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Old 11-18-2012, 01:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Painting professionally

I'm looking into painting cars, motorcycles or anything that can be painted.

Mainly for friends and my personally own enjoyment and projects I have to do.


Now with this being said I do not want arguments on this subject or anything.
I'm here looking for tips, what I would need, what I should watch for.

I'm not here to make a business out of this or any type of money. just looking to acquire another skill and to hook friends up.


Friend is looking for a few cars being painted and I'd like to help him.

what would I need to start off with?
What should I look for?
where do I get paint?
Flake?
so on so fourth.


Thank you.

Mitch
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Most importantly, you would need a dust free area to paint...and painting is easy, prep is not.
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ta2maki View Post
Most importantly, you would need a dust free area to paint...and painting is easy, prep is not.
I can manage that. I got a few areas where I can get everything cleaned and no dust.

Thank you, never thought about that.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would strongly recommend taking a few classes at your local community college on auto body repair and refinishing before attempting this venture.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Prep is always the most important...No shiny spot ANYWHERE after sanding, all must be dull, finished sanding usually anywhere from 400 Grit to 600 Grit and then can apply the paint

Stay away from Tri-coats ( a type of basecoat application that is a pain in the arse! )

Poly Urethane is the best type of Automotive paint

Many Technical Data Sheets on ClearCoats/Primers/Paints are availabel on line and are a valuable resource to look over for application methods/dry times/topcoating/mix ratio's etc

Single Stage is always the cheapest route to go ( mostly available in solid colors ), as you are jut applying layers of paint on a surface ( and no Clear Coat ), compared to basecoat where you have to add on the cost of Clear Coat to put over top

As for guns...Iwata or Sata, but everyone has there own preference

Have a work area that is DUST FREE, GOOD VENTILATION, AND KEEP THE HEAT AROUND 70F ( more or less ) WHEN APPLYING PRIMER/CLEARCOAT AND OR PAINT
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Any place that can produce 'RUSH' is alright by me.

Last edited by CanadianBlues; 11-18-2012 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by B_i_s_c_u_i_t View Post
I would strongly recommend taking a few classes at your local community college on auto body repair and refinishing before attempting this venture.
this will come in time. I'm just looking into what I need to know before I begin :]
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CanadianBlues View Post
Prep is always the most important...No shiny spot ANYWHERE after sanding, all must be dull, finished sanding usually anywhere from 400 Grit to 600 Grit and then can apply the paint

Stay away from Tri-coats ( a type of basecoat application that is a pain in the arse! )

Poly Urethane is the best type of Automotive paint

Many Technical Data Sheets on ClearCoats/Primers/Paints are availabel on line and are a valuable resource to look over for application methods/dry times/topcoating etc

Single Stage is always the cheapest route to go ( mostly available in solid colors ), as you are jut applying layers of paint on a surface ( and no Clear Coat ), compared to basecoat where you have to add on the cost of Clear Coat to put over top

As for guns...Iwata or Sata, but everyone has there own preference

Have a work area that is DUST FREE, GOOD VENTILATION, AND KEEP THE HEAT AROUND 70F ( more or less ) WHEN APPLYING PRIMER/CLEARCOAT AND OR PAINT

I think I may have an area for sure to start in at least.

also thanks a lot for all the paint you posted will look into that as well!


What type of gun should I start off with? As I'll be mainly doing my own paint for awhile till I get a good grasp of it.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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There are alot of guns out there that run from low end to high end, and not sure what autobody supply places you have locally or what brands they carry, probably best bet would be a Devilbiss for starting out, IWATA is a bit of money, as well as SATA

but with paint guns, they come with different size aircaps ( 1.0 1.3, 1.4, 1.6 and the biggest I seen was 3.5 etc etc ) some are best for primer application, some are good for paint and some are better for Clearcoats. Alot of the painter's I supply literally have at least 10 different guns. Because it is cheaper to buy another gun with the aircap set up you need rather than the conversion kit to change over the gun you have now
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Any place that can produce 'RUSH' is alright by me.

Last edited by CanadianBlues; 11-18-2012 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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jump in with both feet. get something and try it out. a HVLP gun is almost a must, as well as a top feeder. but you can pick up a bottom feed(siphon) gun for much cheaper. just find something and paint it. the best way is to make mistakes and learn from them. see what you are doing wrong and think how you should fix it. its not rocket science. hell, you can start small with an airbrush, just to get some technique in, then graduate to the automotive type guns.

but having a good large compressor is a big thing. if you can't get air, or the compressor is always building running, your flow for the gun will suffer. and get a good water separator with it. water in the airline will ruin any good paintjob, no matter who good you are, how good your prep is, or who expensive the equipment is.
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Old 11-18-2012, 03:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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For some cheap good practice paint...always ask any autobody supply place for mis-tinted paint, they will have some or they are lying. And they will sell it CHEAP! it's because a toner they put into a mix ( either to much of it or not enough ) changed the color on it and is no good to their customer, yet it is still perfectly good paint and they try to get what they can for it, just might be a weird color thats all, but great for practice and understanding the product. Might have to buy some hardener and or reducer for it though,
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