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Old 01-31-2013, 12:00 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Much thanks to you, sir. I can use all the help I can get! I just want the best bang for my buck, seeing as I don't have a lot to spend. Like you said, the speakers themselves don't have to have too much bass, as the subs will be giving me all I need.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:19 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Still below your $100 mark, I elect these.
Pioneer TS D6902R 6x9" 2 Way Speakers 6" x 9" 720 Watts 12562881898 | eBay

A bit more than the A's; but you drop those silly super tweeters, pick up a 12db crossover (just like the component's crossovers; but the parts are located on the speaker), and, trust, better quality materials (large soft dome tweeter= lower extension, more mellow high end). This is their higher end line, and the highest in the 6x9's. I just purchased a set of the D class componenets for my cousin's Kia Koup; but haven't installed them yet.

Purchase these, screw replacing the rears; and if you don't like them, I'll buy them from you for what you payed (barring any defects manufactured or made during installation or use ). When you put your new radio in, try checking out how everything sounds without the rear speakers before buttoning up the radio and dash. I bet you'll agree that they aren't necessary.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:30 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Looks good! Come next paycheck I'll order them. I'll have the deck within a week or so, so I'll get that installed and everything ran to the amp and such, and I'll get the speakers when I can.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:38 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Btw, no bother. I love goofing with car audio. Beyond the ever expanding pile of paintball parts in my house is a mass of audio gear gathering dust, awaiting builds I'll never get around to. Love with big hugs and kisses. This, that, and gokarts are my hobbies. And karaoke; but that's another subject entirely. Oh, and billiards; the cue count keeps rising also.

One other thing to keep in mind. If you happen to get the door speakers before the radio, be mindful weary of attaching the new speakers to the stock radio (I'm assuming it's still stock right now). Many factory radios use different impedances (ohms) in their factory speakers. Check the factory speakers impedance before attempting to install the new speakers. If the factory radio calls for a speaker with an impedance higher than the 4ohm replacement, you could burn up the radio's internal amp very quickly; if it calls for a lower impedance, your speakers won't be as loud as you would expect.

Also keep this in mind; 6x9's, being as large as they are, generally need more power than a radio can supply (radios-20/25watts, 6x9's will handle roughly 45watts rms and up). If you experience a lack of volume after installing, an external amp will be necessary to bring out the speakers full potential. Those D's above have a sensitivity of 90db @1w/1m, that's respectable and on par; but have a rated rms of 80watts. Not that it is a given, but keep this in mind. If you decide that you'd like to add an amp but are low on funds, hit me up. I have amps out the wazoo, and could hook you up with something nice on the cheap.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:51 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Just noticed you are going to be putting these in a ram. That kind of changes options. I for one didn't realize rams took 6x9's in the doors(that is a really uncommon door speakers,usually in rear decks) In my 03 ram I actually ended up running 6 3/4 components up front(can mount the tweeter right where the upper screw holds on the door). Ran 6 3/4 in the rear and a 12 inch kicker sub off a jbl 1200 watt amp. Oh also am running a kenwood deck since I stole the alpine out of it to put in my other car. It's a regular cab so it has more sound than you could ever want from a truck ha. But long story short you might want to look into a nice set of components for the front and ignore the rears like danssoslow was saying.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:53 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I won't be getting the speakers before the radio. I'm getting the radio hopefully Saturday, and will order the speakers whenever I can. I ran the power wire from the battery to where the amp will be just a few minutes ago. I went to O Reilly's and got 21 18gauge butt connectors, a spool of 18gauge wire for the remote wire, and a RCA cable. Turns out the RCA cable I bought has a molded in 18gauge remote wire, I just didn't know it. I'll be taking the spool of wire back. So, I need to run that, buy and install the radio, and then I can hook the subs up. I'll get the speakers whenever I can, but at least I'll have my subs up and running.
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:41 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Keep the 18g wire, don't use that wire in the center of the rca's to run the remote. That wire is intended to be grounded to prevent a noise due to a floating ground; and only on the receiver end (iirc). Running power through it will induce noise; sometimes a lot, sometimes a little. No need intaking the chance and having to change things after the truck is together.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Meh, good to know. So, just tape the ends and keep it unhooked completely?
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:47 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I generally just cut off any exposed wire and stick a piece of electrical tape over the end. Keep the length in case you do have any induced noise, then you can tie the radio's end to the chassis.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:39 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Tip for your sub box. Make sure you screw that bad boy in. I could only see two screws in the picture. Anything you can do to make a better seal in the box will give you better output. You can run a bead of silicone around the corners of the inside of the box and around the wire coming out if a terminal cup wasn't used. Good luck
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