Paintball

[jakeman7676]

Would it be hard or expensive to add eyes to this marker? Also whats the difference between gen e and dm3 and lcd matrix. Are they just different names?

[gunner79]

no, not to hard or difficult at all, drill some holes in the dead air chamber, then mount the eye carrier and breech.

(sorry it is a little more involved then that but that is the short version)

and the few differences between the Gen-E and the Dye matrix 03
the "DM3" had some milling on the trigger frame and the milling on the sides are milled back further then the Gen-E and they generally had Eyes and a LCD board

and by looking at your picture, it looks like a Gen-E body with a Dye trigger Frame

PM me if you need more help

[Groucho]

From my friends at matrix owner.
Additional parts needed new price listed
1. Eye Carriers
2. eyes
3. Eye ready board
4. Aced breech
Cost would be about 60-150 to upgrade. dpending on used or new parts.

Open the three grip panel screws from the lcd screen side
* Disconnect the battery and solenoid connector from the board
* Open the two screws that hold the body to the frame and take off the frame
* Screw the plugs out from both ends of the dead air chamber.
* Take out the two screws holding the solenoid in place and remove the solenoid from the gun along with the wires and the battery connector. Be careful pulling out the wires so they don’t break. Plug the hole between the battery compartment and the solenoid compartment with paper towel to prevent shavings from even getting into that area.



* Drill a hole to the dead air chamber for eye wires. This is easiest to do from the hole were solenoid and power wires are connected to the board. First drill two small holes in line and then drill them with a bit larger drill so the holes are connected to each other. The small white connector on the eye wires must fit thru this hole, the bigger you make it the easier it is to get the connector thru it.






* After you have done the holes clean up all the metal shavings especially around the solenoid housing.
* Then push the white connector into the dead air chamber from the front of the gun and when you see the connector thru the hole you drilled pull it up. Since we are talking about the Gen-E/Tadao style of eye installs you would need to feed the wires in from the hole that was drilled into the front breech area, NOT the open front of the dead air chamber. It should look like this




The image below shows the location of the hole for the 2-piece style of breech. This includes ANY 2-piece breech style be it Gen-E, TMC, DYE, Evolve or Toxic. The hole should be 1/4" to 5/16th" and can be positioned by placing the carrier part of your 2-piece breech in the breech area where it belongs and marking the spot. I will get a pic of this.



Once the hole has been drilled you can run your wires from the front hole to the back hole. I find it easier to do this by removing the white plastic piece on the eye harness. This can be done easily by slightly lifting on the hold down tab on each of the wire spots on the connector. REMEMBER THE ORDER OF YOUR WIRES, THEY NEED TO GO BACK IN THE PLUG THE SAME WAY. Once the wires are through the dead air chamber you can put your white plug back on and install the eyes in the eye carrier. I will get pics of this process also.

Finally reassemble your marker and go out and smoke some fools.

[jakeman7676]

Wow thanks, that helped alot.

Another question, do you think it would make soup everytime with out the eyes? I have a ricochet ak hopper so I'm not sure if it would feed fast enough. Your thoughts?

[Groucho]

Originally Posted by jakeman7676

Wow thanks, that helped alot.

Another question, do you think it would make soup everytime with out the eyes? I have a ricochet ak hopper so I'm not sure if it would feed fast enough. Your thoughts?

`

It can be sent so it can not break paint with out eyes. pm me a pic of which board you have.

Here is how to set your regs to not chop paint
Five simple steps to setting your LPR PBC

NOTE: Some LPR's (PBC) can not be turned all the way in and it will cause you bolt to remain stuck forward.

1. Turn in your LPR 3/4 to all the way in.

2. Set your velocity via the inline regulator.

3. While taking slow shots over the chronograph slowly turn out your LPR until you see a drop in your velocity( +/- 10 Fps).

Note: Bad paint or Barrel to paint match can cause jumps in FPS

4. Turn your LPR back in about 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn to obatian consistency in FPS.

5. Walk your trigger as fast as you can. If you nottice dropoff or shootdown turn your LPR in a smidgen.

[jakeman7676]

It has an LCD board, I would take a pic but its not mine. I am thinking of buying it though and just wanted to know a little more about it (first electro and such).

~ Price: $125 shipped
~ Stock body & bolt
~ Stock gripframe w/new grips
~ Aftermarket trigger
~ Red vollies
~ Aftermarket PCB lpr
~ WGP hpr
~ 14" Cocker threaded barrel
~ LCD elec/board
~ No eyes
^^ those are the specs according to the seller.

I did read threw a pdf manual and it talked about setting the forward and backward pulses to help prevent chopping and adjust velocity. It also talked about adjusting the lpr like you mentioned. So by doing those two things I can prevent chopping and not need the eyes?

[Groucho]

Originally Posted by jakeman7676

So by doing those two things I can prevent chopping and not need the eyes?

Correct. As long as you set the pressure low enough

[gunner79]

well if all else fails, Ask Groucho

[Groucho]

Originally Posted by gunner79

well if all else fails, Ask Groucho

who meeee

[doom-king]

If tuned to have lowest bolt pressure you can bounce the bolt off your thumb without it hurting. Making it next to impossible to chop a ball.
Yes an lcd board can support eyes
and that is a very good deal based mainly for the trigger and the vollies, and condition of the ano