and the barrel, vs just the barrel on everything else. PLus there is an interuption in between the two.

2. I have had everything from 15 to 35 shots per 12 gram. The last run was sitting in around 22.

3. if oil will stop it from venting, it sounds like there is a bit of gunge in the valve. or a small rough spot on the powertube or valve cap. Oil won't fix a blown valve seat lol.

4. I had some problems in the first run with the pall spring getting munched but I fixed it mid run. body alignment will also drastically affect indexing. Loose screws will make things go completley bonky. There should not be anymore issues with alignment in this run, everythign is locked together. It cannot be misaligned ( at least thats the plan lol).

5. No idea, people keep wanting to buy them though.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dukie View Post
1. consistency is largely based on consistent paint size. Remember that it has to travels "through" 2 things. the cylinder and the barrel, vs just the barrel on everything else. PLus there is an interuption in between the two.

2. I have had everything from 15 to 35 shots per 12 gram. The last run was sitting in around 22.

3. if oil will stop it from venting, it sounds like there is a bit of gunge in the valve. or a small rough spot on the powertube or valve cap. Oil won't fix a blown valve seat lol.

4. I had some problems in the first run with the pall spring getting munched but I fixed it mid run. body alignment will also drastically affect indexing. Loose screws will make things go completley bonky. There should not be anymore issues with alignment in this run, everythign is locked together. It cannot be misaligned ( at least thats the plan lol).

5. No idea, people keep wanting to buy them though.
Thanks for answering these questions. We've been wondering about them for awhile now. The drv is definitely a unique piece. It's hard not to jump on the preorder right now lol...happy wife happy life right? Must keep telling myself that.
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Just fyi everyone the answer is stock class for all questions related to paintball and to solve all paintball related problems except carbon emissions because we gotta use those 12 grams.

Double FYI for paintball rules there should be no "offer" of surrender, its either mandatory surrender at X distance when guy is behind you or no surrender and you get shot in the booty. "offer" of surrender makes for some ridiculous and dangerous john woo tactics.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not to sound like a hater... but my Gen1 was a nightmare. That is why I sold it to a shop down in florida as a wall hanger.

IT would miss index, miss align, and break paint most often and if that wasn't going on it leaked..

But I trust that Dukie worked the kinks out for Gen3.... after all we are talking first of its kind ever made.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I hear you about the first of its kind and I'm confident Dukie would have fixed the bugs or he wouldn't be having a third run.

Appreciate your honesty. They're beautiful pieces but if you can't play with them then that sucks lol.

Cheers
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Just fyi everyone the answer is stock class for all questions related to paintball and to solve all paintball related problems except carbon emissions because we gotta use those 12 grams.

Double FYI for paintball rules there should be no "offer" of surrender, its either mandatory surrender at X distance when guy is behind you or no surrender and you get shot in the booty. "offer" of surrender makes for some ridiculous and dangerous john woo tactics.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks Dukie and BOS, your responses are great!

Keep'em coming ladies and gentleman!
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah the first gens near drove me nuts. Thats why I made changes while I was assembling them. The pall change typicallly improved the pall spring life. I know I changed it while I was assembling them. I don't remember if any were sent out before I made the change. A munched pall spring would give no end of grief for indexing. random short indexes and that sort of thing.

I also changed the cylinder detent in the second run to give a more positive position to the cylinder. they worked a ton better than the first gens. Changed the spring along with that to a cone shaped spring. which made it sit flat as the cylinder was rotating.

the trigger position adjustment is a setscrew. I set them in the shop. The first gens had short setscrews. Some were moving around after I set them. SOme were dinked with y end users. Either way thats a bad thing. The hammer stroke is tied in with the cylinder rotation. if it isn't cocked all the way the cylinder is definately not in the correct position.

2nd gen had long setscrews and loctite to resolve this.

The first gen valve caps were prone to leaking..... after I shipped them. ****ing wierd. I would have them working perfectly in the shop, ship them out and they leak. So I changed from a hard seat on the valve to a pressed in urethane seat. Those seemed to work great. The second run had the same thing. But at that point they would randomly blow out of place......after I shipped them. Same thing, worked fine in the shop. I even tried to force them to blow out ( every single one). SO I sent everyone a spare cap so that they could swap them out and rebuild the blown ones.

This round I am going for a screw together valve cap. IE no loctite adhesive.

Some have had the screws loosen up and allow the body/frame/front block to be missalligned. That causes all sorts of indexing issues, chopping, hard cocking etc.

The frame/valve/front block are all doweled together this time so there sholud be no worries about missalignment if any fasteners come loose.

They have had some growing pains, and a few have come back to me for repair. I have made changes to rectify issues that have come up. mostly backwards compatible stuff.

I wasn't planning on making any more after the first run as they near drove me to drink trying to get them workng properly. People keep asking for them, so they must be liking them and playing with them.
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