Old Spyder won't recock
A friend of mine bought a used Spyder marker and asked if I could fix it because it would not recock (it would make a burrrrp noise) and had a bad leak. I narrowed the leak down to a bad cup seal which I replaced and the leak went away.
I then replaced all the o-rings on the striker, expansion chamber/expansion chamber block, and valve. I also replaced both the striker main spring and the valve spring. No luck.
I have inspected the striker and sear for wear and both look fine. I have adjusted the velocity all the way up and all the way down and everywhere in between and it still won't recock.
There is no little filter-like disk in the ASA to get oxidized so that is not it. I've tried 2 different CO2 tanks, both full. HPA is not readily available where I live.
I did notice that there is no striker guide pin. Should there be one? I'm not even sure what model it is. Is this a Spyder Classic or a Spyder One? Below are some pics.
I've googled this problem a dozen different ways and I'm still stumped. Does anybody know what could be the problem? :confused:
Just checking. Fatty striker? If so the Slim striker O-ring won't work. Do you have a guide-pin you can install to eliminate that variable.
Bleed hole in the body Clear? Bumper installed aft of the striker.
That is most likely your problem.
Where exactly is the leak coming from?
*No valve burst disk?
Yes, the bumper is installed aft of the striker.
Not familiar with the bleed hole. I've only worked on a few Spyders before.
spyders require a little back pressure to recock. This is usually due to either lower pressure or vlave spring and main spring not keeping valve open long enough to right amount of air in to recock gun. Depending on the situation they may only recock while firing paint or with barrel off and no paint with hand over breach. This works on my 3 lp spyders.
Try these fixes in order.
1. Try finding a main spring guide if u don't have one. You may be able to improvise temporarily. Ive used macroline with a nail inside before and various shims to achieve proper velocity until I could get a new spring guide.
2. Try changeling springs with a spring kit. Light valve spring and medium main spring seems to be the magic combine for me.
also make sure there is no residue inside, My brother-in-law had a spyder that had sticky "crap" in the breech that required acetone to clean
Sorry for the late response. I have been trying to track down spare parts. I believe I've figured out what marker this is. I think it's a Kingman Spyder Compact P by the looks of this diagram.
Today I added a striker spring guide (27) and a Flat disc (27A) to the marker as well as one of the special red striker o-rings and it still burps and will not recock. I've played with the velocity adjuster again and it still won't work. I've swapped the valve spring and main springs with other stock springs and nothing. Anybody have any other ideas?
If there is still a copper filter in the asa or duckbill, remove it. These get fouled over the years and reduce operating pressure.
Also, try firing it with your hand over the mouth of the barrel. Sometimes old spyders require the back pressure to recock.
Another thing to try is removing the expansion chamber and running gas directly into the marker. This can help narrow down the issue.
Edit: after looking at the pic of the bolt, you have ALOT of wear from friction. The wear and whatever caused it can cause improper cocking. Maybe try a delrin bolt? If you are interested I have an ACS (anti chop bolt) new in package i'd sell ya cheap. However no promises this will resolve the issue.
The o-ring you put on the hammer, you said it was a red one, but was it for a modern hammer or a 'fatty' hammer. This WILL cause the issue you are having. I have both I could include with the bolt free.
To see if it's a 'fatty' hammer, just see if it fits down the barrel. Fatties don't
I tried firing with my hand over the barrel and it didn't recock but it did seem to slow down the burping a little bit.
I swapped bolts with another I got today and that didn't change anything. It would seem I do have the fatty hammer. Looks like I need a different o-ring then?
Thanks for the help guys.
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