Car question.... - Page 4

Christian Nelson · 05-14-2008, 01:13 PM

No, what you said was "Why has this discussion gone any further?" because this guy announced his certification before he gave his opinion.

I too was employed full time as an automotive technician. I too was ASE certified, and know just a little bit about cars.

The other responder who was disagreeing with him sounds like he's in school where he's studying this stuff.

You come in, and tell the rest of us to shut up because the one guy announced his certs.

Do I have to list off my certs anytime I give an opinion for it to be valid?

I gave references, that anyone could check for my reasoning behind my given opinion. The other guy, just gave anecdotal opinion.

I also have various certs in Computer stuff too, I am always getting sent all over the place to take this test or that, or take this class or that.

I have let my ASE expire, since I am not in that career anymore, but I do consider my opinion valid, and further my sources were declared, so the person asking could have checked for themselves. I even went through a logical progression to explain the issue possibilities.

Azzy · 05-14-2008, 01:41 PM

On the opriginal note.. i still have to change my oil.

Been using the Castrol GTX high mileage stuff. Worth it, or a waste of the extra $2 for a 5qt bottle?

incynr8 · 05-14-2008, 01:46 PM

Azzy it probably carries some extra Zinc like alot of bike oils, probably won't hurt.
I won't even touch the oil moly tricks of old with this crowd...

Christian Nelson · 05-14-2008, 02:01 PM

Sorry, I must be in a bad mood today..

High mileage, I think is usually thicker, so it won't leak, and so it'll stay on something longer..

On this particular car, it might not be the best idea, they really are set up for thinner oil.

Mine I am sure did this because we've been just getting whatever oil was cheapest, and 10w40 or whatever.

If it isn't leaking out, I'd try the synthetic to see if it makes a difference.

They just tend to not carbon up as bad, or sludge.

My experieince in older car engines (lots of use) is that a good portion of the oil has almost turned into tar inside, You want to minimize this, and possibly break it up if you can.

Of course, I could be wrong, and I don'tknow this particular car's history.

But PCV, and leaks are a good thing to check. I usually stay away from what seems to be gimmick oils.

Seafoam is just for breaking up carbon. You could mist some water in the vaccum line and get similar results.

incynr8 · 05-14-2008, 02:09 PM

i don't subscribe to oil weight vs use and 'less leaks'. Seals seal, or they are failed seals. Granted you might loose a bit less with 20-50. The same engine incorrect repair with 20-50 might actually run ideally with 0-20 (what alot of my 356a/b/judson 36 crew use).

I also dont agree with miracle additives, although there are admittingly some VERY good OILS out now.

Azzy · 05-14-2008, 02:19 PM

My CB650 will leak all over the place with 10w30, but not with 10w40. Dont know why, but it does.

I thought the car called for 10w30. No biggy, I can swing by and pick up the 5x, as the explorer uses the other stuff.

incynr8 · 05-14-2008, 02:25 PM

well if experience with the soul of a particular machine best calls for 'X", by all mean use 'X'!

every machine is a like a chick, totally it's own unique PITA!

Christian Nelson · 05-14-2008, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by incynr8

i don't subscribe to oil weight vs use and 'less leaks'. Seals seal, or they are failed seals. Granted you might loose a bit less with 20-50. The same engine incorrect repair with 20-50 might actually run ideally with 0-20 (what alot of my 356a/b/judson 36 crew use).

I also dont agree with miracle additives, although there are admittingly some VERY good OILS out now.

Definately been some improvements in oil. Across the board. I pulled my head off the Saturn, and I see the factory crosshatches fromt he original machining still etched into the cylinders. This was unheard of on 150K miles not that long ago.

Thinner is better, usually in my oppinion, gets into places better.

I hear good tings about synthetics, I always was afraid to use them, because of price. But if your oil use isn't from leaking, maybe an improvement?

Azzy · 05-14-2008, 02:26 PM

Speak it brother Al!

Now if I switch to synthetic (probably Mobile 1) will it matter if I have some of the regular old stuff sitting around in the engine, or do I need to do some weird flushing to swap over?

incynr8 · 05-14-2008, 02:29 PM

no, I have never done that in separate sump vehicles, except two race applications. (we drained pans for rebuilds/inspections, so not a fair comparison)
just change it hot, then change it again (at desired interval) and the ratio of mix will go rapidly in the new fluid type's favor in short order.

Anything else is likely a huge waste of time and material.

05-14-2008, 01:13 PM	#31 (permalink)
Christian Nelson MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 2,370	No, what you said was "Why has this discussion gone any further?" because this guy announced his certification before he gave his opinion. I too was employed full time as an automotive technician. I too was ASE certified, and know just a little bit about cars. The other responder who was disagreeing with him sounds like he's in school where he's studying this stuff. You come in, and tell the rest of us to shut up because the one guy announced his certs. Do I have to list off my certs anytime I give an opinion for it to be valid? I gave references, that anyone could check for my reasoning behind my given opinion. The other guy, just gave anecdotal opinion. I also have various certs in Computer stuff too, I am always getting sent all over the place to take this test or that, or take this class or that. I have let my ASE expire, since I am not in that career anymore, but I do consider my opinion valid, and further my sources were declared, so the person asking could have checked for themselves. I even went through a logical progression to explain the issue possibilities. __________________ The greatest want of the world is the want of men- men who will not be bought or sold, men who in their inmost souls are true and honest, men who do not fear to call sin by it's right name, men who's concience is as true to duty as the needle to the pole, men who will stand for the right though the heavens fall.

05-14-2008, 01:41 PM	#32 (permalink)
Azzy Mod-O-Rator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Finleyville, PA Posts: 7,156	On the opriginal note.. i still have to change my oil. Been using the Castrol GTX high mileage stuff. Worth it, or a waste of the extra $2 for a 5qt bottle? __________________ Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel webmaster - Riverside Renegade Paintball / C.C. S.V.S. Plankowner - LPPC#6 Check out VintageRex.com, the premiere paintball museum "A Patriot and free-thinker with respect to social standards in 1760, is today's traitor and dangerous mind." - incynr8

05-14-2008, 01:46 PM	#33 (permalink)
incynr8 .:\|Purification Admin\|:. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: PA Posts: 5,428	Azzy it probably carries some extra Zinc like alot of bike oils, probably won't hurt. I won't even touch the oil moly tricks of old with this crowd... __________________ Advertise on MCB That's two-ing thirteen while she's eleven-ing your five........ PPS4LIFE ..........\______ ........../__\|___!\___ ..........\'o)i___l_o)_;

05-14-2008, 02:01 PM	#34 (permalink)
Christian Nelson MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 2,370	Sorry, I must be in a bad mood today.. High mileage, I think is usually thicker, so it won't leak, and so it'll stay on something longer.. On this particular car, it might not be the best idea, they really are set up for thinner oil. Mine I am sure did this because we've been just getting whatever oil was cheapest, and 10w40 or whatever. If it isn't leaking out, I'd try the synthetic to see if it makes a difference. They just tend to not carbon up as bad, or sludge. My experieince in older car engines (lots of use) is that a good portion of the oil has almost turned into tar inside, You want to minimize this, and possibly break it up if you can. Of course, I could be wrong, and I don'tknow this particular car's history. But PCV, and leaks are a good thing to check. I usually stay away from what seems to be gimmick oils. Seafoam is just for breaking up carbon. You could mist some water in the vaccum line and get similar results. __________________ The greatest want of the world is the want of men- men who will not be bought or sold, men who in their inmost souls are true and honest, men who do not fear to call sin by it's right name, men who's concience is as true to duty as the needle to the pole, men who will stand for the right though the heavens fall.

05-14-2008, 02:09 PM	#35 (permalink)
incynr8 .:\|Purification Admin\|:. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: PA Posts: 5,428	i don't subscribe to oil weight vs use and 'less leaks'. Seals seal, or they are failed seals. Granted you might loose a bit less with 20-50. The same engine incorrect repair with 20-50 might actually run ideally with 0-20 (what alot of my 356a/b/judson 36 crew use). I also dont agree with miracle additives, although there are admittingly some VERY good OILS out now. __________________ Advertise on MCB That's two-ing thirteen while she's eleven-ing your five........ PPS4LIFE ..........\______ ........../__\|___!\___ ..........\'o)i___l_o)_;

05-14-2008, 02:19 PM	#36 (permalink)
Azzy Mod-O-Rator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Finleyville, PA Posts: 7,156	My CB650 will leak all over the place with 10w30, but not with 10w40. Dont know why, but it does. I thought the car called for 10w30. No biggy, I can swing by and pick up the 5x, as the explorer uses the other stuff. __________________ Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel webmaster - Riverside Renegade Paintball / C.C. S.V.S. Plankowner - LPPC#6 Check out VintageRex.com, the premiere paintball museum "A Patriot and free-thinker with respect to social standards in 1760, is today's traitor and dangerous mind." - incynr8

05-14-2008, 02:25 PM	#37 (permalink)
incynr8 .:\|Purification Admin\|:. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: PA Posts: 5,428	well if experience with the soul of a particular machine best calls for 'X", by all mean use 'X'! every machine is a like a chick, totally it's own unique PITA! __________________ Advertise on MCB That's two-ing thirteen while she's eleven-ing your five........ PPS4LIFE ..........\______ ........../__\|___!\___ ..........\'o)i___l_o)_;

05-14-2008, 02:26 PM	#39 (permalink)
Azzy Mod-O-Rator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Finleyville, PA Posts: 7,156	Speak it brother Al! Now if I switch to synthetic (probably Mobile 1) will it matter if I have some of the regular old stuff sitting around in the engine, or do I need to do some weird flushing to swap over? __________________ Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel webmaster - Riverside Renegade Paintball / C.C. S.V.S. Plankowner - LPPC#6 Check out VintageRex.com, the premiere paintball museum "A Patriot and free-thinker with respect to social standards in 1760, is today's traitor and dangerous mind." - incynr8

05-14-2008, 02:29 PM	#40 (permalink)
incynr8 .:\|Purification Admin\|:. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: PA Posts: 5,428	no, I have never done that in separate sump vehicles, except two race applications. (we drained pans for rebuilds/inspections, so not a fair comparison) just change it hot, then change it again (at desired interval) and the ratio of mix will go rapidly in the new fluid type's favor in short order. Anything else is likely a huge waste of time and material. __________________ Advertise on MCB That's two-ing thirteen while she's eleven-ing your five........ PPS4LIFE ..........\______ ........../__\|___!\___ ..........\'o)i___l_o)_;