Museum

[skx762]

OK, I have a 007 coming in the mail. I have attempted to get the old data off the crashed website, to no avail. Google allowed me to pull up the text though. Here it is (the pictures were a little fuzzy anyways if I remember).

The Nel-Spot Project

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Welcome!

I'm going to be reworking four (4) original Nel-Spot paintball markers, and cataloging it for posterity. This is just going to be a simple step by step procedure, and no fancy html. Sorry, no time.

I guess the first thing we need to do is grab our Nel-Spot

Step One requires a Philips screw driver. Underneath the gun, you'll see some Philip head screws. Remove those.

(PIC?)

Step Two After removing the three Philip screws, pump handle and pump handle bolt, the gun should easily come apart.

(PIC?)

Step Three the ASA is held in by three very small, very tiny set screws. Here's a blurry close up... So not its not your glasses.

(PIC?)

Step Four entails removing the newly unbolted ASA

(PIC?)

Step Five take apart the valve tube using a high quality Sears Robo Grip! (I did for two of the guns)

(PIC?)

Next thing you will probably want to do is replace the original valve tube. Now this is by no means needed or necessary, but more than likely the valve tube will be rusty and 15 years old. Get a new generic one from www.skanline.com OR, in my case, replace it with an Earon Carter valve tube.

(PIC?)

Step 6 is the most difficult part about rebuilding and reworking Nel-Spots. Notice this next picture:

(PIC?)

In the picture, the tube is closed off and there is no way to remove the hammer, because the sear of the hammer is sticking out. Trust me, they do not come out. Now you can use a punch and remove the sear... But putting it back together is a feat and a half. Especially in your newly fixed up gun. Be prepared for scratches galore.

Instead, we need to cut the rest of that slot. We loose a set screw hole, but we still have two left, so this isn't a problem.
I used a Dremel, and it happens to be the weapon of choice. I used the Dremel at a 45 degree to 60 Degree angle to slowly cut the slot. Started for the inside out.

We now have this:

(PIC?)

Parts are Back!
Ok.. I got all the parts back from having them powder coated. They came out very well, and this should make them more resilient from scratches during use.

(PIC?)

The first step in putting the parts back together is getting the trigger back together. This can be difficult, especially since you DON'T want to make any scratches!!
Put the trigger frame back together, trigger, and hammer in the pin that holds it all together. This will take a minute so BE patient!

(PIC?)

I dumped out my bag of parts for this gun. It's a must to keep all the parts separate. Notice the nicely polished internals. These HAD 15 years of gunk on them. Nice now.

(PIC?)

I took a Dremel tool to the barrel, and took off any excess paint that got on the inside, and then honed the barrel, and lastly, polished and cleaned out where the internals go for the best movement possible.

(PIC?)

My next step was putting back together the ASA.

(PIC?)

Then place the ASA into the main body.

(PIC?)

Then we add on the trigger frame. I found it easiest to put the front screw in first, and then the back.

(PIC?)

Don't forget to add those set screws!!! Now remember, you'll have an extra one left over because of the field strip for the internals that we made.

(PIC?)

After adding the brown grips, front and back cover... it should look something like this.

(PIC?)

Add the pump and voila!

(PIC?)


(I did take the liberty of editing a few misspelled words)

[sunyjim]

Sorry the original post was a while ago, but did you try getting in touch with Nelson Paintball?
I was working on an old nelson and inquired about specs, so i might be able to adapt some parts, they still had tons of stuff in stock! including mint Nelspot 007s! Crazy! they probably have the info you need, just email them

[jhyan]

They recently said they had mint 007's? That would be interesting. I talked to Nelson about a year ago, and they had a lot of small parts, but zero full 007's (I tried to get them to build one minus the few parts that were out of stock and sell it to me at the listed nelson price... no go). Unless they found a box that has been stashed away for some time, there are no NIB at nelson.

[B]

My inside sales girls calls me when new found parts arrive no such call recently.

[skx762]

Actually all I did was try to save the post for others to use. I could only get the text after the site crashed.

I have since built and modded my 007 to almost where I want it (more parts in the mail).

B is good for common sense info and Wevo, Bacci and Triggerhappy have squared me away with the parts I needed.

I took some pictures but not enough to match up with the text. They are "slightly" better than the originals were.



B, could you post your Nelson tuning notes here or do you already have them here on another post? Thanks.

(Never mind, I clicked the link in your sig. Work in progress??)

[skx762]

Compliments of Tallen 702




007 01 Magazine Plug (Front)
007 02 Magazine Barrel Assembly
007 02-3 Pellet Stop
007 03 Magazine Cap (Rear)
007 04 "O" Ring (Both Bolt and Valve)
007 05 Bolt
007 06 Main Spring
007 07 Hammer
007 08 Valve Tube
007 09 Valve Seat
007 11 Valve Cup Seal Assembly
007 12 Valve Spring
007 13 Rear Spacer Screw
007 14 Valve Body Assembly
007 14-1 Piercing Pin Complete
007 14-2 Pin Seal
007 15 Sear
007 16 Sear Spring
007 17 Sear Pin
007 18 Spacer Frame Assembly
007 18-3 Safety
007 18-3-1 Safety/Retainer Spring
007 18-3-2 Safety/Retainer Ball
007 18-4 Front Frame Screw
007 18-5 Rear Frame Screw
007 19 Set Screws (3)
007 20 Front Spacer Screw
007 21 Trigger Pin
007 22 Trigger
007 23 Trigger Spring
007 25/26 Enerjet Screw unit
007 28 Screw Ring
007 29 Bolt Knob
007 30 Left Grip Assembly (Brown)
007 31 Right Grip (Brown)
007 32 Grip Screw
007 35 Grip Retainer


Items out of Stock (Permanently):
007 01 Magazine Plug Front
007 02 Magazine Barrel Assembly
007 03 Magazine Cap Rear
007 11 Valve Cup Seal Assembly
007 13 Rear Spacer Screw (10-32X1-1/4"Ph.Screw)
007 14 Valve Body

Also Available:
007 PP Pistol Pump Handle (Brown)
ZZZ Challenger Barrel Sleeve
ZZZ 007 Valve Body with adapter end for C/A

The image is one from vintage rex. I'll try to post mine as soon as I can.

The parts list and stock numbers are up to date as of 01/31/07

You can call Nelson Paint Co. Toll free at 1-800-236-9278
When the operator (a nice sounding young lady) asks how to direct your call, ask for "Ken" in the Sales dept. Do NOT let her put you through to the paintball division. They are of no use. The guys at the marking-gun store are the ones with the parts.

[Tallen702]

I've got some pictures to upload so you can edit the step-by-step take down of the marker. Also Ken Draper, the store sales manager at Nelson has a few more recommendations to add in, he should be e-mailing me within the next 2 days.

-Tallen

[Buki19]

I have a very old and heavily modded Nelspot that I used when I used to Play with the Navarone. I might have a few spare parts laying around too.
I used to get about 22 good shots out of one 12 gram Co2 so I might be able to help tune your gun when you get it together.

Richard

[Tallen702]

Here's some stuff for polishing the bolt-knob:

Requirements:

• Variable-pressure chuck drill or screw gun (variable speed helps)
• 800 grit automotive wet/dry sand paper
• heavy-duty rubbing compound (turtle wax)
• Polishing Compound (turtle wax)
• Lots of paper towels
• Mineral Oil
• 20oz Mt Dew and a Cup of Easy Mac

Alright, lightly chuck the bolt-knob in the drill so as not to mar the finish or crush the threads. This takes a minimal amount of force when tightening.
Tear off a small (1"x4") strip of 800 grit sand-paper and lightly oil it with the mineral oil. Bring the drill/screwgun up to speed (slowly) and fold the sand-paper around the ball-end of the bolt-knob slowly and evenly moving it around the entire circumference of the ball to evenly sand it. Continue this until the dark color or any pitting has been eliminated.

Now, using a clean paper towel, wipe off all of the excess oil and grit. Rinse the knob under warm water and dry with another clean paper towel. Next, take another paper towel and fold it into a small rectangle (about the same size as the sand-paper was) and lightly dampen it. Lightly rub it in the red heavy-duty rubbing compound making sure not to glop it on there. Now, repeat the sanding process, this time with the rubbing compound. When the major scratch marks from the sand-paper have faded, again, rinse and dry the bolt knob.

Now, using another clean paper towel, fold it again to the proper size and dampen. Apply the white finishing compound sparingly to the paper towel. Repeat the same sanding process, this time until the bolt knob is polished to a reflective high-sheen.

Below are pictures for you to see how it works!
In the drill chuck after the 800 grit:

After the heavy duty compound:

This last one is to contrast the original color of the steel (same as the bolt) with the finished product


They say if you look hard enough at the reflection, you can see James C. Hale's face.....

[B]

Get some better pictures these are barley recognizable.