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Old 02-20-2014, 02:01 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Hmm. You know, with the stock mounted a bit high, you could cut a mounting rail in the top of the SC feed, maybe with a 5 or 10 degree slope, and have a built-in angled riser. Might have to watch the length to leave room for both scope rings. Or leave a slope and screw holes for a screw-on rail.
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:30 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hmm. You know, with the stock mounted a bit high, you could cut a mounting rail in the top of the SC feed, maybe with a 5 or 10 degree slope, and have a built-in angled riser. Might have to watch the length to leave room for both scope rings. Or leave a slope and screw holes for a screw-on rail.
Genius!
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Hmm. You know, with the stock mounted a bit high, you could cut a mounting rail in the top of the SC feed, maybe with a 5 or 10 degree slope, and have a built-in angled riser. Might have to watch the length to leave room for both scope rings. Or leave a slope and screw holes for a screw-on rail.
I can put a ramp on the top. It is only delrin however. screw holes would be problematic as rails never seem to have the same spacing.

Whats everyone using for a rail angle with first strikes?

Bolt action mod. lift and pull with modification to the body. I cut both sides so that both pump bolts are still used. That doesn't make it ambi, the left side would swivel up. slotting is probably a DIY job. I just wanted to make sure it would work properly.

New breech liner. Autococker threaded. It also includes an AR barrel mounting thread so a d-ring and barrel nut can be installed. Which means you could use AR forearms. It also means you can't use a pump however. The pump guide is just barely in the way of the threads. Bolt action only with that I think.

And of course I threw on the rain cover for fun

I'll put up pricing shortly in the dealers section. Please point people that might be interested in the right direction. I don't frequent other forums, and I would feel a little rude just signing up to post a sales thread.

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Old 02-20-2014, 11:17 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Whats everyone using for a rail angle with first strikes?
I've wondered that myself. According to uvhalo's chart, there's about a 330" drop at 100 yards.

External Ballistics, The First Strike Round, and Paintballs

That's about 11 degrees, so 10 would be right for 100 yards, but I think 5 degrees would be more practical for about 70 yards.
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:57 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I've wondered that myself. According to uvhalo's chart, there's about a 330" drop at 100 yards.

External Ballistics, The First Strike Round, and Paintballs

That's about 11 degrees, so 10 would be right for 100 yards, but I think 5 degrees would be more practical for about 70 yards.
I don't think 10 degrees would work anyways. with a 14" barrel you would be mostly looking at the tip of it assuming a 2" scope center off the top of the feed block
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I don't think 10 degrees would work anyways. with a 14" barrel you would be mostly looking at the tip of it assuming a 2" scope center off the top of the feed block
Yeah, I put a protractor on a point sight setup, and it was about 5 degrees.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:50 PM   #27 (permalink)
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http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps709989b3.jpg

Sc feed Fits frontyways and backways. Accepts standard phanton feed tubes and caps.

A proper grip looks a ton better in my opinion. even though thats a milsig grip which doesnt follow the standard and actually doesnt fit lol. My adapter DOES follow the standard. The install went pretty smooth. I took descriptive pictures. It wont come off ever again lol.
Can we see the descriptive photos Dukie? I have one of these coming my way soon.
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Old 05-16-2014, 01:21 PM   #28 (permalink)
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How about those install pics for the grip frame mod? Mines here and i'm itching to install it
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Old 05-16-2014, 05:14 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Forgot about that.

im uploading them to photobucket now.

ill start posting them.. no questions untill the words are in place.
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Old 05-16-2014, 05:17 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Use the adapter as a guide to mark and cut the grip off. Leave extra material on the frame.





file the face on the bottom so its flat.

put the adapter in and use it as a guide for judging how much more you need to file on the back of the trigger guard. Remove, file, check, repeat.



Install the adapter in its final position. Use a small drill bit through the holes to mark the frame where you need to drill it. Remove the frame and drill through thse marked spots with a drill slightly larger than the supplied screws. I repeat. Remove the adapter from the frame first.

CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOU CAN PUT THE SCREWS IN!!!!!!



get some marine 2 part epoxy. The white stuff. The clear 5 minute didnt work for me. follow the instructions to mix it and slather some on the adapter. careful not to get it on the exposed surfaces. I used one of those insta mix syringes with the long mixing tip on it.




install the adapter in the frame. install the screws to that the OTHER end is flush with the underside of the adapter. DO NOT LEAVE THEM STICKING OUT BELOW. You won't be able to install your grip if you do.



fill the 4 openings as shown with more epoxy to bury the screws completely. The idea is to give the screws some depth of material so that they don't just rip through the very thin layer of plastic on the bottom edge of the frame.





Wipe off the excess epoxy careflly and tape it up securely and leave it the hell alone until tomorrow. Make sure you stand it up so that the pools are upright or it will all run out on your workbench over the next few hours. Marine epoxy takes 24 hours to fully cure. It WILL come loose if you don't leave it alone. Leave it alone.

I mean it.

Seriously.



Go over the joints with a black sharpie to color in and remaining white and go play

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Last edited by dukie; 05-16-2014 at 06:07 PM.
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