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Old 08-14-2012, 04:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Possible solution for low pressure cocking issues. Discuss.

I'm working on the home mods from Otter's site to get my old mechanical triggered Spyder to work with low pressure. One thing I am having problems with is cupping the face of the striker to aid in cocking the striker back. That striker is some hard stuff!
So I'm moving on; and since the problem seems to be hit or miss, I will cross that bridge when I get to it.

One possible solution I have thought about is moving that exhaust hole on the striker side of the valve body further back and plug the existing exhaust hole. What I'm figuring is, the longer I can keep the pressure (moving the stiker back) high, the better the chance that the striker will recock.
I have marked the location of the striker in the cocked position, and figured I would drill the hole just forward of that position.

So what say you guys?
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Old 08-21-2012, 04:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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the striker is hardened steel. i personally doubt the effectiveness of cupping its face.

if you have a rocket valve, you wouldn't need a hole at the bottom at all.

when i installed my rocket valve, i also threaded the exhaust to plug it with a grub screw, in order for it to be removable in the future just in case. you can try that route.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heinous View Post
the striker is hardened steel. i personally doubt the effectiveness of cupping its face.

if you have a rocket valve, you wouldn't need a hole at the bottom at all.

when i installed my rocket valve, i also threaded the exhaust to plug it with a grub screw, in order for it to be removable in the future just in case. you can try that route.

That is dead center my line of thinking, just as a back-out if it didn't work. Thread the existing hole and plug it, drill the new hole; and id it doesn't work out, tap and plug the old hole, and buy the Rocket valve. I was contemplating the Rocket valve when I purchased the spring kit; but wanted to see how well my handywork on the stock valve turned out.

I read some mixed views about the cupping the face. Once I found out just how hard it was to grind, I quickly sided with the not-so-worth-it camp. :-D

Gimme a second, and I'll post up a pic of the gun I'm working on. I'm giddy with this one.
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here's a pic of some of the frame work I have done. I removed the nub from the trigger guard, filed down the casting line (not so visible here), and filled in the rear where it transitions into the 90* grip. This is the same frame that I would like to get silk screened to put back all of the factory script and warnings on.


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Old 09-24-2012, 03:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I really like the look of that 90 frame. Makes me want to find a new frame for my Millenium.
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Old 09-29-2012, 03:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danssoslow View Post
Nice job on that frame. I'm doing the same to mine, 90* grip and all, so I'm glad I'm not the only one to try it. What length screw did you use to attach the grip? Mine's a little long and I was hoping to replace it instead of cutting it down.
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