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Old 01-24-2013, 02:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Car Problem

05 Mazda3
2.3L DOHC engine
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Had some issues with it starting hard (Turning over slowly at first then started) the last few days. Figured it was just because of the cold the last few days (Single digits and below zero)

This morning -19*F and Nothing, can't even here the solenoid clicking. Battery is new this past summer and tested fine with a "load tester". My guess is unfortunately that the starter needs to be replaced.

Agree, disagree?

Going to check fuses and try tapping the starter this afternoon when I get home, just wondering if anyone can think of something I might be missing.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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tap the solenoid a few times. bridge the connectors on it to see if you get a spark.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Definitely sounds like the battery. It sounds like a low voltage situation. If you cross your terminals and it fires over you can start looking at the solenoid. If it doesn't see if you can get the battery checked. Even though it's fairly new that doesn't mean a whole lot anymore, I've noticed batteries have really gone down hill in quality in the last 5 years or so. Best of luck!

"Load testing" Doesn't mean a whole lot either. I had this exact same thing happen on my 2k4 nissan frontier last winter. brand new battery, showing that it was "good to go" wouldn't fire over a tiny 4cyl motor when it was cold. after some investigating it turns out that the battery would show correct voltage when it wasn't powering headlights or the like but wasn't completely recharging. Swapped the battery over to one that wasn't the cheapest thing walmart sold and the problem was solved.

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Old 01-24-2013, 03:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What are the cold cranking amps on the battery? Personally, I don't buy anything that is under 800 CCA for where I live. The two best things you can do to help winter starting is a good battery and full synthetic oil.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What are the cold cranking amps on the battery? Personally, I don't buy anything that is under 800 CCA for where I live. The two best things you can do to help winter starting is a good battery and full synthetic oil.
This is great advice. With the oil go for a 0W-?? whatever you car calls for (5W-30 = 0W-30; 10W-20 = 0W-20).
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you turn your key in the "on" position and your dash doesn't light up/nothing happens, it's your battery. Also, using thinner oil will help with cold starts. So if your car uses 10w-30, during the winter you could use 5w-30.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Also, using thinner oil will help with cold starts. So if your car uses 10w-30, during the winter you could use 5w-30.
I have done "test" of leaving a quart of full synthetic and conventional oil my car over night when the temps have hit-50F. The full synthetic (amsoil) was still poorable, but just barely. The conventional oil was basically very thick molasses that wouldn't come out of the container.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Are the battery terminals corroded at all? Ground have a solid connection?
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elraido View Post
I have done "test" of leaving a quart of full synthetic and conventional oil my car over night when the temps have hit-50F. The full synthetic (amsoil) was still poorable, but just barely. The conventional oil was basically very thick molasses that wouldn't come out of the container.
Thinner oil could be synthetic or conventional.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thinner oil could be synthetic or conventional.
Thinner doesn't always mean better. Synthetic has a physical lower freezing point than conventional. Thinner is just that, thinner oil so isn't as thick when it gets cold.
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