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Old 08-19-2012, 12:32 AM   #21 (permalink)
Tuning up the armory
 
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Originally Posted by Blender View Post
Hmm. I work on STBB's all the time. Here's some stuff to do.

First, order a new spring guide, or borrow one from another marker. They sell for a few dollars on eBay. This part is quite necessary. If need be, you could probably make one from a dowel, delrin rod, round headed bolt, or something similar. Also, order a new striker o-ring. Rumor has it it's a 016. Buna should work fine. These can be bought on eBay (look for "spyder fat striker o-ring") or on McMaster-Carr.

When your parts arrive...

Remove the grip frame from the marker, and remove the back caps, main spring, striker, and bolt.

Clean the bolt and striker off, and clean inside the body. There should be no residue on any of these surfaces.

Replace the striker o-ring.

Check the hammer and sear for wear again. The edges where they interact should be sharp, and not rounded off at all.

Check the sear spring, make sure it's working and strong enough to pop the sear back up in time to catch the striker. If you have another STBB to compare it to, do so. (I would suspect this would result in bursts rather than sustained burping)

Check/Replace any o-rings on the bolt. As far as I know, they should be a 015. I think a tank o-ring would work for this.

Lubricate lightly with some sort of oil -- no grease or "lube", and nothing aerosol. Tippmann recommends Hoppes #9, Brass Eagle used to suggest mineral oil. Air tool oil and automatic transmission fluid have also been used with fine results.

Reassemble according to your assembly diagram, making sure the grip frame screws are quite tight.

Screw the velocity adjuster halfway in and see if the marker works at that point.

Hopefully that helps...
I was able to get a new spring guide and a flat disk and it didn't help. The inside of the gun is clean and oiled and has all new springs and o-rings except for the fat striker o-ring. But now that I have the proper dimensions for the o-ring, I should be able to buy what I need at my local automotive store or someplace like McMaster-Carr.

The sear and hammer are still in good shape with sharp edges. Also, adjusting the velocity all the way up and all the way down did not help. Will have to try a new sear spring if I can find one.

Something to note is that the bolt is aftermarket and has no o-rings at all. Does that matter? There is a picture of it a few posts back. It's red.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjd10684 View Post
I am pretty sure the oring you need is a 016 size with a drometer of 90. If you were not in Canada I would suggest buying a box from mcmaster but you should be able to find what your looking for somewhere in the great white north.
Thanks! These measurements will be extremely helpful. Now I can try tracking down a replacement. Should the striker o-ring be buna, urethane, polyurethane, hard polyurethane?
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:38 AM   #22 (permalink)
Tuning up the armory
 
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On a side note, what is a good website to get stock Spyder parts?
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:24 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I think the stock ones are urethane but it does not matter as long as its the harder dorometer. If you use regular 70d orings you will chop the oring pretty quick.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:19 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Folken View Post
I was able to get a new spring guide and a flat disk and it didn't help. The inside of the gun is clean and oiled and has all new springs and o-rings except for the fat striker o-ring. But now that I have the proper dimensions for the o-ring, I should be able to buy what I need at my local automotive store or someplace like McMaster-Carr.

The sear and hammer are still in good shape with sharp edges. Also, adjusting the velocity all the way up and all the way down did not help. Will have to try a new sear spring if I can find one.

Something to note is that the bolt is aftermarket and has no o-rings at all. Does that matter? There is a picture of it a few posts back. It's red.

Thanks! These measurements will be extremely helpful. Now I can try tracking down a replacement. Should the striker o-ring be buna, urethane, polyurethane, hard polyurethane?
The sear spring is an unlikely issue, but possible. As I stated, it's more likely that the marker would just fire twice.

Provided that the bolt is for the correct marker, it's unlikely to be an issue. It is pretty worn though -- try using some fine steel wool, 800 to 2000 grit sandpaper, or something like Mother's Mag polish to clean that up.

I can almost guarantee that this is the o-ring, however-- I own about 15 STBB's and that striker o-ring is the only thing I've ever had a problem with.

Also, a video of this thing attempting to shoot would be fantastic. You can tell a lot by how it cycles. In fact, it's important for us to know if it's "burping" or "jackhammering". Burping is a pressure or seal problem, jackhammering is a hammer/sear problem. Burping is the typical "out of air" sound and stops after a second or so, and jackhammering is violent, uncontrolled full-auto that doesn't stop unless you grab the cocking knob.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Folken View Post
Did that and it still didn't work. Still waiting to hear back from melkson about possibly getting a red o-ring.
he's been in a hospital for a long time. if you can't wait, try going to a paintball store, the gun tech might have a few striker o-rings to spare.

bolt shouldn't be the problem, but it should be able to slide around without being stopped by anything. is it a plastic bolt? it could be from alamo city, which i also have for one of my spyders and it was warped somehow, binding against the body. it shouldn't hurt to try another bolt if you got one.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:31 PM   #26 (permalink)
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If Folken doesn't have a replacement striker o-ring in a couple days, I should be able to send a couple by Tues or Wendsday. I just ordered some from McMasterr Carr this evening. I will be able to send two types, a D90 polyurethane and d55 PTFE.

Last edited by danssoslow; 08-19-2012 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:50 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The rings came in. Pm me your address and I'll send you two of each type. The poly ones are pretty hard; but those PTFE ones are downright stiff. Deformed the first one trying to get it onto the striker.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:05 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm curious, was this resolved?
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Quote:
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With all the drama, whining, superiority complex, and "you can't play here newbie" attitude I wonder if scenario paintball is attempting to take a lesson from tournament paintball on how to decrease interest.
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I don't particularly have any respect for players using a pump gun.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:11 PM   #29 (permalink)
Tuning up the armory
 
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Unfortunately no. I received some special o-rings from McMaser-Carr but they didn't help.
I've since given up on fixing this marker. Huge headache.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:15 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Well I have a classic that I could swear worked with HPA in August but refused to recock properly on HPA this weekend (2-3 shots and I would have re-cock again). I swapped to a 3.5oz and it worked perfect. I still love this marker (cost me about 30$ in all) so I dont mind tinkering.

I already removed the screen filter in my ASA and the brass filter near the valve. I'm going to use a drill and open up the ASA hole a bit and start clipping the valve spring a tad to see if it improves the flow. I want to use it this winter and would really need to get it running of HPA. I'll post my results soon.
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Quote:
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With all the drama, whining, superiority complex, and "you can't play here newbie" attitude I wonder if scenario paintball is attempting to take a lesson from tournament paintball on how to decrease interest.
Quote:
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I don't particularly have any respect for players using a pump gun.
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