REintroduce myself also help me with phantom plans.
Last time I went paintballing was 2009, i think. Out of nowhere I want to start going again. Back then, I didn't have the luxury to play with many different guns but when I got the phantom in 2007, I fell in love with the damn thing.
I have a stock vsc phantom with palmers inline reg and I want it to shoot smoother and crisper. I haven't touched this gun since 09 so it probably needs a good cleaning and lubrication too. I've already did some research and it seems like the ssc polished/fluted hammer, polished bolt, oring TPC are the go to mods. what else is there to do? I don't mind diminishing return, I want this gun to be as smooth as it can be.
I also ran across a thread about punishers trigger job. http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/c...customs-2.html
This seems really hard to do but it is the mod I am most interested in! Does anyone know a paintball gunsmith that can do this kind of work? I wonder how much it would cost.
I would only bother with two things, other than cleaning it:
ASP Detent Mod and getting your barrel bored for Freaks (there are a few machinists here that do it, SSC has done some of mine).
If you find your TPC slipping (make sure you use the nylon screw correctly), then get the o-ring TPC. I haven't had my TPC slip in years though, but you may find otherwise. I have never seen the point of polishing the internals, the plating CCI puts on their guts works great. Fluted hammers can help if you are going to be getting into fine tuning with springs for efficiency/pressure. The stock Phantom setup is pretty damn good, I wouldn't bother messing with it.
If you want to make it smoother, start using it.
Well I have fun changing things and that's just the way I am. I like hearing different exhaust on cars even if they don't add any performance value. I bought a 1 of 1 punishers dual pump arm kit here from someone and I wrecked it. I really liked the pump kit but also wanted to keep my vertical air. So what did I do? I got the vertical air adapter and have someone weld it on to the base of the dual pump rods. I stripped the threads for the air line on the vertical air adapter, it leaked, I JB welded, still leak a bit. I could've had that setup with a 3.5oz because leak was really small but I refuse to stray away from stock class. So I ditched that setup. It was kinda pointless to type all that but what the heck, it is my reintroduction thread lol. I admit I was stupid back then, I might still be stupid, but I like to tinker with things, even though I have no skill for it.
The consensus I've seen on the internet about polished internals seemed to say the gun pumps smoother. Even if its a hair difference it is something I want to do.
However, more than the internals I am super interested in that punishers trigger job. Anyone know people who do custom phantom work that can do this for me?
oh yeah I forgot to thank you for your suggestions. Will the ASP detent Mod do me anything if I freak bore my barrel, use under bore sleeve, and a detent ring?
Also what is fine tuning? I have a reg, is this something I can do?
The nice thing about the ASP detent mod is that the ball will always be positioned in the same place, between the front o-ring and the bolt face when the bolt is forward. This should improve consistency. My preferred setup is ASP detents with a matched Freak insert.
You can lower the operating pressure of the Phantom, but the stock spring setup (and the entire valve) aren't really suited for it. I have had success running the Phantom around 500 psi or so. However, without changing the powertube or valve your efficiency will likely drop.
Polished internals will certainly make the gun a bit smoother, but at the expense of durability. You will need to coat the pieces or clean/oil them more regularly. I question if polishing the internals actually help as much as people claim; the internals don't exactly fit tight in the body, or in relation to each other, to begin with. I have found that the channel the pump arm sits in, and the fit of components in this particular location, to be the biggest factor in smoothness. I have taken my internals from my like-new Phantom and put them into my Phantom with 6 years of hard use and it felt almost exactly the same. Likewise, putting the well-worn internals into my new Phantom doesn't improve much as the pump arm and channel are still very tight.
I have never worked on the trigger, other than locking down the safety, so I can't comment on the trigger job.
Tricking out Phantoms can be a LOT of fun, I encourage you to do so, but I have always personally returned to (mostly) stock setups. Have fun. :)
OP, if you're looking for another dual rod undercocking kit that you can use with a vertical asa take a look at the DesertT1 kit
get an rtr trigger assembly :D
and on another note, I'd much (MUCH!) rather get Rainman229's under cocking kit that uses a ccm pump handle over the T1 any day (especially considering you're laying out a good chunka change either way). With a few easy mods I had a nice T1 setup, but after getting to try Rainman's kit I got bummed out I had been impatient and purchased a less ideal kit...
i actually don't have a problem with the stock pump handle. Reason why i got the punishers before was for the aesthetics. I don't think any current production UC for the phantom looks nice enough for me to want. Only recently I had an idea to make the gun feel smoother but seems like I'm chasing wind here.
As for the trigger assembly, I don't know if the feel of the RTR is what I'm looking for. In the punishers trigger job the idea is to shorten and lighten the trigger pull. I'm not much of a revolver guy or real gun guy in general but I got this idea of doing a trigger job on the phantom after watching people do trigger jobs on SA revolvers for competition shooting.
I wanna try and do the trigger job myself but I'm bad at following directions, lol want to be spoon fed, I need picture tutorial or something. Maybe one day I'll sit down and try to figure it out if I want to. Right now I don't got alot of time. Going to school and work full time.
In the near future I just want to get the ASP detent mod, freak bore, polished bolt and fluted/polished hammer and see how I like it.
Yes, those simply mods you mention at the end of your post are a great starting point! Get your hands on a maddman spring kit so you can play with its efficiency, a painless 5 or 10 bucks.
I played with a friend's Garg a couple weeks ago and really dig their trigger frame. He had done something that seems similar to what you're looking for actually - short (really short) with light return. Obviously you can't change it (to my knowledge) from slide to swing trigger, so if you don't like sliding trigger that's that. However, I ordered one after playing with that Garg because I was impress how he had it setup - and the ease with which did (this guy has the understanding of a 7 year old when it comes to paintball, and wouldn't say he did it if he didn't to get "respect" points or something - in other words if he could set it up like that at home, I know it can't be too difficult).
In any case, let us know how your project goes :) good luck!
I've got three Garg triggers on my 7 phantoms! I love how smooth they are. I have no problem with the stock CCI one but the RTR one is buttery! Totally worth it! Hard to find at the moment though.
I polish my bolt and hammer as well. Does not give any extra shots but it does make the pump stroke smoother. I don't bother with the pump arm though. I also have the ASP o-ring TPC in all my markers and find it better than the nylon nut. Had one strip way back when and it was a pain to get it out. You need to leave the nylon nut in BTW when using the o-ring TPC or it can bind and the o-ring will get cut.
I also have a SSC and ASP fluted hammer. Matched with the Red main spring and a bobbed valve i get 42+ shots on a 12 gram in nice Hawaiian weather. This is also with a Freak kit though. Without one I get 40+ shots.
I have the ASP mod in 3 markers. Love it! But the smallest paint will roll once in a while. Worth the money as well.
Thanks for the input! First thing I'm going to do next week after finals is to order all my parts. I will do an efficiency 12gram test once I get my reg and tpc position dialed in.
Isn't Red main spring intended for higher PSI and blue for lower PSI? Are you running high PSI? I don't feel like shooting 40+ balls to test out each mainspring. Atleast not in one day. What mainspring should I use for 600psi? Just looking for any info I can so I spend less time fiddling with **** once I get the parts.
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