Hammer 7 Bolt
Now that I am feeling a little better and will get back to both the "real" job and to Brass Monkey Customs projects, I have decided to open a discussion regarding the extra bolt that Lou (lmartin) of Kingman was nice enough to send me for experimentation purposes.
Points I would like our group to consider:
What, if any, improvements would we like to attempt on this bolt?
Would something like a TPC be something of interest?
Is there anything reasonable we would want tried on this bolt?
I would like to create/have someone with a CNC lathe (Alpha, Super Staunchy) create a stainless steel version of the bolt, once the experimentation process has been completed. The one place where I see this marker wearing out is the bolt edge where the sear connects.
As the bolt already has a set of grooves to protect the detents, would it be beneficial to continue these grooves all the way around, so the if the breech stub is rotated in the wrong direction, the detents are not damaged? My counter point is, maybe Kingman might want to make the retaining counterbores on the breech stub into a slot, which would not allow the breech to rotate in the wrong direction. Others have already made this modification, so I would want their opinion.
The idea of a TPC/diffuser is interesting, but I personally don't feel it is worth the additional complexity/money/effort. I would like the opinion of people that have used Phantoms with a normal TPC and a completely drilled out TPC. They are likely to have the most complete data.
So, let the discussion begin...
Hammer 7 Bolt - Front
Hammer 7 Bolt - Bottom
Hammer 7 Bolt - Passengers side
Hammer 7 velocity adjuster
Hammer 7 Bolt and velocity adjuster
Hammer 7 Bolt and velocity adjuster 2
does it have an anti double feed sear? or did you only get the bolt?
I only received the bolt.
The breech stub has both an anti double and anti rollout detent. It is a damn great design.
I will post some photos of the bolt later tonight on the first post.
I think some serious thought should be put into a diffuser or venturi tip. I haven't seen any reason for stainless, bolts for pumps have been made out of aluminum for years.
I think paint breaks because the air hitting the ball is to harsh. I have been trying to figure a way to diffuse the air myself.
I will pull the bolt apart tonight and see what I can come up with.
if you thread a sideways hole into the bolt, to fit a grub screw, for the purpose of adjusting velocity in the same way as a 98, and then drill a hole on the side of the body to fit that same screw, it should allow you to adjust velocity without a special tool. will it also alleviate the impact of air on brittle paint?
I was messing around with a few different bolts today, old Tagmaster and original Hammer bolts have a star shaped diffuser adjusted with a flathead.
it could be a drop in piece for the stock bolt.
What would happen if you made the bolt lighter or even heavier?
Venturi bolt would be a good thing to dry. Perhaps some sort of anti-chop angle on the tip of the bolt, like what some of the eclipse cure bolts have. of course you're not going to be shooting 15 bps with the hammer 7 (at least not for a few weeks when someone mods an auto-hammer [jack-hammer??]) however, having some sort of anti-chop feature besides those present could potentially be helpful. I'll look at mine when it comes in a few days, see what other ideas I can come up with.
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