Paintball

[Bored383]

Originally Posted by kidneythief

I dropped a R/t in my procarb awhile back and use it as my "speedball" gun. The looks I get when it rips off into full auto are hilarious.

-Jake

Is there a how-to somewhere on this?

[sdawg]

Originally Posted by Bored383

Is there a how-to somewhere on this?

The guy who runs the pro/carbine owners group does it for a fee. I think he'll also put e-grips on carbines, if that's your thing.

You might be able to find instructions on the PCOG forum.

Here's a bunch of other P/C mods.

[Bored383]

Thanks sdawg!

[sdawg]

Some hints on upgrading your pro/carbine (differn from the p/c mod webpage I linked to... some of these tips won't be very interesting to veteran MCBers, I suspect)

I reduced the trigger play by sticking bike-tire patches (got it at target for around $5) on either side of the trigger. cut them to fit the frame and stuck them through the trigger pins so they would stay in place.

I reduced the length of the trigger pull using a piece cut from an elastic straw placed around one of the trigger pins (can't remember which).

I switched the stock trigger spring for a sl-68II spring (an old trick)

I reduced the sear spring noise by putting electrical tape around it.

I made the trigger pull silky smooth by polishing (1000 grit and mothers mag) all the places on the sear where metal touches metal. This took a while, but it was worth it because the surfaces were pitted and had dings on them. The difference was night and day.

Also, if you want to replace the screws with stainless steel:

Tippmann Replacement Parts Guide

Pro-Carbine (Many of these are applicable to 68-Carbine as well)

Barrel pinch bolt - 1/4-20 thd, 5/8" length, cap head bolt
Elbow pinch bolt - 1/4-20 thd, 1" length, cap head bolt
Gripframe mount bolts - 10-32 thd, 3/8" length, button head bolt
Grip panel bolts - 6-32 thd, 3/8" length, button head bolt (This is almost an industry standard for paintgun grip bolts)
Bottomline mount bolts - 10-32 thd, 1" length, button head bolt (Again this is practically an industry standard)
Velocity adjustment bolt - 1/4-20 thd, 7/8" length, cap head bolt

You can buy exactly the parts you want at Bolt Depot

[MrCoffee]

Originally Posted by sdawg

I'm just curious, what do you prefer about the pro-lite? I believe that two key differences between the markers are:

- different valve design

- air on the pro-lite is routed through the grip. If I recall from the one I used as a rental, a part of the metal air hose also functions as the trigger guard.

Of course, it could just be a personal preference for no particular reason...

Personally I don't prefer the ProLite, or the Pro-AM (Can any of you remember that far back? ) But I do prefer them (Pro-Lite/Pro-Carbine/Pro-AM) to the currently Tipps for woodsball.

You touched on it in your review, and I have to agree, for woodsball/scenario they are a great marker. I hate the front foregrips on 99% of the markers out there today when I am in the woods.

I dont currently own a Pro-Carbine, but it is on my list of markers to get. We have a local hardware store that still sells them, has them in stock, and one of these days I will grab one, NIB.

Nice write up, thanks for taking the time to share it with us.
MrC

[HP_Lovecraft]

Basically the 68-Carb had the liquid valve, and the Pro-Carb had the "All Weather" valve.

"All Weather" meaning the cup-seal is supposed to be "pressure balanced", meaning if the temp goes up, and pressure goes up, more direct pressure holds the cupseal, so the FPS remains about the same.
So, in theory, you don't need the liquid to get the benefits.

Nick

[Wycke]

Originally Posted by HP_Lovecraft

Basically the 68-Carb had the liquid valve, and the Pro-Carb had the "All Weather" valve.

"All Weather" meaning the cup-seal is supposed to be "pressure balanced", meaning if the temp goes up, and pressure goes up, more direct pressure holds the cupseal, so the FPS remains about the same.
So, in theory, you don't need the liquid to get the benefits.

Nick

By "all weather valve", do you mean the CVX valve? I thought all Carbines (68 or the Pro/ variety) used the CVX valve? Were there different types of CVX valves? I have an old ProLite which I love to death, but rarely use anymore. I also will be getting a 68-Carbine shortly and was hoping that will be a bit more efficient and consistent than the ProLite (which were the biggest-touted advantages of the CVX valve when it came out).

-Chad

[Chappy]

Very early 68-carbs didn't use the CVX valve, but most did, as well as all of the procarbs. Prolites had a completely different valve altogether. Wycke, if the 68 carb comes with ss braided hose, it probably has a cvx valve. If it has the hardline, it might have the pre-cvx valve.

[BlindeSeher]

Rock the Pro-Carb! Personally, I love the "combat" foregrip. Gives the guns some presence.

Chappy, you're from P-Burg? I spent ten years in Easton. Go Red Rovers!

[Chappy]

Originally Posted by BlindeSeher

Chappy, you're from P-Burg? I spent ten years in Easton. Go Red Rovers!

Yup, I live in Harmony township. I grew up in Washington, went to high school in Bethlehem, lived in easton(wilson actually) for a while.

My current ProCarb was this years Father's day present I really need to post a pic in the tippmann section. Here's a link to my photo thread over at pcog:
http://procarbine.flashsplat.com/for...pic.php?t=1730