Paintball

[russc]

I've pirated this from rec.sport.paintball, as it's a great FAQ. It's over 10 years old now, but still just as relevant.


TIPS FOR STOCK PLAYERS FAQ
Version 1.2 (28 Feb 96)
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Maintained by:
Durty Dan (durty...@corin.com)
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Inadvertent Contributions by:
Hugh "Dad" Franklin
Will "Capt Cyclops" Read (a...@issc.debbs.ndhq.dnd.ca)
"Beekeeper" Bob Lomaier (c...@freenet.carleton.ca)
Matt "Mattman" Dixon (c...@freenet.carleton.ca)
(and basically the rest of the Canadian Contingent)
Randy Kamiya (pbindus...@earthlink.net)
Glenn Palmer (wesp...@cris.com)
Intentional Contributions By:
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E-Mail submissions should be entitled Tips For Stock Players FAQ
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INTRODUCTION
FAQ# 1 WHAT ARE YOUR RECOMMENDED STOCK CLASS PAINTGUNS?
FAQ # 2 WHAT ARE THE NECESSARY MODS FOR SHERIDAN STOCK CLASS PAINTGUNS?
FAQ # 3 HOW DO I GET IMPROVED CO2 EFFICIENCY FOR ALL PAINTGUNS?
FAQ # 4 WHAT ABOUT SHOULDER STOCKS?
FAQ # 5 WHAT ABOUT FAST PUMPING -- WHILE USING YOUR SHOULDER STOCK?
FAQ # 6 WHAT ABOUT PUMPING WHEN YOU'RE LYING ON YOUR STOMACH?
FAQ # 7 HOW CAN I HAVE QUICK RELOADS AND 12 GRAM CHANGES?
FAQ # 8 WHAT S THE BEST WAY OF TAKING ADVANTAGE OF YOUR OPPONENT?
FAQ # 9 GOT SOME SHOOTING TRICKS?
FAQ # 10 WHAT IS DURTY DAN'S FIRST RULE OF POSITIONS?
FAQ # 11 HOW DO I MAKE EVERY SHOT COUNT?
FAQ # 12 IS TEAMWORK MORE ESSENTIAL IN STOCK CLASS?
FAQ # 13 IS LUCK IMPORTANT?
FAQ # 14 HOW CAN I BE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY?
FAQ# 15 WHO ARE THE STOCK GUN MANUFACTURERS?
CONCLUSION
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INTRODUCTION
With the growing popularity of stock class, I decided to include this
in my growing collection of FAQs. I learned most of these trick playing way
back in 1984, because Stock was pretty much all we had. Newer players never
had the chance to play this way, many "cut thier teeth" on field rental semis.
It's surprising how many players never even played with a pump. In my day you
gradually worked up. A "stock" gun first, then a pump and then a semi. Not so
anymore
So I decided to pass on a few things, to give you an advantage over
your peers. (At least the ones who haven't read this FAQ.)
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FAQ # 1 WHAT ARE YOUR RECOMMENDED STOCK CLASS PAINTGUNS?
Now, before I start this, I've compiled this list from personal
experience and common sense. You must also remember, it's not the paintgun
that makes the player, it's the PLAYER that makes the PAINTGUN.

AUTHOR S NOTE: IF A PARTICULAR STOCKGUN HASN'T MADE THE LIST, IT DOESN'T
MEAN IT'S NOT A GOOD PAINTGUN. I JUST HAVEN'T HAD THE CHANCE TO PLAY WITH IT,
COME UP AGAINST ONE IN A GAME, OR HAVE HEARD LITTLE ABOUT THEM.
User input is desired on other stock class paintguns

Here (in no particular order) are my recommendations:
1. SHERIDAN P68 SC. This paintgun is accurate, and you have twice as much
barrel and 5 more shots available to you over the PGP (which I also recommend).
2. COMPONENT CONCEPTS STOCK CLASS PHANTOM. There are a great many
accessories for this paintgun. Also, if you already own a direct feed Phantom,
you can save some money and buy the conversion kit.
3. Speaking of conversion kits, if you have a TASO pump-gun or a Pre-1989
Bushmaster, you can get a stock class receiver from TASO for conversion. Both
the TASO and CCI kits are VERY user friendly and easily installed.
4. Although a little pricey, I fully recommend the stock class paintguns
made by PALMER'S PURSUIT SHOP. I recently had a direct feed Sheridan paintgun
converted to stock. It is extremely accurate. Not only that, but with the
special hammer I've installed, I get good gas economy. VERY important for
stock class, when you're using little 12 grams. My Palmer's Stockgun (I call
the "Intimidator") is exceedingly efficient. The first shot goes over the
chronograph at 280 feet per second (fps), the twentieth shot goes over at 260
fps. (No word of a lie. I have witnesses.) When it's turned down to 230 fps,
for indoor play, it's like I'm playing with constant air! Like I said, it's
pricey, but if you have an old Sheridan pump around, for around $200.00 you can
get a stock tube put on it, have it performance tuned and nickel plated.
The nickel plating not only makes your paintgun more durable, it looks
really cool. As my buddy Stewart says, "It's better to LOOK good, than to BE
good."
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FAQ # 2 WHAT ARE THE NECESSARY MODS FOR SHERIDAN STOCK CLASS PAINTGUNS?
Okay, you own a PGP or a P68 SC, I'm going to tell you how to get all you
can out of these great little paintguns. (I am a devoted Sheridan disciple,
and although I own Nelson based paintguns, I prefer the Sheridans, in case you
haven't noticed.) On with the modifications.
1. User Installable Devices.
a. You'll need a better twelve gram plug. Fourteen turns with a
standard Sheridan plug doesn't cut it. Pick up a Fasst Change, and make your
life easier.
b. Also, to make reloading quicker, get a tube extender. Some tube
extenders also allow you keep a tube in the paintgun for an extra 10 rounds.
c. Another necessary mod is a rear plug velocity adjuster.
d. All three (Fasst Change, tube extender and velocity adjuster) are
available form TASO, and are VERY affordable.
2. Machinist work.
a. Take the hammer and bring it to a machinist, and have him turn it
down in the centre to lighten it. For the reasons why, keep reading (it's FAQ
# 3).
3. Custom Shop Ideas.
a. With Sheridan paintguns, you have to do a "priming shot" to puncture
the twelve gram, Sheridan owners will know what I mean. It is NOT strong
enough to propel a ball at any tactically sound distance. This minor
inconvenience can be eliminated by an Insta-pierce, then the Sheridan works
like every other twelve gram paintgun, tighten the knob and a fixed pin pierces
the twelve gram. I don't deem this absolutely necessary, because an adept
"Sheridanite" can change twelve grams so fast you'd think he had an illegal
drop-out slot. It's just nice to have. (One less thing to worry about.)
b. Performance tuning is also a good idea, you want to squeeze all the
shots you can out of a twelve gram. At first I was a little sceptical about
the performance difference, but the difference is really quite phenomenal. All
these mods can be done (and very well, I might add) by Palmer's Pursuit Shop.
They've been working on Sheridan based paintguns for over 10 years.
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FAQ # 3 -- HOW CAN I GET IMPROVED CO2 EFFICIENCY FOR ALL PAINTGUNS?
1. Get, or have made, a lighter hammer. You can get lighter hammers for
Nelson based paintguns. (I think I&I S Ports still has them.) Sheridan based
paintguns must have the hammer lightened by a competent machinist. Don't try
doing it yourself. (It's not that it's dangerous, the main reason is because
the hammers are made of tempered steel. If you do it yourself, you're going to
be filing until the end of time.) Other non-Nelson/non-Sheridan hammer systems
may have to be machined. Most people, who know, will tell you that the
Nightmare (by Brass Eagle) is a "gas pig". The hammer is too heavy. Lighten
the hammer and you'll have a very gas efficient paintgun.
2. What's the big deal about lightened hammers?
a. First the dynamics behind it.
i. When the paintgun is fired, the hammer (under spring power)
strikes the valve and opens it, allowing a measured amount of CO2 out and
kicking the ball out of your paintgun.
ii. Well, it doesn't stop moving. The spring in the valve, closes
the valve (sealing it up) and it pushes the hammer away. The hammer spring
forces the hammer back against the valve.
iii. This is called "rebound".
iv. If the hammer is too heavy (as most hammers are) the weight
allows the hammer to strike the valve harder when it rebounds (kinetic energy
and all that). Some paintguns, because of heavy hammer rebounding, will use
CO2 for another half of a shot. So for every two shots, you're loosing one
shot of CO2, and that extra "rebounding CO2" does nothing but go out your
barrel (your ball is gone by the time the hammer rebounds).
b. A light hammer won't rebound hard enough to reopen the valve. This
is due to the fact that the lighter something is, the less kinetic energy it
has, compared to something heavier travelling at the same speed.
c. When having your hammer turned down, don't take off too much metal
and ruin the hammer. (Do it with an EXTRA hammer. That way, if the hammer is
rendered unusable, you still have a hammer for your paintgun, and you can still
play.)
3. I've suggested lightened hammers to Glenn Palmer, via e-mail on the
InterNet. I don't know if they're considering it. If enough people badger him
about it, maybe he'll start making them. Pester Carter Machine, too. Squeaky
wheel gets the oil, you know.
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FAQ # 4 WHAT ABOUT SHOULDER STOCKS?
Officially, shoulder stocks are allowed in stock class rules, according
to the Stockgun Player's Association (SGPA). (Well, actually, there just isn't
a rule against them.) They are an excellent way to help you improve your
accuracy. A shoulder stock helps stabilize the paintgun when you're firing. I
put a Crosman airgun stock on my stockgun. Now, instead of missing opponents
by feet, I miss them by fractions of an inch. (The paintgun is PRECISE,
accuracy is a product of the person shooting it.) I like the Crosman stocks
because you can put an elastic "stock sock" on them to hold five tubes or five
CO2 for faster loading. Metal bottom line stocks are fine, but you can't put a
stock sock on them. Oh, well. I still strongly recommend a stock for any
stockgun that doesn't readily fit in a holster.
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FAQ # 5 WHAT ABOUT FAST PUMPING -- WHILE USING YOUR SHOULDER STOCK?
If you have a Nelson based stockgun chances are, you'll have to rock it
forward (barrel down) to drop a ball into the chamber. On Sheridans, you have
to rock them back (barrel up) to drop a ball. (If you don't have to tilt your
paintgun to load, you don't have a stock class paintgun -- cheater.)
Be that as it may. When you have the paintgun to your shoulder it is
sometimes awkward to tilt the paintgun. Here's a trick, as you pump, drop (or
raise) your shoulder, instead of tilting the paintgun. (On Sheridan paintguns,
drop your shoulder slightly. On Nelsons, raise your shoulder.) You'd be
surprised how well it works. Also, it's easier to keep your sights on your
target.
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FAQ # 6 WHAT ABOUT PUMPING WHEN YOU'RE LYING ON YOUR STOMACH
It's kind of hard to "play the trombone" when you're on your stomach.
Instead of moving the pump and holding the paintgun still, do it the other way
around. Your weight is usually on the arm supporting the pump, it's easier to
shift your weight off of your shooting arm and shove the paintgun forward.
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FAQ # 7 HOW CAN I HAVE QUICK RELOADS AND 12 GRAM CHANGES
Have an area on your harness, or paintgun, where you can have immediate,
non-fumbling access the desired tube or twelve gram. You should have enough
paint and 12 grams in this area to last you for most, if not all, of one game.
On the shoulder stock of my stockgun I have a stock sock with loops for five
tubes and 6 twelve grams. With the Intimidator's (my paintgun s original name
before the Palmer s stock conversion) twenty shot tube full and a fresh twelve
gram in the paintgun, I carry 70 rounds and seven 12 grams, on my paintgun.
All with easy access. That's more than enough for one game. (Especially since
I only last about five minutes.)
If it wasn't for the fact that our club plays a lot of games
back-to-back (not going back to the camp between games) causing me to bring
extra paint to replenish supplies, I wouldn't need a harness at all. When
you're just about ready to reload, or change, pull out the desire tube or
twelve gram. Don't wait until you actually need it. Don't empty your
paintgun, or use the last shot out of the twelve gram before grab a tube or 12
gram. Also, and this is VERY important: NEVER DUMP A SPENT TWELVE GRAM UNTIL
YOU HAVE A FULL ONE IN YOUR HAND. If you have no air, and you're fumbling
around for a 12 gram, you're going to be in big trouble if someone rushes you.
Gravity is your friend. As my buddy Hugh says, "Gravity: It's not just
a rule, it's a LAW." Tip your paintgun to drop a spent twelve gram and the
other way to insert a twelve gram. The same is true for reloading.
Save a few empty 12 grams for changing practice at home. ENSURE YOU ARE
USING EMPTY TWELVE GRAMS AND THE PAINTGUN IS UNLOADED. If you're going to do
it in front of the TV, make sure the drapes are drawn. Don't want to frighten
the neighbours, do we? (Wait until the kids go to bed, too.) Be very careful,
and remember, I assume no responsibility for injury or damage caused by
stupidity or careless actions.
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FAQ # 8 WHAT S THE BEST WAY OF TAKING ADVANTAGE OF YOUR OPPONENT?
Move when your opponent fires. It's a stockgun after all. You and your
opponent have to cock for every shot, take advantage of that. When your
opponent is taking to reload/change, use the time to move on him. Also count
his shots. If you can tease him into shooting around 15 shots, you can take
more chances moving on him. The reason for this is that after 15 or more
shots, velocity is greatly reduced (if he doesn't change 12 grams). Chances
are, unless it hits your paintgun or mask, the ball is going to bounce when it
hits you.
Watch for wiggling elbows this flapping motion of the arms is usually an
indication that your opponent is frigging with something.
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FAQ # 9 DO YOU HAVE ANY SHOOTING TRICKS?
As a matter of fact, yes I do.
1. Okay, you've got an opponent popping up from behind cover (a bunker or
what-have-you) and giving you grief. Here's how you draw a bead on him,
without the aid of his presence. Watch here he pops up, and make note what was
directly behind him. Line your sights up on that object, so when he pops up,
you're lined up on him. It s an old trick I learned on my Advance Sniper
Course when I was in the infantry. (2nd Battalion, the Royal Canadian Regiment,
should you be concerned with those things.)
2. When shooting at an opponent who is popping in an out, aim as close to
the cover as you can. The reason for this is that if you aim at their elbow,
for example, they'll pull in when they hear your shot. By the time the
paintball gets there, they're halfway behind cover and the elbow you were
aiming at isn't there anymore. If you aim close to the cover, and he moves
when he hears your shot, when he's halfway behind cover, your paintball will
connect.
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FAQ # 10 WHAT IS DURTY DAN'S FIRST RULE OF POSITIONS?
Nobody actually asked this question, but I thought I d throw it in.

If you can't hit your opponent from your present position, MOVE.

If you've waisted four shots, with no effects, MOVE. Movement is in
three steps. Shoot, re-cock, move. Moving and re-cocking can be combined.
(Unless you're like me and can't walk and chew gum at the same time.) Stock is
a game of fast movement, because opponents can't pin each other down with great
streams of paint. (You don't have a lot of time to move between shots when
they can fire eight per second.) That's why I like stock. You actually PLAY,
not just shoot.
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FAQ # 11 HOW CAN I MAKE EVERY SHOT COUNT
In Stock Class, you have to make every shot count. The reason for this
is simple, you have limited paint and limited air to work with. Due to this
fact, you have to spend a lot of time on the shooting range. Know where you
have to put your sights when you've gone through about half of your CO2. Know
how many good shots you can get out of a twelve gram. (Velocities at or lower
230 fps usually bounce on targets over 25 feet away. Unless you're playing
indoors, where most of your opponents are 25 feet away, or less.) If you
can hit a 9 inch pie plate, at 100 feet, 9 out of ten times, it'll be easy to
hit an opponent's paintgun or other hard area, when you're low on CO2. There
are very few hard spots on the human body (fewer on some than others). If you
are accurate enough, it won't matter if you're on the last shot your twelve
gram will give you.
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FAQ # 12 IS TEAMWORK ESSENTIAL IN STOCK CLASS?
Teamwork is essential in Stock Class. Not only is it good to have an
extra pair of eyes and ears, but it gives you more firepower. You'll really
need someone to cover you, when your reloading or changing, it's just good
sense.
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FAQ # 13 IS LUCK IMPORTANT?
I chose this to be number thirteen, on purpose. Sure, in Stock Class,
skill is essential for the game. You have to be a good shot and a quick
thinker. You can also take more chances. Mainly because your opponent can't
sends tons of paint your way when you move. For the same reason, pointmen
(players out front) can be a little more relaxed. They don't have to
anticipate multiple impacts from an opponent who manages to get the drop on
them. Also, the first shot usually misses (but don't count on that).
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FAQ # 14 HOW CAN I BE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY?
Pick up your spent twelve grams and drop them in your recycling bin. The
metal can be recycled. In some areas, recyclers pay for scrap metal, save them
up all year and turn them in for money (to buy more twelve grams).
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FAQ # 15 WHO ARE THE STOCK CLASS PAINTGUN MANUFACTURERS?
In alphabetical order, they are
-----
Component Concepts, Inc
10240 Nimbus Ave, Suite L-8
Portland, OR 97223
P 503.684.9262
(Stock Class Phantoms and Conversion kits for direct feed Phantoms)
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Carter Machine Products
2013 Commonwealth Ave, Unit F
Fullerton, CA
P 714.449.0821
(Custom made Nelson-based stock guns, lots of nifty options)
-----
Nelson Paint Co
48 Industrial Parke Cres
Sault Ste Marie, ON P6B JP2
P 705.759.4680
(Nelspot 007 and accessories for same)
-----
National Survival Games
P.O. Box 1439
New London, NH 03257
P 603.735.6165
(Splatmaster -- May no longer exist))
-----
PMI (US)
1935 Techny Rd, Unit 6
North Brook, IL 60062
P 708.272.4765
PMI (Can)
875 Foster Ave, Unit 107
Windsor, ON
P 519.972.5448
(Sheridan Paintguns PGP & P68 SC)
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Palmer's Pursuit Shop
3951 Development Dr #3
Sacramento, CA
P 916.923.9676
wesp...@cris.com
(Custom made Sheridan-based stock guns)
-----
TASO East
21 Production Place, #9
Gilford, NH
P 603.293.9393
TASO West
15950 Downey Ave
Paramount, CA 90723
P 310.531.0515
(Nelson-based stock guns and Nelson-based stock conversion kits)
-----
W'Orr Games Products
13517 Alonda Blvd
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
P 310.407.2898
(Stock Class Sniper)
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CONCLUSION
When playing Stock Class you will notice that it takes less time in the
morning to get set up. The paintguns are more player friendly . (While some
are technologically ADVANCED, they are not technologically COMPLICATED.) You
don't have to carry that much paint and air. Sure, twelve grams are not as
economical as constant air, but the money you save on paint will more than make
up for it.
Stock is fun, and it's the purest, most original form of paintball, the
way it was meant to be played. I hope this FAQ helps you be that much better
at it.
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Play Hard! Play Fast! Play Safe! Play Stock!
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Copyright Durty Dan 1996
This FAQ may contain material previously published by the Maintainer and is
protected under Copyright laws.
Reproduction permitted for personal use only.
--
b c'n u . . .
---
DURTY DAN McQuinn-Leger
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA

[Raspberry Lemonade]

Great Advice

[Paint Rocker]

Very Helpful, Thanks!

[Shade]

I agree, great advice.