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|08-21-2008, 03:25 PM||#12 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2007
I raised and shown/field trialed AKC Treeing Walkers for years...so know alittle bit..enough to get me into trouble...No experiance with BT's
Just scope out where they are kept....Even if they are up to date on everything things can happen....Make sure you see where they are housed and any other dogs that they are around to see if anything is not up to snuff.
This might piss some breeders off..but AKC, UKC ect...Doesn't mean squat if the breeder doesn't know what they are doing....Either in show, hunting or family pet seller...Those that just sell the Kennel Club branding....I would shy away from...Make sure you get a really good dog person who breeds for health, temperment and to produce a dog that will be the best of it's breed...or go to the pound and save a dog...
Study up on bull terriers and see if there are any faults to look for...
If this is for a family pet....
Tip on how to pick a pup.....When we pick a dog for non-hunting or non-breeding purposes. Our whole family goes to the breeder's home and release the puppies outside. We kneel a distance away from the breeder and then they release them and the first one who travels over and picks a family member...We take home with us......Has been fail proof for us....and everytime the puppy has grown up faithful and easy to train....We never look at just one or two puppies...I like to get there and see the whole litter if possible...
I purchased our last dog from a breeder and got a deal on a weimaraner puppy that has an outstanding breeding line..I worked a deal on a lower price if we didn't bred her....We were going to spayed her anyway....She is one of the best pointing dogs I have ever seen..even if it's pointing lizards...lol
Good luck and I hope some of this helped.
Edit...from a post above mentioned Breeder having AKC paperwork....
Most will not have the papers on the puppies...They should have it on the parents...or copies if breeding was studded out...
Unless they had them for a awhile then they may have papers...most breeders have the new owner apply for the papers and furnish the paperwork...
You can purchase the lineage papers if you wish that shows the breeding line when you apply for the papers.
Last edited by RealtorTommy; 08-21-2008 at 03:41 PM.
|08-21-2008, 03:32 PM||#13 (permalink)|
Cobra Paintball Fanatic
Don't forget the final question to ask the breeder is "Did you cry when old yeller got shot?"
If they say "no" then you know they are either a liar, or a cyborg
Shoot first, check armband tape later.
|08-21-2008, 03:36 PM||#14 (permalink)|
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Not of this Earth
But good advice on the family/puppies meeting. Ive alway picked my pets that came from litters by seeing which one was the most adventurous and willing to scout. Nobody likes a pet that runs and hides.
Arkanjel Imaging - My Flickr photostream
|08-21-2008, 03:44 PM||#15 (permalink)|
Cobra Paintball Fanatic
Sounds like you'd like the book, Merle's Door: "Lessons from a Freethinking Dog' by Ted Kerasote
Shoot first, check armband tape later.
|08-21-2008, 04:19 PM||#16 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Dracut MA
I also suggest most people visit a shelter when looking for a family pet. On the flip side, I understand the desire to have complete knowledge and control over the earliest formative events in a dog's life. I've always rescued dogs, but a few years ago decided to see how pet ownership would be different if I raised a dog from puppyhood. It is definately not an experience that I regret. I still rescue dogs, but the dog I got at 7 weeks of age from a quality breeder has been different in many ways from all the rescues I've had in the past, including a few well-bred dogs that I ended up adopting when they were a little older.
If you've decided that you want a pup from a breeder a couple of questions to ask:
*What are the goals of your breeding program?
*Why did you choose thes specific sire and dam you chose to produce this litter?
*What do you do for early socilization & desensitization?
Breeding a quality litter is a lot more than simply having 2 dogs with "papers" hook up. Someone with an actual breeding program will be trying to better the breed by selecting for certain traits, and developing a program to bring those traits out. With most "show" folk, it's physical characteristics. Some breeders focus on temperament/personality, and unless you've got your heart set on showing, I think that a breeder selecting for personality would be the way to go. I'm assuming that you're looking for a family pet, but if you have plans on any kind of competition/sports/etc, then selecting for the right drives for the sport is neccessary. Any breeder (and sadly, this includes most breeders) without good answers to these questions are honestly only hobbiests, and all you're doing by buying a dog from them is subsidizing their hobby. You'd have just as good luck picking out a random puppy at a shelter -Not that there's anything wrong with that! Ask yourself: What is the extra $$$ from using this breeder buying me?
Things worth paying more for (in my opiniion):
*A well thought out breeding program using a large gene pool (no line-breeding) with specific objectives and goals for each litter (other than to make $)
*A breeder who asks good questions about you, your family, lifestyle, schedule, other pets and living situation with the goal of placing each of their puppys in the right home for the family and the for the dog. Quality breeders are picky and it might not be possible to get one of their dogs right away - They're not in it for the money.
*A breeder who makes an honest effort to expose the puppies to as many sounds, sights, people, situations and environments as possible, who is knowledgeable about the critical development periods for dogs, and who requires you to educate yourself about early dog development. If the dog's first 16 weeks of life are carefully choreographed, you can almost guarentee an amazing relationship with your dog with few problems. Major mistakes during this time can also effect your dog's behavior for the rest of it's life.
If you're going to put the time & expense into getting and bringing up a puppy, you might as well do it right and get the maximal return on your investment.
I wish you good luck on your search. Bull Terriers are very cool dogs. If there's anything I can do to help further, shoot me a PM.
"We are men of action, Lies do not become us."
|08-21-2008, 09:25 PM||#18 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: ON Canada
Something no one has mentioned is the puppies age. Do not get a young puppy. Eight weeks or less is very bad. The dog will not be socialized with other dogs properely and will miss out on moms antibiotics. My first puppy was from a pet store, I know huge mistake, he was young and died three days after I bought him on Christmas day. He was not a gift for anyone but myself so there was no worry about holiday stress. He died of Parvo even though he visited the vet the day I bought him and all "appeared" well and he was given his shots. Then when you do get him do not allow him around other dogs or in areas where other dogs go until he is 12 or more weeks old, 16 is prefferable. Parvo is a killer in young dogs and figureing out when they are immune is tricky. Have a little read about Parvo just so you know.
|08-22-2008, 12:15 AM||#19 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Napa, Ca.
I lost 2 pups to parvo. It sucks.
I know you are set on a pup of a particlar breed but.......
You want a great way to look at available dogs? Volunteer to walk dogs at the local shelter. That gives you some real time to interact with the poochs and learn a little about who they are. Nothing, and I do mean NOTHING loves you like a rescued dog does.
Cool swag to promote your sport!
Honey badger don't care! Honey badger don't give a @#$%.
Shipped price is valid to domestic buyers and will be USPS priority. International buyers are welcome, but will cover additional costs. Insurance costs are included. If you prefer an uninsured package, you the buyer will assume all risk once I ship.