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Old 06-14-2008, 08:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Joining the club.. Need some help

Well it finally happened. I bought a spyder. I got myself a "Special Edition" off the bay and now its time to start buying goodies for it. I've got a few questions about mods.

What frames will fit(and are still readily available)?
Lightning bolt worth it?
Tornado Valve worth it?
Source for O-ring kit?
Madman Spring kits worth it?
Anything else I should know?
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Congrats. If it's one of them green/black SE's, I'd say to start with a spring kit and go from there. Figure out what you like about it and then add on.
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Congrats. If it's one of them green/black SE's, I'd say to start with a spring kit and go from there. Figure out what you like about it and then add on.
Yeah its a green/black SE. I've always wanted one so it was nice to find one in stock unmolested form. All it needs is a cocking pin but I was thinking of getting a lightning bolt and rear cocking setup from AKA so we'll see.
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I got this guy:

spyder special edition - eBay (item 230259994588 end time Jun-14-08 12:54:00 PDT)


also have coming in the mail

- Trigger Guard (Kingman OEM) as local fields require one even if the line technically boxes the trigger in

- Maddman Spring Kit

- Replacement Striker Knob (Kingman OEM)

- Oring Kit


I was thinking about picking up a cupseal also but wasn't sure if they were a wearable item. Its only a couple bucks so I figured better to be safe than sorry.

I'll also be refinishing the gripframe. I was thinking about going with a black wrinkle finish since I still have some in a spraycan in my garage.

I'll be tossing an oldschool clear 9vlt revy and 12oz co2 tank on here and kicking it oldschool(ie the way I remember some kid having it at the local field).
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Old 06-20-2008, 11:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Cupseals can wear out or crack or get leaky from some forgien matter creating a little groove in the seat so a spare is not a bad investment.

The green wash color looks fantastic. You've got yourself a real looker there.

There's not a lot of mechanical trigger frames but they do show up from time to time if you're patient. In the meantime if you wander over to OtterSC Customs and check out the Spyder tech articles there's info about doing a trigger mod to reduce the post firing free play. That mod alone really sharpens up how these mechanicals feel and are well worth the effort if you plan to keep it mechanical.

A delrin bolt swap reduces the traveling mass and reduces the overall kick a lot while still leaving enough to let you know you're shooting something worthwhile and not just triggering a spitball lobbing device....
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Old 06-20-2008, 11:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I am definitely going to do the "back slack" mod. Cup seal works fine and I just changed out the o-rings on the valve, bolt, and hammer. I also got a maddman trigger kit in the mail.

Any advice on the spring kit? I have the lighter valve spring in and the medium (blue) striker spring in now as a starting point. I wasn't sure if I should start with the lighter (about stock length) or harder valve spring (about twice the length).
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you're using HPA which is more consistent then you're fine with that sort of springing. But if you're using CO2 where the pressure changes a lot with temperature then you want to use a hard valve spring and use the light or medium hammer spring as needed to get up to the velocity.

Why the hard valve spring? It's to make the valve action less affected by changes in the pressure by making the spring tension the primary force holding the valve closed. Setting it up this way makes for a more consistent shooting velocity as the temperature changes through the day.

The spring kit comes into its own when you're tuning the setup and making alterations. If you keep the insides more or less the same then they don't really change on you
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you're using HPA which is more consistent then you're fine with that sort of springing. But if you're using CO2 where the pressure changes a lot with temperature then you want to use a hard valve spring and use the light or medium hammer spring as needed to get up to the velocity.

Why the hard valve spring? It's to make the valve action less affected by changes in the pressure by making the spring tension the primary force holding the valve closed. Setting it up this way makes for a more consistent shooting velocity as the temperature changes through the day.

The spring kit comes into its own when you're tuning the setup and making alterations. If you keep the insides more or less the same then they don't really change on you
Very good to know. I'll be running it on co2 as I wanted to KISS for this gun. Its a last ditch backup/loaner so other than maybe a barrel and delrin bolt its not going to get much in the way of mods.

I'll be tossing in the hard valve spring (and longer?) when I get a chance.
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok... ran into a bit of a snag... the heavy valve spring from the kit doesn't fit as its too wide and does not recess into the front plug like the soft and stock springs do. Should I just go back to the stock valve spring?
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