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Old Gun Tech Specific how-to's on fixing and tuning in those old guns

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Old 12-24-2012, 10:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Nelson unibody valve body

I picked up a nelson unibody (back bottle) from titus and got it all torn apart. For the project I have in mind, I would like to utilize the in-grip 12g option. What do I need to make this work? The valve body from a 007? Does it come with the pierce pin assembly, or do I have to collect a few parts for this to work?
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The pierce pin is a separate piece. The valve will either have it on it or not. Other than that if your valve nut threads match, you should be good to go.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks! Ya, I took a stroll over to bacci's store, but I just wanted to make sure there was nothing else necessary. But all his valves are in poor shape. Now I must track down another one!
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Old 12-25-2012, 02:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Many of the old nelspot valve bodies are in bad condition, they are very old. They can be painted, or better yet powder coated.
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The main problem was that the nelspot valve bodies are just paint over steel. Unless they're really pitted they're pretty easy to clean up and re-do.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I am going over the entire gun, just the ones on bacci's site looking awfully beat up. Potentially heavily pitted. It's hard to say without seeing them in person.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have an old nelson valve body that is in good shape that can support a 12gram, as the outside body isn't pittted and the threading is in good condition, minus the one fact that I man missing the round collar around where the pierce pin is as shown below.


The valve body near the top right corner of the picture doesn't have the collar and didn't have the collar when I got the marker from my uncle. I was trying to find a replacement valve but found nothing so I went bottle back.

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Old 12-31-2012, 05:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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That last post is actually the perfect segway into my post.

The earlier ones didn't have any seal around the pierce pin. I've never had a problem with them leaking but I don't believe anyone even Nelson has any more if that one breaks (which I have only heard of happening once) This will lead to one possible compatibility issue.

Since there was no seal, and no collar for a seal, the frames didn't have a hole big enough to accommodate a seal going through them. Check yours, this may require some trading out or modifying of the frame.
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Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I was curious about how the stem passed through. I gotta do a bit more eyeballing, but I think a little dremel action will be needed. Also on this point, how are the grips supposed to be open quickly to replace the 12g?
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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"quickly"

One side, the left I believe but it's the side with the indent on the bottom of the pannel, has a little brass or copper bushing that the grip screw goes into, it can be popped off without unscrewing. Still not great but a lot faster than unscrewing it.
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Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
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Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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