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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Nazi-Treasure Hunter Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,691
| The manual said something like either 10 cases of paint or 10,000 shots. Mine ran out, but that's just because I couldn't stop clicking that damn electro trigger. I played 3 days with it, shot maybe a case, and the batteries where great.
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Wild World pump tournament in Fayetteville, AR! F/S/T Virtue board-Virtue eyes-Etek1-Copper annoed-Zick-Cure F/S/T OC/SC Feed-Side Car-CP barrel-Sniper-Mini-Midget-Halfblock- CCM Works Autococker | |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Got Rage? Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,901
| My only concern would be about the eye covers/screws. Can someone link me to the upgrade parts I'd need to take care of those issues? Thanks!
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| | #13 (permalink) | |
| Nazi-Treasure Hunter Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,691
| Just leave them as they are, and if you have to take them out for cleaning, only screw them in until it doesn't wiggle, NO MORE. I'm sure Proto has done something about this.
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Wild World pump tournament in Fayetteville, AR! F/S/T Virtue board-Virtue eyes-Etek1-Copper annoed-Zick-Cure F/S/T OC/SC Feed-Side Car-CP barrel-Sniper-Mini-Midget-Halfblock- CCM Works Autococker | |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Got Rage? Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,901
| So what's stripping out? The holes in the body, the hex in the screw, the threads in the screw or some part of the plastic cover?
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Nazi-Treasure Hunter Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,691
| IIRC(It was a couple months ago), it was the hex. If you just twist it tihgt using the short part of the allen key, it shouldn't do anything, though.
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Wild World pump tournament in Fayetteville, AR! F/S/T Virtue board-Virtue eyes-Etek1-Copper annoed-Zick-Cure F/S/T OC/SC Feed-Side Car-CP barrel-Sniper-Mini-Midget-Halfblock- CCM Works Autococker | |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 104
| Yeah, the hex part of the eye cover screws are pretty fragile. Do NOT over- tighten these screws. The early release SLG’s had issues with the rubber detents and with ball roll back. Both of these issues have been resolved by Dye (spring detents and longer bolt). Unless you buy one that has somehow been sitting around since the first shipment you should not have these problems. If you do get one with issues Dye is happy to fix them, but you do have to send your gun in. I think for $200 the gun is a good value but does “need” some upgrades in my opinion. The stock feedneck with orings removed will fit an unsanded Halo pretty well, but I always go for a clamping neck. An on/off ASA is another add-on that I always like to have. The stock trigger with spring removed is decent, but both the UL trigger and the NDZ Slick trigger feel much nicer. If you’re not worried about walking 15bps in semi it should not be an issue. The barrel is another thing that will probably get replaced by most people, but the stock one is not horrible. But even if you do keep it completely stock it will perform very well. I had it up to 20bps ramping with a Halo and no problems. Kick is minimal (especially compared to a blowback like you were considering), and a little loud with the stock barrel, but not bad with a longer one. Other than that it looks/feels great. Very small and light and good efficiency. Not a huge fan of the large plastic frame, but the grips are fairly comfy. |
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