Paintball

[Walrus]

EDIT: Please do not read this as me being upset. I am just relaying some history...

Wollffy I can guarantee that the tank I sold you is an anti-siphon as I am the one who installed it again when I was working at Hobby-Town as the paintball tech. When I originally bought the tank in '97 I watched as they installed the anti-siphon right in front of me (Anonym can witness to this as he was standing beside me). When I started working at Hobby-Town 5 years ago as the paintball tech we had some requests for some anti-siphon tanks so I made some anti-siphon tubes and replaced the one in my tank so I could show the others how it works and how they are installed. You won't hear anything if you shake it and like everyone else said the only way to see it is if you take the valve off the tank. Anti-siphons are not "labled" as such, but there is generally a mark on the tank to indicate the orientation. Since the orientation of this valve to the ASA I was using happened to be the burst disk I did not make a mark on the tank. The anti-siphons I made where made from brass compression fittings and brass tubing (mmmmm...brassy goodness...). I oriented the valve in the ASA on my Typhoon at the time, installed the anti-siphon on the valve, bent the tube appropriately, crimped the open end to prevent liquid from easily entering the tube, and installed the tank onto the valve. I have since used the tank off and on for the 5 years with no issue as long as I remembered where the anti-siphon was oriented when using this tank on other markers (Impulse, Mags, Cockers, and Blazers).

I still have the old anti-siphon that I removed from the tank as well as one additional of the new ones I made incase I wanted to use it on another tank. If you would like to see pics of these and how they are installed on a valve to be oriented with the ASA I am more than happy to do so, but I will not have a tank to screw on the valve to show you the finished product.

[Wollffy]

Josh, no problem at all my man you are a great seller/ communicator. I am just learning and askin questions.

[Railgun]

Hey Walrus, or anyone else, does the crimp make that much of a difference?

I just did two of my own tanks and I made the tube long enough that it touches the side about 1/3 of the way down the side from the top of the inner chamber. I figured this would help to avoid liquid intake if I happen to tip if forward to shoot down out of a tower or similar. Am I on the right track?

If the crimp answer is "yes" I guess I'll be taking mine apart again.... glad I only used the blue loctite and not much of it...

[Walrus]

Although the tube touches the inside of the tank, it is important to make the end of the tube small enough to allow the air through but not to allow the liquid back through "easily." But you also must remember that liquid also has to come through it when filling the tank so you have to keep it large enough to allow this. I have seen some that have about a 1/8" or less opening. Sometimes just sqashing the end to make it less of a wide open hole for liquid.

[Wollffy]

Aired her up today Josh, works like a champ. Thanks again.

[Railgun]

Thanks Walrus. I'll probably leave it alone for now. But if I do another I'll squish it down a bit.

[Tessaract]

can someone tell me how to take my valve off my tank? i tryed to remove my valve once with a pipe wrench and it was like impossible to get off. is it glued on? it did not have any air in it as i had completly removed the burst disk

[Brewtt]

Originally Posted by Tessaract

can someone tell me how to take my valve off my tank? i tryed to remove my valve once with a pipe wrench and it was like impossible to get off. is it glued on? it did not have any air in it as i had completly removed the burst disk

Gently heat valve/neck area with hair dryer or torch to loosen the Loktite.
Put valve in vise (NOT the tank).
Use strap wrench on bottle/tank.

Note: Valve re-installation should be done by someone with experience. Use red Loktite only. DO NOT get Loktite in the burst disk passageway.

[af895]

Originally Posted by Railgun

Hey Walrus, or anyone else, does the crimp make that much of a difference?

I just did two of my own tanks and I made the tube long enough that it touches the side about 1/3 of the way down the side from the top of the inner chamber. I figured this would help to avoid liquid intake if I happen to tip if forward to shoot down out of a tower or similar. Am I on the right track?

If the crimp answer is "yes" I guess I'll be taking mine apart again.... glad I only used the blue loctite and not much of it...

I've had personal experience with anti-siphon ("A/S") and that "crimp" you mention. I'll share the good and bad.

I squish the ends of my anti-siphon tubes only slightly. I was very aggressive about one installation and got it so tightly crimped it was extremely difficult to fill. I had to take the tank apart and cut the end off the A/S tube.

In my experience, even an un-crimped A/S tube, installed correctly and positioned on the marker so it points up, does exactly what it's supposed to: keep liquid out of the marker. If you squish the end, do it mildly, perhaps closing the tube by about half its size but no more.

If your tank is performing well and keeping liquid out, I wouldn't suggest opening it back up just to put that crimp on.