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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 85
| Spyder Gurus, I have an e-frame problem. I recently acquired a spyder e-frame (one of the older ones) that is suffering from a weak solenoid or something of the sort. The solenoid stroke is not strong enough to trip the sear when the marker is cocked, but it is strong enough if you take the frame off the marker. The battery was strong enough to deliver the power needed I am pretty sure. So what might be the problem, and how do I fix it? Could it be that I just need a new solenoid? If so, where can I get one that is going to be compatible with an older frame (I am not sure if they have updated parts on the newer frames)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you need more information just let me know. Thanks. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Seasoned Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 527
| Are you using a 9V alkaline battery? IIRC the rechargeable 9V batteries that come w/Spyders are actually approx .9.6V. Some of them will work fine on a regular 9V some seem to like the extra voltage to work reliably.
__________________ Current markers: Automag powerfeed left. PGP w/some Palmer's love WDP Angel Speed 03 (bought for $100 & in need of some love (read: money I don't have) thrown it's way Sheridan Piranha LB PMI-III Spyder Victor-II "Now is no time to be making new enemies" - Voltaire (When asked on his deathbed by a priest to renounce the devil and turn to God.) |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: thunder bay, ontario, canada
Posts: 115
| You should always use the 9.6V battery with spyders. They will work with a 9V but not reliably. It really sounds like the battery is your problem, but if you try a newly charged 9.6 and it doesn't work then try shimming it like Uranus said with a coin (I try smaller coins first and move up until it works the odd time I've needed to shim).
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,200
| Hmmmm... I have the same problem. By shim, I assume you mean between the solenoid shaft and the rear of the frame to limit it's movement? If so, mine has a set screw that serves that purpose. I'll have to get a 9.6v and see if that cures the problem. Walker
__________________ Member of the Old Farts Paintball Players Association (OFPPA) "Where You Wrap Up the Day, With Beer and Bengay!" Nelson Owner's Group |
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,322
| Quote:
Oddly enough some of what I've seen at PBN is going to save you a lot of trouble. If your solenoid is weak and you've done the new battery thing and you've got a well charged 9.6 and it's not doing the job then it's probably because the large capacitor on your board is blown. This is the cap that stores the extra power that's needed to really strongly fire off the solenoid with a big kick. Find a replacement at a local parts shop or get a couple online and carefully solder the new one in. Pay attention to the old one as you remove it and notice that it has a + and a - on it and match the new one up. These are electrolytic capacitors and they are polarity sensitive. The penny or washer shimming has also been shown to cause problems. The core of the solenoid needs to have some momentum before it strikes the sear. Shimming it with a washer or penny or other coin stops the solenoid from getting up a good head of speed before it hammers into the sear. Another PBN nugget. For Spyder trivia it's truly the place to go.
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 85
| Upon further inspection of the capacitor I discovered that one of the wires is broken at the capacitor, would it be possible to solder the wire back on without damaging the capacitor, or is it best just to replace the whole unit? |
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