Buy, Sell, Trade

[drg]

Some parts for sale, some odd, some hard to get:



HALFBLOCK HAMMER SLUGS

What is it?
The hammer slug is an add-on weight for your sniper or autococker hammer. It was designed for halfblocks and midblocks, which experience significant hammer assembly lightening. It is made of a heavy tungsten alloy which replaces the entire weight of the cocking rod.

The hammer slug can also be used on a full-body marker as a heavy cocking rod knob, or in other applications when hammer weight could use tuning.

Why use it?

One of the first things many people notice about halfblocks and midblocks is that the spring tuning changes. This is because a half/midblock uses a slotted hammer and does not use a cocking rod. This amounts to around a 33% weight loss in the hammer assembly, which necessitates springing changes which often include a heavier mainspring or higher IVG setting. This means that cocking force requirement increases, leading to a higher LPR setting or a heavier pump stroke.

The hammer slug replaces nearly all of the lost weight* and allows a lighter spring tuning overall, leading to a lower LPR setting or a lighter pump stroke. If you are halfblocking an already tuned marker, the slug can help keep retuning to a minimum.

* Halfblock hammer + slug = 97-98% of the weight of a stock 2k+ hammer + stock cocking rod



How do I use it?
Simply screw the slug into the back of the halfblock hammer and re-assemble. You don't even have to remove the hammer to do this. Blue loctite is recommended to prevent loosening.

For use as a cocking rod knob, remove the current knob, transfer the set screw from inside the current knob into the slug, and screw the slug back onto the cocking rod. Tighten the set screw to lock it down. Blue loctite may be used if loosening is an issue. For ultimate mass, a second slug can be used internally by cutting extra threads on the cocking rod.

NOTE: The halfblock slug is not compatible with midgeted guns (shortened bottom tubes) or guns with hammers that don't have cocking rod threading. They are designed for guns with IVGs (not dialer-style adjusters).

Price
$10.99 each, shipped within the US.

Please let me know if you plan to use the slug on a full-size cocker.

MQ VALVE PILOT SEALS



These are the urethane "dot" seals for mQ valve pilot assemblies. In my experience this is the #1 wear part in an mQ valve. Sometimes the new 90 durometer (black) seals can leak as well. These are 80 durometer seals (natural color).

What are the symptoms of a bad pilot seal?

The primary indicator is a leak in the area of the gripframe. It may seal at a lower pressure, but then be unable to seal at higher/operating pressures. There is no leak down the barrel, that is not associated with the pilot seal. If the leak is extreme, you may hear a "kazoo" like noise. The valve likely will fire even with a pilot leak.

How do I change the pilot seal?

The pilot assembly is part of the solenoid assembly (the back part of the valve, it is red on mQ2s).

For mQ1s you remove the solenoid from the pilot/orifice plate assembly by loosening the tiny set screw in the side. For mQ2s you unscrew the solenoid halves. You will see the pilot plunger. Pull it out, take off the spring and white shim if there is one, then remove the old pilot seal.

If it is difficult to remove you can soak it in acetone for a bit, it is superglued on. When it is removed, clean the surface if there is any glue left over with sandpaper, or I like to use a razor.

Then superglue the new seal in place. Don't use TOO much superglue, you don't want it to spill over the edges if at all possible.

Reassemble the pilot/solenoid and reinstall. Avoid the temptation to open the solenoid assembly again once it is assembled; opening it again will shorten the seal's life.

Price
$4.99 for 3 seals, shipped within the US.

More parts later.

All sales are Paypal only. Contact me for international shipping.

[808raoul]

PMing you Drg.

[drg]

Bump.

[drg]

Bump.

[drg]

Bump.

[drg]

Added some info to the top post on mQ pilot seals.

[drg]

All orders shipped out.

[drg]

Bump.

[Twigz]

I bought one of drg's hammer slugs for my karni. I wasn't expecting much but for $8.99, it was worth a try. I received it 3 days later (he was shipping from hawaii to NC) and installed it in my marker. The CCM midblock hammer that I had in my karni weighed 1.4oz without the slug and 2.1oz with the slug (stock WGP hammer is 1.4oz)! That's a 50% gain.

I filled up my tank and loaded up my hopper to see what kind of results I could get. Initially I didn't notice that much of a difference. I had my IVG 3-3.5 turns in before the slug and with it it was at around 2.5 with the slug. I was curious to see if I could get better results so I played with the reg a bit. I back the IVG out to 1 turn in where the marker was shooting about 225-230 with a little bit of play I got the marker to shoot up to 270-275 with CCM spring and the IVG 1 turn in! I have owned a couple CCM markers (S5, S6) and shot the T2 as well as countless other snipers and I can honestly say that this thing shoots smoother and with a light pump stroke than any of those!

Needless to say that this is the best 8.99 that I have EVER spent.

If you were considering getting one of these but weren't sure it they were worth it, GET ONE! Even if your results aren't as good as mine I promise you won't be disappointed!

Oh, and to top it all off he included a HawaiiPB.com sticker in the package which is going to be put on my hopper. I love free stickers.

Thanks a ton, drg!

[pump]

wtf i put this on the back of my cocking rod and it did nothing!!!!!!
my MQ valve didnt get any increase of FPS and my IVG is in the same spot