Museum

[4G010H3R0]

hi all,

Im about at my wits end. Ive got a Tippmann SMG. I worked fine last time I used it and now its leaking out the front of the valve(down the barrel).

If I take the marker apart(leaving the internal line connected to the valve) it doesnt leak. I will only leak when fully assembled. Im so lost. Ive taken it apart like 50 times and put it back together and its only leaking when its all together. The asa's fine. when the asa and the line are connected to the valve its fine. I can put the valve back and put the pins back and its still fine. Once the hammer and everything is back I connect the tank again and it leaks. I cant leave the tank connected the whole time cause the Burst Disk gets in the way.

Any suggestions?
time is sorta a factor. I had this in the F/S section; sold it but wanted to double check before I sold it and it now leaks. I can refund the money the buyer seems understanding but Id preffer to get it back to tip top shape where it was at before it sat on my wall. LOL it developed this from not being used I guess.

Thanks
Tom

[snaparen]

your valve spring is weak. when you put the drive spring back in it is slightly pushing on the valve. The valve is then pushing on the power tube, with a weak valve spring it is holding it open slightly.

If you cock it before airing it up does it leak?

[Echo]

Originally Posted by snaparen

If you cock it before airing it up does it leak?

This is what I was going to say. Check this, if the leak persists, open the valve up by removing the snap rings and check the seals. I believe you can still buy the valve internals.

[Acidpaintball]

Once it is back up and working There is a group looking for SMG players (.50, .60, and .68) for LL5.

[Pyrate Jim]

I've had that problem.

For me, it was a simple as having the mainbody end-cap in too far.
(the end cap pushed the body tube in, the body tube pushed the valve body forward to the point the forward cup seal was pressed open)
I backed it out a couple of turns and the problem went away.
The SMG uses a reciprical valve, it needs to be able to move forward and back. If you tighten that back cap holding the hammer spring down too far, the valve body cannot slide back far enough to close the front valve pin.
It wasn't the hammer against the valve causing my problem, it was the steel tube of the mainbody pressing the valve too far forward.
There should be a set-screw in the top of the main-body housing (the casting, not the steel sleeve) right in the rear sight. That lets you lock down the end cap when it's not turned in all the way.

[4G010H3R0]

yea I Figured it out. Thanks for the help guys.

it was a couple of things. The Hamer tube was a bit too tight and hex nut part that connects to the valve was getting pushed by the valve holding pin. I tightend the nut up a bit and it was no longer being pushed by the pin so the leak stoped. Fired about 100balls through it before I packaged it up. Didnt run into the issue again so all seemed well.

Appreciate the help tho guys. Gawd I love this forum *thumbs up*
Proud to be a greenie