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| | #11 (permalink) |
| THE NEW PA Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: ne Pa |
yeah ive used paintgun oil, shocker lube then finally greese
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Ruined LL5 for Everyone! |
Few things to check. If the valve tip is torqued down too hard or not flush in some way then the piston o-ring could be deformed. Is the bolt stem off center or marred in any way? Is the main spring weak or sear worn in any way? This definitely comes down to that main seal in the front of the valve not sealing right.
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| THE NEW PA Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: ne Pa |
i imagine youre right grimace. the bolt tip and bolt both had tool marks on them i used fine grit to smooth it up but its probably been torqued on. i put it on as tight as i could by hand . maybe i need to use a little extra to squeeze the seal? new main spring, sear looks good.
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| MCB Member |
Welp, after buying your leaky Fox and swapping some parts around with my functional one, here are my findings: -Upon gas-up, there's definitely a slowish leak coming from the front of the reg/valve, though the gun cycles well and the reg adjusts normally. I hear it more coming from the trigger area of the body than down the bolt itself. -Your bolt works fine in my gun, and my bolt does not solve the leak in yours, so I can rule out a bolt stem problem. -Your valve tip works fine in my gun, and mine does not solve the leak in yours, so it is also fine (though definitely plier-marked up on the outside). -Your valve tip o-ring looks perfect, and swapping in another 010 does not solve the leak, so that isn't it, either. -As you said, your gun, being a '96, has the check-valve ball-bearing thing in the valve chamber that was later discontinued. It does seal partially against that press-fit (or glued) plastic insert, but any air that passes that point would still be sealed by the valve tip o-ring (like my '98, which doesn't use the ball-bearing system). You can't remove all of the parts associated with the check-valve, as they also serve as retention for the reg guts (later models simply used a screw), but I've found that you can run the gun without the spring and ball-bearing... In which case, the leak remains identical. Hum. I'm a bit flummoxed. Maybe it's destined to be a parts gun.
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Ruined LL5 for Everyone! | Quote:
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| MCB Member |
Pretty sure it isn't the rear transfer o-ring... I eyeballed it last night, and the leak doesn't seem to be coming from there. Will take a look at the housing o-rings tonight after work, thanks! I think I still have some air left... edit: on an unrelated note, this powerfeed ain't gonna come off easily. I was considering yoinking it for another gun, if need be, or re-anodizing/restoring this one (it needs it), but the allen screw heads are stripped and they're seized up quite well in the body.
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| THE NEW PA Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: ne Pa |
i know what you mean about the air seaming to be in the trigger area. but there is no air passages there. i wish the transfer port was threaded so you could gas up the valve off the marker. if you gas it up and adjust the valve pressure real low. then shoot it it wont recock. then turn up the pressure and it doesnt leak if i remember right. i think this isolates the leake to the very front. because w/ the gun uncocker the check valve is shutting air off to the tip of the valve.
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