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Old 08-19-2014, 04:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I noticed there are very few solid brass dice sets for sale on e-bay. The brass plated ones are selling for $50 + shipping.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm CAD trained, not CNC trained. They cross over at points, I hope to get machines in the future (related or not), and if I do, I'll put them to use. That does mean I'm planning on getting things done through a 3D printer, and can mold from there...
I actually do hope to have metal dice made and imported, but no luck on that front so far.
Artisan Dice makes metal dice now. I really want some of their nice sets, but they're expensive.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Deus Machina View Post
I'm CAD trained, not CNC trained. They cross over at points, I hope to get machines in the future (related or not), and if I do, I'll put them to use. That does mean I'm planning on getting things done through a 3D printer, and can mold from there...
[/I]
Same here. I can CAD just fine, I'm slowly learning CNC. In the meantime, use something like shapeways.com for your masters and then make some soft molds of those out of something like OOMOO 30 from smoothon.com. Not a very high margin, but it will get the ball rolling and you can at least be working on projects instead of just waiting.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yup, I'm going to reinstall AutoCAD (2014 if that works out, or revert to 2010 if I can't get used to it), teach myself Inventor, and get some stuff printed. I'll make molds from there.

I should already have some masters on the way. I'll be cleaning them up and molding ASAP.

Then I need to get used to how the resin works out and decide on colors for the first run.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yup, I'm going to reinstall AutoCAD (2014 if that works out, or revert to 2010 if I can't get used to it), teach myself Inventor, and get some stuff printed. I'll make molds from there.

I should already have some masters on the way. I'll be cleaning them up and molding ASAP.

Then I need to get used to how the resin works out and decide on colors for the first run.
The biggest advice I have on the resins is to mix volumes 4oz or larger. For example, when I was first testing my first mold, I only poured maybe 1.5oz total. It might have been that it wasn't stirred well enough, but the part never fully cured. It never got harder than a dried out gummy bear, when it should have been a hard plastic. When I had more molds finished, I mixed enough to fill them all (8oz total) and with a good stir for 20 seconds, the parts all cured just as desired. I have gone as low as 4oz without issues. I had to do this because near the end of the material in my bottles, the resin was starting to cure before I could fill my 4 molds. Instead, I tried filling 2 per pour, and I was able to do that before the resin started to thicken up.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Well, just got some donor dice secured.
Now for mold material and deciding where to put the sprue holes.
Then for resin, and deciding on colors and where to put in glitter and such.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I would put an edge as the highest point, like an A-frame roof. Then have the pour hole on one corner and the vent hole on the other corner.
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Yeah, these have sprue marks already. They need just a little cleaning. Not an issue, I cleaned up the dice as they are, and will clean up the molds further later.

They only have one, and need some nice sharp corners... Some I can do like that, will need to run the pour hole at an angle. Others, I'm not sure yet. I'll figure that out.

Here and I was worried about making a big enough hole to let resin pour in. Figured I'd mix it in squirt bottles to help that. I hadn't thought about a vent hole.
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Prior to doing a vent hole in my molds, things were a nightmare. I later used a LEGO cone, like for a rocket, when pouring the mold to get a pour spout. If not, you will be cutting the area open wider because you can't pour down a pin hole. By using a cone, you have a small sprue by the part, but a large enough opening at the surface so you can actually pour into it without spilling everywhere.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:46 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yeah, I was going to find something cone-shape, but I think this just made things easier.
Thanks for the tips!
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