|Old Gun Tech Specific how-to's on fixing and tuning in those old guns|
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|10-11-2012, 11:54 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Canada- toronto
nel-spot 007 stuck hammer\bolt
Finnaly got my hands on a nel-spot 007, test fired it, everything worked great, dissasembled and polished everything.
when i put it back together the bolt seemed is seized
i have tried everything that i can think of but nothing seems to work
its and older 007 with the quick clean mod done to the bottom of the body
the bolt and hammer move fine when there is no spring in it
it feels like the bolt is moving on an angle when pumping causing it to jam
before fulling cocking
any ideas would be wonderful
|10-12-2012, 09:07 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Saugus MA
OK, this is why "anti-kink" internals were invented. Because the sear latches the bolt in one place, the pressure from the compressed spring causes the bolt and hammer to seperate opposite the sear. This seperation causes drag and in exterme cases, inability to move the bolt/hammer assembly into "battery". You'll need to unlatch the sear from the bolt, and remove the internals. You could use a weaker main spring, but I reccomend aftermarket internals. Phantom, LAPCO or used AGS/TASO will do nicely. Plus you;ll get the added feature of adjustable velocity internals. Dan Bacci (Welcome to BacciPaintball.com) should have what you need if you're looking for "classic" parts. Titus (Celanis Paintball) could get you a set of Phantom internals which with a little modification would change this old tired Nelly into a real heartbreaker. It's amazing what a 3 hole valve tube can do to a Nelly, not to mention a set of refined internals.
Good Luck, post or PM me if'n you need more help.
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|10-13-2012, 01:41 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Immune to sales tactics.
Join Date: Dec 2006
The Shootist is correct.
My preference is CCI Phantom internals as they're ubiquitous. You'll need to swap the sear from the Nelspot internals to the Phantom hammer. (use a tack hammer and drift or, in a pinch, an appropriately sized nail, with the tip flattened to create a makeshift drift)
A Phantom powertube is about as high flowing as it gets so that's a must as well.
The benefit to the Phantom internals (aside from everything) is the threaded hole on the side of the bolt that usually has a nylon grub screw links perfectly to the Nelspot cocking arm bolt. Just use some teflon tape on the TPC to keep it from moving, since you won't have the nylon grub screw anymore.
Basically, $30 in parts and you've got a completely modernized gun. My time is worth more than $30/hr so I didn't waste time trying to salvage the awful stock internals.
Last edited by CJOttawa; 10-13-2012 at 01:46 PM.
|10-16-2012, 12:40 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Walking without rhythm
When swaping the sears, you will have to file away a small bit on the nelly sear. There is too much 'meat' near the hole where the sear pin goes. It wont take much and is easy to do by hand but is needed to let the sear line up properly.
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|10-18-2012, 06:35 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
the CCI phantom internals are also plated to prevent rust, and reduce friction. the powertube is stainless steel and the valve/powertube is a very reliable design while also providing good flow/performance and shot count per cartridge. (this is why we use them in the Retro 7... and they are produced in regular quantity)
|11-24-2012, 08:24 PM||#8 (permalink)|
no, I'M sorry
Join Date: Oct 2006
you might have problems with phantom sears unless you swap them out to your nelspot internal sears.
i have lapco internals in mine, didn't need to change anything about them, so those would be another option for you.
actually, never had kinking troubles with stock internals either...
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