Possessed spyder quick fix question

FeedTheDogg · 08-16-2011, 03:33 PM

I have this evil spyder compact that my friend was having me work on years ago. Long story short I changed all its seals (cup seal, striker o-ring) and yet this thing still sputters out. It airs up fine, and sometimes when you dry fire it cycles fine, but then a second later at the chrono or in a game it sputters. I still have it, my friend moved on a got a new gun, but I was just thinking, is there a cost effective way to fix this thing (seeing how used spyders of this sort often times sell for 35 bucks.) Do you know of anyone selling spyder parts? My idea as of right now is to replace the striker and sear (or trigger frame if I cant get a sear.) and see if that changes results. Maybe even replace the body if I can do it cost effectively.

MaD · 08-16-2011, 03:57 PM

One thing that I found with Spyders is that some were "good" ones that would click right along no matter what happened. Others were "duds" where they were just always problematic. I suspect some tolerance issues. That one might just be a dud.

Still, some possible fixes:
- Make sure you're using an actual striker o-ring. They're not the quite same size (or material) as a tank o-ring.
- Make sure it's a fresh o-ring
- If it's a turbo or other high flow valve, it might not be getting enough air back to the striker. I've modified valve pins in the past to give it more blowback gas. You basically just give it 2 flats instead of on one side. This will have some adverse effects such as decreased velocity on the valve, harder recoil and some wasted gas.... but might get it running.

FeedTheDogg · 08-16-2011, 04:31 PM

alright, I think I'll re-verify that O-ring cause honestly I dont remember if I stuck the right o ring or a tank one. Also I found a brand new trigger frame for about 15 bucks which may be a good choice considering it would replace the sear, sear spring, and also the stock frame is pretty beat up and in bad condition anyways.

MaD · 08-16-2011, 05:27 PM

Yeah, hammer / sear wear can be another issue as well. Make sure they're in good shape or it might not be catching properly.

Mavalon · 08-26-2011, 12:06 AM

Actually strange as it sounds it might be your paint. I've heard legends of spyders that would only re-cock if a properly underbored paintball was in the chamber. Apparently the thrust of the paintball leaving the barrel would add just enough recoil to the bolt to finish the cycle. I personally haven't run into any like this but I have heard rumors....

Personally I would try a spring kit though,

Amazon.com: Diablo Spyder/Mongoose Spring Kit: Sports & Outdoors,

Or you could just run to the hardware store and buy a super light valve spring and bend the top coil so that it holds the cup seal, that's what I do to mine. Let me know if you get this working or not because there are other tricks you can use.

heinous · 08-29-2011, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mavalon

Actually strange as it sounds it might be your paint. I've heard legends of spyders that would only re-cock if a properly underbored paintball was in the chamber. Apparently the thrust of the paintball leaving the barrel would add just enough recoil to the bolt to finish the cycle. I personally haven't run into any like this but I have heard rumors....

no, the thrust would hinder it since the gun would be moving backwards with the hammer. it's the back pressure that's helping recocking.

HurtCow · 08-29-2011, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heinous

no, the thrust would hinder it since the gun would be moving backwards with the hammer. it's the back pressure that's helping recocking.

Correct. I have an Alley Cat that's tuned so that it'll only recock when shooting paint. Without paint it jackhammers. The gas takes the path of least resistance, in this case, an empty barrel rather than a heavy hammer with a spring behind it.

Mavalon · 08-29-2011, 10:15 PM

That is why I love this site, because the legends themselves wander the forums and enlighten the technically handicapped and ignorant agglets about how everything really works. You guys are amazing. At least I wasn't too far off though I had the solution right I just needed work on the why.
Cheers!

melkson · 08-30-2011, 12:26 AM

#1 issue i've found on rebuilt spyders is the wrong o-ring on the hammer. the proper o-ring for spyder hammers is a bit bigger, and if a tank o-ring is used, the often fail to recock.I've got oodles of spyder parts, including teflon coated hammer o-rings.

Mirad · 09-06-2011, 03:25 PM

Swapped your springs out?

08-16-2011, 03:33 PM	#1 (permalink)
FeedTheDogg Seasoned Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia	Possessed spyder quick fix question I have this evil spyder compact that my friend was having me work on years ago. Long story short I changed all its seals (cup seal, striker o-ring) and yet this thing still sputters out. It airs up fine, and sometimes when you dry fire it cycles fine, but then a second later at the chrono or in a game it sputters. I still have it, my friend moved on a got a new gun, but I was just thinking, is there a cost effective way to fix this thing (seeing how used spyders of this sort often times sell for 35 bucks.) Do you know of anyone selling spyder parts? My idea as of right now is to replace the striker and sear (or trigger frame if I cant get a sear.) and see if that changes results. Maybe even replace the body if I can do it cost effectively.

08-16-2011, 03:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
MaD MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: A2, Michigan	One thing that I found with Spyders is that some were "good" ones that would click right along no matter what happened. Others were "duds" where they were just always problematic. I suspect some tolerance issues. That one might just be a dud. Still, some possible fixes: - Make sure you're using an actual striker o-ring. They're not the quite same size (or material) as a tank o-ring. - Make sure it's a fresh o-ring - If it's a turbo or other high flow valve, it might not be getting enough air back to the striker. I've modified valve pins in the past to give it more blowback gas. You basically just give it 2 flats instead of on one side. This will have some adverse effects such as decreased velocity on the valve, harder recoil and some wasted gas.... but might get it running. __________________ -= MaD =- Sheridan Seals and Parts Feedback DIY Paintball Stuff! Note: While I would love to take credit for his work, I am not associated with Mad Customs! You can contact BigMatt-MadCustoms in his MCB forum

08-16-2011, 05:27 PM	#4 (permalink)
MaD MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: A2, Michigan	Yeah, hammer / sear wear can be another issue as well. Make sure they're in good shape or it might not be catching properly. __________________ -= MaD =- Sheridan Seals and Parts Feedback DIY Paintball Stuff! Note: While I would love to take credit for his work, I am not associated with Mad Customs! You can contact BigMatt-MadCustoms in his MCB forum

09-06-2011, 03:25 PM	#10 (permalink)
Mirad Stock Class Playa Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: In my space station.	Swapped your springs out? __________________ mcarterbrown +17/0/-0 customcockers +11/0/-0 customcockers itrader +4/0/-0 PbNation +5/0/-0 For sale:

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08-16-2011, 04:31 PM	#3 (permalink)
FeedTheDogg Seasoned Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia	alright, I think I'll re-verify that O-ring cause honestly I dont remember if I stuck the right o ring or a tank one. Also I found a brand new trigger frame for about 15 bucks which may be a good choice considering it would replace the sear, sear spring, and also the stock frame is pretty beat up and in bad condition anyways.

08-26-2011, 12:06 AM	#5 (permalink)
Mavalon Active Member Join Date: Jan 2010	Actually strange as it sounds it might be your paint. I've heard legends of spyders that would only re-cock if a properly underbored paintball was in the chamber. Apparently the thrust of the paintball leaving the barrel would add just enough recoil to the bolt to finish the cycle. I personally haven't run into any like this but I have heard rumors.... Personally I would try a spring kit though, Amazon.com: Diablo Spyder/Mongoose Spring Kit: Sports & Outdoors, Or you could just run to the hardware store and buy a super light valve spring and bend the top coil so that it holds the cup seal, that's what I do to mine. Let me know if you get this working or not because there are other tricks you can use.

08-29-2011, 10:15 PM	#8 (permalink)
Mavalon Active Member Join Date: Jan 2010	That is why I love this site, because the legends themselves wander the forums and enlighten the technically handicapped and ignorant agglets about how everything really works. You guys are amazing. At least I wasn't too far off though I had the solution right I just needed work on the why. Cheers!