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Old 02-01-2011, 09:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Promaster problems

hey there guys, i got a promaster that wont shoot

-Stock HPR and LPR
-it does have the crammer that was released awhile ago
-i have changed the battery, no change
-no leaks, that i can hear that is

my initial thoughts are that it is either the noid or the crammer itself but i would like other opinions, also i don't think it is the board simply because when i put it in dry fire mode(yes i know how to do this) every click of the trigger registers as a blink on the led, tho im assuming this blinking means the board recognizes that im pulling the trigger, i could be wrong on that part. Another thing, i have NOT tried to shoot it with paint, but i haven't done that simply because it should dry fire, but doesn't. Thoughts?
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does the bolt go back when you air it up? That shows your lpr and crammer are working.

You should be able to hear the noid click, besides the micro switch.

You can take the grip off to listen, and if you don't hear it, try pushing the little red button on the noid. It physically lifts the pilot and should fire the noid.

If the noid clicks, but no vent air, then one of your regs may be hung up, or just backed out all the way (it happens).
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the bolt does go back, i have pressed the little red button, tho not when it was aired up, will try that now.
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ok some progess, so pressing the button on the noid does make the marker fire when aired up, however the trigger still generates no response, so this means that the regs and crammer are working yes? perhaps im not putting it in dry fire mode properly, im holding down the trigger then turning the marker and holding the trigger until the LED starts blinking, thats how its done correct?
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's what my lasoya does. Do you have a stock board?

The other method (in semi at least) is to hold down the trigger in normal mode. After about four or five seconds, it fires once.

If you are sure about the battery, you might check the wiring harness.

I'll say mine continually tries to get between the clamshell halves, which would kill it.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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yes it is the stock board, its a regular promaster tho, not lasoya, if that makes a difference. i have tried three different batteries including one straight out of the packaging so its not the battery. i am starting to think its a wiring issue now. just from looking at it there doesnt seem to be any loose connections, but if its a broken wire i wouldnt know how to confirm that.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like you're putting the marker into dry fire mode properly.

I had a problem that sounds exactly like this and then found out too late I was unknowingly plowing the top right grip frame screw into the solenoid every time I took off my grips. I can't say if this is the case with you, but you might want to check out this thread and see if any of it applies.
ICDO › Forums › Marker Talk › ProMaster › Promaster Solenoid Disassembly with Pictures

1st thing I'd do is up your dwell to around 20ms or so. That may enable the marker to shoot via the trigger. If that works for you, then you know it could be a problem with the noid.
Best case scenario: The spool may just need cleaning.
Worst case: You will need a new noid.

If you need a noid, I'd try and contact zachsdad86 on here. He should be able to help a fellow PM owner out.

Last edited by krupasjeans; 02-02-2011 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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oh wow ok thanks for that link, i'll definitely try that out and see if the noid is the real issue here, thanks for the help guys
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Try zeroing the LPR and turning it up little by little.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pball767 View Post
if its a broken wire i wouldnt know how to confirm that.
It often isn't easy, but sometimes you only need some common sense. Look for heavy dents or scrapes on the wire jackets in areas where they can get pinched. Look for kinks in the jacket where the wire might be broken on the inside from fatigue. If the wire looks good, it usually is.

The most common spot is where the wire enters a plug, especially the battery plug. When you drop a battery on the end of the harness, it really pulls on that spot. I had a timmy that would run the board, but not the solenoid; it had one or two strands of wire holding the battery wire in the plug. A new harness would have been best, but I soldered it to make sure that was the problem and forgot to go back and change it.

Definitely check the solenoid though.
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