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Old 03-04-2013, 01:46 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tymcneer View Post
*If* there is a vacuum modulator on the transmission (I don't know... I'm not a Mitsubishi guy) make sure it is functioning properly. When I did the transmission rebuilt on the old Ford van, the VM was damaged, and would not allow it to shift, unless you manually shifted it into 1st... As soon as you put it in any other gear the transmission would stop transmitting power.

Ty
I shifted it into first and reverse same issue through all gears.
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So?
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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No idea beyond that. I generally work on American muscle car stuff.

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Old 03-04-2013, 07:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Side-Swipe View Post
I shifted it into first and reverse same issue through all gears.
Start by dropping the transmission pan and making sure everything is good their and replacing the filter. It sounds like a pressure issue so if something is blocked, like a filter or a passageway that would be a somewhat easy fix. Make sure all the little check balls are in place if it's a mechanical. Usually with the solenoid electronic type you only lose pairs of gears, not everything.

It very likely is a broken or clogged transmission pump and on that kind of car your better off finding a new transmission in a junkyard or from a dismantler, it's not worth the cost of rebuilding. On most cars (at least the rwd ones i've dealt with) the pump is the first part of the automatic transmission right after the bellhousing so it can be replaced without taking the whole thing apart, but good luck finding just that or someone that wants to part with only a pump and not the whole transmission. And if you guess wrong the paid labor, or, what your time is worth, you'd of been better off replacing the whole thing.

The thing that worries me is if something is clogged and it's NOT leaking, you could of blown out every seal in the thing. Usually if it's a pump the sure sign of that is it leaks everywhere in huge amounts. Also you have to wonder what would cause the clog, considering trans are sealed (hint, a bunch of small parts that exploded and jammed up everything).

If its not something you can fix with just a simple fluid and filter change run away. If the car's insured push it out into a field and light it on fire. Because your going to be spending some serious money.

Last edited by boo; 03-04-2013 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boo View Post
Start by dropping the transmission pan and making sure everything is good their and replacing the filter. It sounds like a pressure issue so if something is blocked, like a filter or a passageway that would be a somewhat easy fix. Make sure all the little check balls are in place if it's a mechanical. Usually with the solenoid electronic type you only lose pairs of gears, not everything.

It very likely is a broken or clogged transmission pump and on that kind of car your better off finding a new transmission in a junkyard or from a dismantler, it's not worth the cost of rebuilding. On most cars (at least the rwd ones i've dealt with) the pump is the first part of the automatic transmission right after the bellhousing so it can be replaced without taking the whole thing apart, but good luck finding just that or someone that wants to part with only a pump and not the whole transmission. And if you guess wrong the paid labor, or, what your time is worth, you'd of been better off replacing the whole thing.

The thing that worries me is if something is clogged and it's NOT leaking, you could of blown out every seal in the thing. Usually if it's a pump the sure sign of that is it leaks everywhere in huge amounts. Also you have to wonder what would cause the clog, considering trans are sealed (hint, a bunch of small parts that exploded and jammed up everything).

If its not something you can fix with just a simple fluid and filter change run away. If the car's insured push it out into a field and light it on fire. Because your going to be spending some serious money.
Haha nooooo. My friend has a 5speed trans and driveshaft for 100 dollars (he got it with a motor he bought.) He also has a flywheel, and the little odds and ends. All I really need to buy is a clutch and the pedals. I sold my first car to a friend and he should have the pedals for me. I think all said and done, Ill walk away with a $500 dollar bill for the parts acquisition. All I need to do is convince my parents and sister to borrow their garage again and drop the trans over a weekend and put the manual in place. Hardest part is I need to fab up a transmission mount extension because the automatic trans mount sits further back. Times like this makes me happy I taught myself to work on cars out of necessity.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:35 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I've never heard of an auto to manual being done in a weekend. Especially if you don't have a complete donor car side by side. Lots more parts differ then you might think. Stuff like engine ECU's, dashboards, steering column, crossmember, transmission tunnel, etc. Good luck, hope you have lots of disposable income and really like this car.
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:06 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by boo View Post
I've never heard of an auto to manual being done in a weekend. Especially if you don't have a complete donor car side by side. Lots more parts differ then you might think. Stuff like engine ECU's, dashboards, steering column, crossmember, transmission tunnel, etc. Good luck, hope you have lots of disposable income and really like this car.
This is a car I am passionate about that I know every little modification, piece of history and standard operating procedure off. Its also Japanese and 80's meaning easy to work on and doesn't need a bunch replaced.

Same ECU, dashboard, steering column, crossmember, the auto trans tunnel is bigger.

Literally its
-weld bracket on for clutch pedal
-punch the holes for the clutch master and slave.
-install pedals
-Cut shifter hole in trans tunnel half an inch longer up top
-install flywheel and clutch
-after removing flexplate and automatic trans
-remove automatic shifter bezel and install manual one (2 minute job)
-bolt up trans
-Bridge the neutral safety switch wires (already done)
-install lines from master and slave
-adjust idle
-weld up a trans mount (moderately easy)
-install rubber shift boot over shifter hole and shifter

Its one of the easiest manual swaps there are with the exception of the 240sx. The motor doesn't even need to come out.
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Last edited by Side-Swipe; 03-05-2013 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:50 AM   #18 (permalink)
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with all project cars, and especially when embarking on a first time project for yourself, always budget far more time than you think is necessary

don't let hubris in regard to time management bite you in the arse . . . I've seen too many 3am wrenching sessions because people were overly optimistic about how easy a project would be. And even the simplest task can balloon to nightmarish proportions.
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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with all project cars, and especially when embarking on a first time project for yourself, always budget far more time than you think is necessary

don't let hubris in regard to time management bite you in the arse . . . I've seen too many 3am wrenching sessions because people were overly optimistic about how easy a project would be. And even the simplest task can balloon to nightmarish proportions.
I know all too well. I had what was supposed to be a 2 day engine swap balloon to a 4 month engine build.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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So it seems to be fine after adding some Lucas slip stopper and letting it sit for a day or two. But I am thinking its probably because the oil is thick since its really cold in chicago.
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